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Old 05-16-2012, 09:16 AM
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As far as I know...there are no fix for the 1S cutoff. I have several versions that I have tested....no matter how GOOD and how MUCH I charged a good lipo, it will cut off at 6 minutes or so, on boost stock and mod, on 12th scale...it does not really cutted off, it stop, and back on, then couple laps down, do it again and again....

I leave the cut off completely turned off and never have a problem again, and still haven't have a 1S lipo buffed or went bad so far...

I personally never use lipo cut off........never need it.
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Old 05-16-2012, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by sidecarphil1 View Post
just a Team Powers Dyno , it measures A draw and motor Revs

are you using a lipo? the only that i dont like using this dyno, because after few tests the battery will lose the power

i didnt find yet a good volt regulator to use with power supply, to work with 7.2v
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Old 05-17-2012, 07:54 AM
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Yeh you would probably need to source a pretty expensive lab power supply (adjustable, very high current, clean and filtered power) to do that. I know I looked at one and it cost around $1000 that could properly emulate a 3.7 or 7.4v Pack at high sudden amp draws. In the end it wasnt worth it.
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Old 05-17-2012, 09:19 AM
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I would think topping off the charge on your battery between dyno pulls would be sufficient.
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Old 05-17-2012, 12:11 PM
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Where can I find the manual to this esc? The top one

http://www.redrc.net/2007/11/speed-p...o-feigao-escs/

Is it any good? I got it in a job lot of RC stuff
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Old 05-17-2012, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by onekiwi View Post
Where can I find the manual to this esc? The top one

http://www.redrc.net/2007/11/speed-p...o-feigao-escs/

Is it any good? I got it in a job lot of RC stuff
None....but what would you like to know about this ESC? Just hook it up like the current SP ESC and calibrate the same way and see that works or not.

If it make the motor move, it is GOOD...but if you are talking about is that any good for RACING....then I would say buy a new ESC. That ESC is like 4 years old products.
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Old 05-17-2012, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Clegg View Post
Yeh you would probably need to source a pretty expensive lab power supply (adjustable, very high current, clean and filtered power) to do that. I know I looked at one and it cost around $1000 that could properly emulate a 3.7 or 7.4v Pack at high sudden amp draws. In the end it wasnt worth it.

dont need that only a good regulator... maybe the motor only draw 10A unload.
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Old 05-17-2012, 05:34 PM
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So I got a V3 17.5 and it has started to give me some issues. It shutters bad, and will just not move until I give it a push sometimes. So is this going to be a sensor board or is it a bad phase?
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Old 05-18-2012, 02:37 AM
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Any one know why the MMM 13.5 motors are taking so long to get back into stock?
cheers.
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Old 05-18-2012, 03:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Solara View Post
None....but what would you like to know about this ESC? Just hook it up like the current SP ESC and calibrate the same way and see that works or not.

If it make the motor move, it is GOOD...but if you are talking about is that any good for RACING....then I would say buy a new ESC. That ESC is like 4 years old products.

Sorry its this one at the top

Mine hasn't got the HW name on it.
Can this be upgraded?
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Old 05-18-2012, 06:11 AM
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Originally Posted by ikpthegame View Post
So I got a V3 17.5 and it has started to give me some issues. It shutters bad, and will just not move until I give it a push sometimes. So is this going to be a sensor board or is it a bad phase?
Try replacing the sensor wire (several times) first. Then move onto the sensor board on the motor. Finally, if you are still having issues, it could be the sensor port on the ESC, but that is very rare.
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Old 05-18-2012, 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by M-Technic View Post
Try replacing the sensor wire (several times) first. Then move onto the sensor board on the motor. Finally, if you are still having issues, it could be the sensor port on the ESC, but that is very rare.
It appears to me that the sensor modules are kind of fragile compared to other motors I've used. I just got a MMM 13.5 and 2 of the pins soldered to the PCB from the Hall effect board were not soldered adequately and came loose right off the bat. it seems the pins are just a tad too short and are difficult to get a good solder bond. I would say that if your motor is cogging, it's probably because of the sensor module or the cable. That's been my experience with the V3 motors.
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Old 05-18-2012, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by malcnz View Post
Any one know why the MMM 13.5 motors are taking so long to get back into stock?
cheers.
MMM's should be back in stock by the end of May or early June.
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Old 05-18-2012, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by ikpthegame View Post
So I got a V3 17.5 and it has started to give me some issues. It shutters bad, and will just not move until I give it a push sometimes. So is this going to be a sensor board or is it a bad phase?
Cogging is cause by several things...(1) ESC software mal-fucntioned (2) Motor sensor board went bad (3) sensor cable went bad (4) Sensor socket on ESC went bad...

Best way to check is use the same ESC with different motor....if it works on the other motor, then the sensor board within the motor went bad, replace with a new one.
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Old 05-18-2012, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by onekiwi View Post
Sorry its this one at the top

Mine hasn't got the HW name on it.
Can this be upgraded?
No, they are not upgradable.
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