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Old 01-10-2012, 05:49 PM
  #8716  
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Originally Posted by MarcusEngdahl View Post
sp v3 5.5 is too much for my happy trigger finger. Will i see a diffrence if i buy a 6.5 or should i buy a 7.5?

And does anyone know who has these in stock? Cant find it in stock at the biggest US/HK shops.

Tnx
Marcus
You will notice that the 6.5 and 7.5 are much easier on your "happy trigger finger". If the main straight is not too long (say 20m-30m)then you can gear and boost the 6.5 to accelerate and top speed the same as a non-boost + max can timing 4.5. I think the major difference was the 4.5 had much stronger max brakes but that was irrelevant as you should adjust for this to make sure belts aren't skipping.
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Old 01-10-2012, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by sidecarphil1 View Post
Also shim the rotor towards the sensor , at higher revs the rotor will move away from the sensor and you can get missed senses on the motor , tis drops the revs down slightly.
Phil, how much play do you ususally have after shimming?
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Old 01-10-2012, 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Ooj View Post
Phil, how much play do you ususally have after shimming?
Normally i remove the rear shim , this is about 0.5mm thick then add 1 X 0.3mm on the back of the rotor and 1 x 0.3 on the front , this gives the smallest amount of play , but ehough for warming up.

It is sometimes a lottery , i have had motors take 2 or 3 shims to remove the play and others were good , I also tried adding the 0.5mm shim to the front of the rotor , but it was a bit close to the sensor board
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Old 01-11-2012, 12:30 AM
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Originally Posted by sidecarphil1 View Post
yeah we saw this with ETS , there was some cheating b#%^rds buying 100 motors and 100 speedos then picking the quickest combo !!!!!

He was found to be cheating at the last ETS and was removed from the rankings.

BUT i have dyno'd a lot of my own motors and position of the end bell makes a huge differance , the end bell can go on 3 places and i moved it round untill i got the best RPM's this made a differance of 5000 RPM on some V3 motors , Also shim the rotor towards the sensor , at higher revs the rotor will move away from the sensor and you can get missed senses on the motor , tis drops the revs down slightly.

This is the world of 0 timing / fixed gearing we are in now in Europe
Thanks for that info, made a huge difference, even got my oldV3 screaming
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Old 01-11-2012, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Ooj View Post
You will notice that the 6.5 and 7.5 are much easier on your "happy trigger finger". If the main straight is not too long (say 20m-30m)then you can gear and boost the 6.5 to accelerate and top speed the same as a non-boost + max can timing 4.5. I think the major difference was the 4.5 had much stronger max brakes but that was irrelevant as you should adjust for this to make sure belts aren't skipping.
Tnx For Answere!
The track i race at is really small . Just have stock display so cant change boost.
What Timing on esc and Where should i be in Fdr ?
Also: Maybe i should change to Level "smooth" shouldnt this make my car esier too drive?
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Old 01-11-2012, 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by sidecarphil1 View Post
BUT i have dyno'd a lot of my own motors and position of the end bell makes a huge differance , the end bell can go on 3 places and i moved it round untill i got the best RPM's this made a differance of 5000 RPM on some V3 motors , Also shim the rotor towards the sensor , at higher revs the rotor will move away from the sensor and you can get missed senses on the motor , tis drops the revs down slightly.

This is the world of 0 timing / fixed gearing we are in now in Europe
What kind of dyno do you use?
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Old 01-11-2012, 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by MarcusEngdahl View Post
Tnx For Answere!
The track i race at is really small . Just have stock display so cant change boost.
What Timing on esc and Where should i be in Fdr ?
Also: Maybe i should change to Level "smooth" shouldnt this make my car esier too drive?
I have been using 110323 software and v3.0 6.5T with Phil's setup. Only minor difference is turbo delay 0.2s, Boost Acc 450rpm/deg and 7.38 FDR because my track is smaller that the setup's. I also use a heatsink + fan

http://www.speedpassion.net/uploadfi...C%20RcTech.jpg

Try to be more conservative than this setup at first especially with boost acceleration,turbo delay and FDR because your track is small.

For the 4.5T, I have been running max timing on motor and zero boost/turbo on 110323. FDR was 8.07.

I always run with Level 3 DDRS in mod and do fine tuning with my radio's throttle curve. It is up to you how you want to tune the "punch"
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Old 01-11-2012, 08:08 AM
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Where can I buy a Reventon?
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Old 01-11-2012, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Ooj View Post
I have been using 110323 software and v3.0 6.5T with Phil's setup. Only minor difference is turbo delay 0.2s, Boost Acc 450rpm/deg and 7.38 FDR because my track is smaller that the setup's. I also use a heatsink + fan

http://www.speedpassion.net/uploadfi...C%20RcTech.jpg

Try to be more conservative than this setup at first especially with boost acceleration,turbo delay and FDR because your track is small.

For the 4.5T, I have been running max timing on motor and zero boost/turbo on 110323. FDR was 8.07.

I always run with Level 3 DDRS in mod and do fine tuning with my radio's throttle curve. It is up to you how you want to tune the "punch"
Ok i have a 2.0 gt pro Esc so i think i have the 205mod software.
Will try the setup. But not Boost or turbo delay, cant change that because i dont have the optional programbox.
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Old 01-11-2012, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by M-Technic View Post
What kind of dyno do you use?
Just a cheap Team Powers dyno , you plug the motor on and a battery then press GO and it runs it and you can see the RPM and

not really a true meter but good enough to see REV's
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Old 01-11-2012, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by sidecarphil1 View Post
Normally i remove the rear shim , this is about 0.5mm thick then add 1 X 0.3mm on the back of the rotor and 1 x 0.3 on the front , this gives the smallest amount of play , but ehough for warming up.

It is sometimes a lottery , i have had motors take 2 or 3 shims to remove the play and others were good , I also tried adding the 0.5mm shim to the front of the rotor , but it was a bit close to the sensor board
So rotor closer to sensor = better performance ?
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Old 01-11-2012, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Manson View Post
So rotor closer to sensor = better performance ?
yeah
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Old 01-12-2012, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by sidecarphil1 View Post
Normally i remove the rear shim , this is about 0.5mm thick then add 1 X 0.3mm on the back of the rotor and 1 x 0.3 on the front , this gives the smallest amount of play , but ehough for warming up.

It is sometimes a lottery , i have had motors take 2 or 3 shims to remove the play and others were good , I also tried adding the 0.5mm shim to the front of the rotor , but it was a bit close to the sensor board
I might need to add this to the front page of the motor web....very good information that everyone should know. Thanks Phil....
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Old 01-12-2012, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Solara View Post
I might need to add this to the front page of the motor web....very good information that everyone should know. Thanks Phil....
Thanks mate , it is a bit of a tip i learned with racig ETS for the last 2 years with the V3 motor and Citrix speedo ,

I will be looking for a 17.5 2S WGT speedo set up soon for my GT2.0pro
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Old 01-12-2012, 07:15 PM
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Default Throttle setting problem

Hi all

Have a question regarding setting a Cirtix speedy using a Spektrum DX2S transmitter.

Set up the throttle as per instruction, all good, but when you move the throttle from the neutral point you have to move it about 4 to 5mm before the motor runs, it gets full throttle ok, I do not have this when setting it to my Sanwa MT4 transmitter.

Has any one had this problem, have tried a different speedy and still had the same problem.

Regards
Gary
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