The V3 1cell is better then the normal V3 (i think) but the MMM is better then them bothe , better cooling and more static timing on the end bell , buy the MMM you wont be dissapointed

Are you using a rx pack?

No answers for me? Thanks!

nope nothing

I use the one from my Tekin , 16v 1600 uF BUT i dunno what the SP big boys say about it , i was running my 4.5MMM in my 1/12th last weekend and it was perfect all weekend

I am going to be getting a sedan running to race 17.5 and possibly mod. It will be raced on carpet and asphalt. My question is, is there a esc that will work well with the power band of a spec motor and mod motor. I guess the GT would be the speedo I and for a TC? And where can I get SP esc's, no one has then in stock.

get the GT2.0 great speedy and strong. SP are relesing a new speedy soon dont know when they will have it for the market.
speedys are available on ebay if you want really fast ?

Hey Howard! Check this out!

Thanks for the info.

I have an SP V2.1EX. I use it in a 1S 1/12TH scale car, I have been trying to put it in Blinky mode. I downloaded the 508 "No Timing" software and sent the settings to the ESC. When I turned it on I had steering, but no motor. A green light at the bottom of the ESC would go blink, blink, pause, blink, blink, pause. I could not activate the LCD programming box until I hooked up a 2S LIPO. The LIPO cell select adjustment is not operable. It is set on auto detect, but apparently does not do that. I set the voltage cut off to "No Protection". Now it runs, but the light at the bottom of the ESC does not blink. It is just steady red. With the 323 software I was able to set the voltage cut off to 3.0 and operate without any problem. What am I doing wrong?

You have any SETUP for mod or boost stock for 12th scale that you can share..? I want to put them onto the website so other can share...

Thanks....HOWARD

Yes, you must use CAP...

Hey Howard , no i haven't because i was running the 4.5 for the 1st time in a 1/12th and i am not so good , so had everything turned off :ha::ha:

I don't know exactly where was the problem but you can try these step and do that over it again...

1. Use 2S lipo to start up and get into the LCD mode, you should NOT have any problem to get into the interface
2. install the 508 no timing software
3. go to lipo cutoff and you must turn that off - NONE setting.
4. Save the setting and get out the interface
5. Turn off ESC
6. Turn ON your radio, hold the RED button on the ESC switch and do the calibration with your radio.
7. After finished calibration, TURN OFF the ESC and radio then turn them back on.
8. You should be done with calibrating with 508 and should see the red light blinking at the bottom.

Howard

Come on...not the CRAZY PHIL that used 323boost with 4.5 motor running 75mph Phil....LOL. Ok...once you get to GOOD, you let me know....:lol: