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Originally Posted by Solara
(Post 9763758)
If you are bashing...I think you should stick with the 205G software cause that software does not have BOOST/Supercharger feature like the one that you loaded (110119mod)....the 110119mod is for full race condition that required alot more complicated setting...if not handle right, yes, you can blow up the motor and esc easily.
You should turn DOWN the AMTS timing within the 205g just to play safe....check motor temp and increase your timing and gearing if temperature allow you do so. Checked if everything was working properly by holding my SCT of the table and giving it short blips of the trigger forward and brake and everything works, however I noticed the LED was flashing green at the neutral position afterwards. I just read the manual a few minutes ago and it states: LED Status for Normal Running In normal use, if the throttle is in the neutral range, neither the red LED nor the green LED will be lit.The red LED lights up when the car is run forward or backward and it will flash quickly when the car is braking. The green LED lights up when the throttle stick is moved to full throttle or full brakes/reverse. I also checked my TX throttle and brake settings and everything checks out. Not sure if the flashing LED at neutral position is normal. :confused: |
Originally Posted by JRRobiso
(Post 9767805)
Uploaded the default 205MOD software and went with 15 for the AMTS timing (default setting is 26.25) as you suggested and recalibrated my TX settings with the ESC as we should normally do. :)
Checked if everything was working properly by holding my SCT of the table and giving it short blips of the trigger forward and brake and everything works, however I noticed the LED was flashing green at the neutral position afterwards. I just read the manual a few minutes ago and it states: LED Status for Normal Running In normal use, if the throttle is in the neutral range, neither the red LED nor the green LED will be lit.The red LED lights up when the car is run forward or backward and it will flash quickly when the car is braking. The green LED lights up when the throttle stick is moved to full throttle or full brakes/reverse. I also checked my TX throttle and brake settings and everything checks out. Not sure if the fashing LED at neutral position is normal. :confused: |
Originally Posted by Solara
(Post 9767869)
You might be running the sensorless mode....there should NOT be any light when you are in neutral position. Check your sensor wire and all the connection.
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Originally Posted by JRRobiso
(Post 9767805)
Uploaded the default 205MOD software and went with 15 for the AMTS timing (default setting is 26.25) as you suggested and recalibrated my TX settings with the ESC as we should normally do. :)
Checked if everything was working properly by holding my SCT of the table and giving it short blips of the trigger forward and brake and everything works, however I noticed the LED was flashing green at the neutral position afterwards. I just read the manual a few minutes ago and it states: LED Status for Normal Running In normal use, if the throttle is in the neutral range, neither the red LED nor the green LED will be lit.The red LED lights up when the car is run forward or backward and it will flash quickly when the car is braking. The green LED lights up when the throttle stick is moved to full throttle or full brakes/reverse. I also checked my TX throttle and brake settings and everything checks out. Not sure if the flashing LED at neutral position is normal. :confused: |
Originally Posted by Solara
(Post 9767741)
Hopefully 1st week of November. we have sold about 100 of those 2 weeks ago because the IIC and Halloween Classic event...then some are getting that for Cleveland indoor....
Keep checking our site...but always support the hobby shop, have them to place order.... |
Originally Posted by Solara
(Post 9767869)
You might be running the sensorless mode....there should NOT be any light when you are in neutral position. Check your sensor wire and all the connection.
Originally Posted by John Pape
(Post 9767993)
Sounds like it gone into sensorless mode, try changing the sensor wire, failing that unfortunately, your gonna have to change the sensor in the motor.
With that said, has the sensor wire gone bad? Will try again with another new sensor wire if that will fix it and if not I'll look into the sensor board which I hope won't need replacing. |
Originally Posted by Solara
(Post 9767756)
You are running BOOST or no timing..? Please specify...
If you are running boost...good luck, I hate that class cause it will have 100 setup just for the software and the motor. If you are running no timing...great. Max it to 20* (full right) and gear at 4.5 and check temp....I am sure you can keep gearing up til 4.0 or even higher, depends on the size of the track. |
Originally Posted by Solara
(Post 9767869)
You might be running the sensorless mode....there should NOT be any light when you are in neutral position. Check your sensor wire and all the connection.
Originally Posted by John Pape
(Post 9767993)
Sounds like it gone into sensorless mode, try changing the sensor wire, failing that unfortunately, your gonna have to change the sensor in the motor.
Tried the other default MOD profiles (100528 and 110119) and the funny thing is.....I don't get the flashing green LED @ neutral anymore. Don't know why. Current motor I have is the Silver Arrow V2.0 5.5R and my lipo pack is a Gens Ace hardcase 7.4 2S 5000mah 40c. Current MOD profile on my ESC is the 110119 that I will use when I go to the park bashing with my daughter later this week but need to know what to adjust so I don't blow up my ESC/MOTOR. Thanks for any help you guys can provide. |
the real deal...
bradirs,, just want to know what is the real recommended gearing for competition 3.0 SP 13.5r and SP 10.5r motors?
thanks in advance!!:nod: |
Is there a way to reverse the motor rotation on the Silver Arrow 2 1/8th ESC without the programing box?
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Nevermind i figured it out. :blush:
Originally Posted by mike_d
(Post 9778289)
Is there a way to reverse the motor rotation on the Silver Arrow 2 1/8th ESC without the programing box?
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I have a newb motor question I hope some one here can help me with. I am running a stock class with a 17.5 MMM motor at only 4.8 FDR. At the first 3 min of the race the car runs great. But the power starts to fade after the 3 min mark. It's not going extremely slow or anything like that. It's just lost the "bursty" feeling that it had at the start of the race.
I checked the temperature after the race it was around 140F. So I don't think it's overheating. I am using a 25c lipo battery and a tekin RS. both seems to be running at normal temperature. I am not sure what is causing the loss of speed. And I can't begin to fix the problem without knowing what the problem is. I am not even sure if it is a motor issue. I am just trying my luck here on the SP forum. Anyone here has experienced similar situation? Any advise would be greatly appreciated. |
are all the cirtix speed control sensored?
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Originally Posted by gom
(Post 9778483)
I have a newb motor question I hope some one here can help me with. I am running a stock class with a 17.5 MMM motor at only 4.8 FDR. At the first 3 min of the race the car runs great. But the power starts to fade after the 3 min mark. It's not going extremely slow or anything like that. It's just lost the "bursty" feeling that it had at the start of the race.
I checked the temperature after the race it was around 140F. So I don't think it's overheating. I am using a 25c lipo battery and a tekin RS. both seems to be running at normal temperature. I am not sure what is causing the loss of speed. And I can't begin to fix the problem without knowing what the problem is. I am not even sure if it is a motor issue. I am just trying my luck here on the SP forum. Anyone here has experienced similar situation? Any advise would be greatly appreciated. |
Originally Posted by M-Technic
(Post 9779167)
How many mAh is your battery? I'd suspect its the voltage dropping on your battery causing the fade.
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