the software will not tell you if your running a pro or lpf, your software will not change your esc from a pro to an lpf or vice versa

the physical identification is the decals on the side of the esc.

This pic is of the first screen on the pc software.
At the top it has Profile/mode no ie: 0/1/2
Below that you can name each Profile/mode
What ever settings you change will be saved against that Profile/mode no.
In my case i got 3 done for different tracks we race at.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y23...r13bt/sps1.jpg

In this pic it shows the esc details.
What software version you are running and the choice version window is the listing of different software versions

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y23...r13bt/sps2.jpg

[QUOTE=abailey21;6347839]Most guys at Vegas were starting around 4.4-4.2 and ran for 5 minutes then checked temps, they moved up or down from there, also this will depend on the software your running

Thanks for the reply Adam.
Are those FDR for Rubber or Foams?

I'm running the software that came with my ESC. This was purchased in May if that's any help.
I've arranged with someone to update it this weekend.
What software would you recommend for:
a) tight track?
b) open track?
c) mixed track?

Thanks again.

[QUOTE=sjh28;6351883]Rubber TC, carpet, I think it was mixed to tight

[QUOTE=abailey21;6352261]Hi Adam,

Thanks for your replies.
What program would you recommend for my setup on the different styles of track:
17.5, GT2.0Pro, Rubber, outdoor ashphalt

Cheers

[QUOTE=sjh28;6352392]I would run the 323 s/w with maxed out timing and drrs, also we found that if you run the 'reverse force" at 100% you will get more brakes, don't ask me why?

On setting one I only use fwd/brake but setting the reverse to 100% gives a bit more brakes

What were the motor temps that guys were seeing at vegas in 17.5?
Thanks

I am having a hard time downloading the software to my computer, I was hoping to hey some help. I download and save to my computer from the so site then open with winrar. After that I install onto the computer. I than plug the LCD programmer in and bring up the program. It comes up like the one above but I do not have the basic, advance and software options. What am I doing wrong?
Chris

Open the software first then plug in LCD programmer.
connect servo lead from esc to LCD programmer.
Then make sure that a battery is connected and switch on the esc.

I have a rather fundamental question regarding cleaning motors -- in particular, the UltraSportsman 13.5R, etc... I'm quite familiar with Novak motors, and they have published their recommended cleaning procedure, and I assume the SP motors would be similar, but just wanted to ask... I know, for example, that Novak says NOT to use "motor spray", etc. -- only to dust off the exterior, then use air to blow out dust/dirt from inside the can after removing the ends, etc. -- same for SP..?

I am running offroad, but the SP thread is here in 'onroad', so I'm posting this here -- in offroad, the dust/dirt issue is worse, and proper cleaning/care becomes more important. It seems like the opening behind the solder tabs on the motors might require more frequent cleaning for the SP motors than I'm used to on Novaks also...

Thanks in advance...

[QUOTE=abailey21;6352407]Thanks for all your help.
I'll start with all your suggestions and work from there.

Cheers.

Turn on the esc (with a battery plugged in of course)

Same for all brushless, the winds have an epoxy on them that motor cleaner will eat away

Hey Adam, FYI some of the guys in the A main in 17.5 TC rubber where running a fdr of 3.7 - 3.8 and coming off at around 140* with one fan on the motor. The LRP guys didn't see any performance gain with the timing cranked on the motor, KO used full timing on the motor but rolled back the boost on the SC. The Tekin crew ran with the timing in mid or around 5* but had the delay moved to .3 from .5

I use electronic switch cleaner and a compressor to clean out my motors when needed.
Relube bearings after assembly and its all good.