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Originally Posted by J-PaP
(Post 8766357)
So how many degrees did you drop with the cooling fan if you were running 90 without one?
I'll look into getting one but I may need to find what I can do with the esc in the mean time as I doubt I'll have a heatsink by sunday. |
Originally Posted by sidecarphil1
(Post 8767330)
i dropped about 10 degrees over a 6min run with a heat sink and fan and another 10 degrees by using the much more cooler and the power stayed longer before faiding due to heat
the speedpasion doenst fade or overheat .exept if you are way out with your setings:) |
yeah it was on the Tekin last year , but we all suffered with faid and overheat issues when pushing the limits of 13.5 on our track
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Originally Posted by unknownmember
(Post 8748610)
Hi there,
I just recently got myself a V3 3.5R and the V2.0 GT ESC and today the wire of motor tab B came off....:confused: I had gotten the soldering work done by an RC boffin at a shop but really my main concern is would the motor be okay after this had happen? I have the setup in my TCX with 115 spur and 40 pinion, also the motor temperature at the time the wire came lose was 71C and the ambient temp was about 25C, the battery was warm and wires slightly warm. Before anything, yep the wires are 12AWG. Any ideas?? Thanks and soz for the bad focus, only had my phone and it doesn't ever seem to get the auto focus correct. You are not the only 1 did that...even the world champ Marc Rheinard did that at one of his qualifier @ the recent TITC....B wire as well. LOL.
Originally Posted by cheehtae
(Post 8748744)
Wil the rotor for the 1s work for the 2s stator?
Originally Posted by J-PaP
(Post 8766039)
Hey Neal,
That setup is very similar to what I am using already. But I'm not sure what is best to adjust to drop the temps without sacrificing performance too much. No I'm not. I was trying to see if I can keep the weight down as much as possible. It is already a bit heavy on the Rear left. Or would it be worthwhile taking the extra weight? 21.5 with full boost is really really pushing the motor to its limit...we had tried all the setting from open 17.5 and transfer to open 21.5 and none of them work...apparently, the 21.5 motor is way slower and hotter if use the 17.5 setup as reference. So we have used totally differnet setup and found this the best for indoor carpet use on 21.5. You don't need to use fan...as long as you can get it done for 6 minutes. Gear it to match with the temperature of the motor. However. your track is way bigger then what Sydor used on his setting...you have to tune down Sydor's ESC setup and gear up...your 4.2 final drive does not sound too crazy after you posted the track's size...however, Sydor's setup has to be tuned down to match your high final drive (in your case...). |
Ok so then two things I need to know before I continue setting up my esc.
1. Which setting out of them all affects temperature most? 2. What motor temps should I be aiming for? |
Set up help
Hey guys,
Wondering if yall can help me set up my M-06. I got one as a gift and i got a 540J and a Speed passion Cirtix Stock Class ESC. I was wondering how do I connect to two to each other? Any info helps, Please PM me Cheers. |
Originally Posted by evil.mishi
(Post 8771657)
Hey guys,
Wondering if yall can help me set up my M-06. I got one as a gift and i got a 540J and a Speed passion Cirtix Stock Class ESC. I was wondering how do I connect to two to each other? Any info helps, Please PM me Cheers. |
Originally Posted by J-PaP
(Post 8770445)
Ok so then two things I need to know before I continue setting up my esc.
1. Which setting out of them all affects temperature most? 2. What motor temps should I be aiming for? In general: Reducing the amount of timing = lower heat. Increasing the delay before the boost timing is added = lower heat Increasing the RPM window for the timing to be applied = lower heat Proper gearing for the above settings = lower heat I have not run 21.5 open ESC on that large of a track, but I have run 17.5 open and was geared around 6.4 FDR. I would think trying an FDR of 5.0 would be an interesting experiment. The extra timing needs the RPM to work, and if your overgeared, the extra timing just causes heat. If the speed is not quite there with 5.0 FDR, but the temps are good you can begin to advance the motor timing just a little at a time. 80C on the motor after a 6 minute run is about the maximum I would want to see. |
Originally Posted by J-PaP
(Post 8771764)
Correct me if I'm wrong but I'm pretty sure that ESC is for brushless motors. 540J is a brushed motor. You can't connect a brushed motor to a brushless esc. You should probably get a brushless motor.
But I would like to race in the TCS races, I think I have to use a 540, right? |
Originally Posted by evil.mishi
(Post 8772740)
That makes a lot more sense now.
But I would like to race in the TCS races, I think I have to use a 540, right? |
Originally Posted by J-PaP
(Post 8770445)
Ok so then two things I need to know before I continue setting up my esc.
1. Which setting out of them all affects temperature most? 2. What motor temps should I be aiming for? Your motor should not go above 180~190*f. However, this is for SP motor temp...some ppl who runs LRP need to get the motor up to 200+*F to get the best performance... G12314 and several others who posted here in Rctech are my long time test drivers...their experience on SP motor and ESC are well documented and you can count on their data. |
Solara what's wrong with SP Site
"404 - File or directory not found." |
Originally Posted by irgo
(Post 8775829)
Solara what's wrong with SP Site
"404 - File or directory not found." |
Originally Posted by SRW141
(Post 8775899)
I was just on SP website. Not a problem.
so, Sp hasn't release a new Firmware & PC Interface now ? still with V2.0_101212stock ? |
Hi Guys!
I have SP 2.1 ProStock ESC and a SP 13.5 V3 motor. Whats a good starting gear ration of this setting? Thanks. |
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