Silly question here;

Is it better performance wise to go with the M05 V2 rather than get the upgrade racing package from Yeah racing? example available link below.

I have a M05 from a few years ago; I'm not particular interested in investing too much more into the class as it isn't my
favorite class to race in.

http://www.rcmart.com/aluminum-arms-...a-p-57977.html

The biggest difference between the M05 and V2 is weight distribution. So you can either get the V2 chassis and put your M05 bits on it, or just get the V2.

V2 is a night/day improvement over the M05.

I have the Tamiya shocks, I put in tamiya springs white (yellow dot) and white (blue dot) I have the yellow dot on the front, and the blue dot on the back since yellow is softer. Are these springs the same as the solid yellow and blue short tamiya springs available for the mini? Should I buy the yellow, blue and red springs available for the mini and use those instead. I have the red springs but it is hard for me to get the ride height down so I didn't put those it.

I run on a low-medium grip carpet track. Should I buy s-grip radials all around or run s-grip on the front and m-grip on the rear?

Is it better to buy the pre-glued s-grip tires that are available or is it better to just glue the front tires and leave the rears unglued?

My understanding is that the white springs with the dot are the same as the solid colour. I am also running them with yellow front, blue rear.

As for the upgrade. I just changed the chassis. You can use the original motor mount but it's better to get the v11 version. The biggest advantage is centre of gravity and being able to run a square pack.

The only big thing you wouldn't get by doing this chassis only upgrade is the new adjustable arms that include droop screws.

I have done the conversion and now converted my mini to a V2.

one question, the rear droop screws I can't see ever hitting the spot on the chassis as to aid in handling. I did notice that some people put a piece of plastic to help in this matter, has anyone else had that issue, should I only be concerned about the droop in the front?

the spacing is 1.5 mm rear (as per directions) for droop spacing.

I thought perhaps my ride height was too low; currently I have it at 5, normal?

which diffs should I get? the ta03 ball diffs or 3racing or others? the differentials seem buried deep within the chassis and numerous other components build on it. so if I want to change the diffs, I reckon I need to dismantle half the car just to access it. so I prefer to get the desired diffs first before starting building the kit.

I run 3 different ball diffs in my M05 and V2.
TA03, M05, and MantaRay.

All 3 do fine for me as I don't run a stiff setting, but I think the TA03 is the popular one out of the 3 for racers that wants a stiff setting. I will note that the Manta Ray diff spline broke within 6 months of heavy use.

As for taking the chassis apart to maintain your diff, once you get the hang of it, it gets easy and fast. :)

Can anyone give me guide on sway bar setup on the M05?

You will get a better response from the Tamiya Mini Cooper thread.

Just got one.... just wondering if the stock car can handle 17.5t brushless motor in racing?

Car and drivetrain itself, with bearings, can handle 4.5T.
Tires and driver will be the limiting factor :)

They handle it just fine. The Tamiya Mini Pro class (which doesn't exist anymore..) used 17.5. I ran a M05 with 17.5 in it for a while. :-)

Anybody knows the part number for the M05 Ball Differential?

what are the essential hop ups you need to make the M05 easy to drive? A group of guys I race with are pretty fast with their M05s I don't get it.... they have the same brushed setup and tires as me. But I know they have ball diffs and I have the stock gear diffs. Does the ball diff really makes a difference? I come from 2wd off road buggy so this is pretty new to me.... On road using ball diffs.