Serpenteer

Can anyone tell me the specs on Schumacher's yellow inserts?? Like the ones used in the Sorex Pre-mount they sell.

Martin Hofer

Hey guys

finally managed to update my blog again

Check it out here

Racer X

iTrader: (2)

Martin: I'm sure that it's just been an oversight, but thanks for updating and sharing all of the information. Now if you could only have a picture of the car with the body taken off...

roger999

iTrader: (13)

+1

TheHoofmeister

Hi Guys,

Does anyone here have any experience of the Team Orion R10 Pro ESC or the LRP Flow Works Team ESC with the Mi4 models?

Looking at these on my ESC shortlist for my CXL and looking for something that can work in Blinky AND mod class that is easy to configure between the two. Apparently they both can.

Any feedback appreciated on these two ESC's and/or comparisons if someone has used both.

Thanks,
Hoof

Revinho

what better car to start or MI1 Mi4cx?

Pinion King

Late April I have been told.

Racer X

iTrader: (2)

Revinho: Given the choices you presented, there really isn't a car much better then the Mi4cx. The Mi5 is going to have to be incredible to get me to give up my Mi4cx.

Revinho

Thank you. I'm going to buy the car at the end of the year.

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

The answer might be totally different by then. Mi4CXLs will probably be dirt cheap on the used market by then.

-Mike

AzFittin

Alright gents. I have read through all the posts, built my CXL, rebuilt after re-reading some posts and now have the joy of waiting until the 20th of April for our season to start. I am hoping to get some pointers on a baseline setup including thoughts on front to rear weight distribution, springs ... etc. if you would be so kind.

Take a look at my setup, laugh, cry whatever the case may be and please let me know how it looks. I tend to like more aggressive steering. Class is 17.5 blinky and first time racing TC in way, way too many years!

Since I have no clue if our track would be considered medium or large I have included a link to an old video I found .. there is a lot of talking but some bits of racing that show the approximate size though it is a bit smaller now.

Thanks!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HLqjfI7djnE

TheHoofmeister

Hi, I have recently brought the Mi4cxl and will be building shortly, just getting all my bits together first. What have you changed from the stock kit that would be of improvement/benefit? I have some of the Schumacher titanium parts and ceramic bearings. I have read somewhere that it may be worth trying different shock pistons, o-rings etc that are not schumacher too so just wondered the route you have taken?

Car Breaker

iTrader: (10)

I personally recommended
U4064 C/F Long Top Deck Flex,
world mod lower suspansion block,
front double joint universal,
and a properly built SpecR gear diff for tuning.
stock top deck made the chassis too stiff for my liking, had hard time tuning the car for my local track and my driving style. I notice that after driving a T4, switched the topdeck made the car much better but I still moved on to T4 after a whole year of abusive driving. my schumacher wear out too much and cost almost a car to repair.

AzFittin

Hoofmeister ... I have to defer to others for what the best changes are as this car is brand spankin new to me. I can let you know that I picked up a set of HPI springs #75175 and one of the SpecR gear diffs as those two items are mentioned quite often. I also replaced the stock turnbuckle ends with a set of Associated ones (31305) as I could not get them to loosen up at all. Tried the whole squeeze with pliers thing and could not get it to work for me.

On the pistons and o-rings I will wait and see how it performs before making any decisions. I also stuck with the stock bearings for now. I figure when one fails I will get a set of the ceramics but until then I will use the time to learn how to drive the thing.

I am looking at Lipo retainers but am toying with the idea of running a shorty instead of a full size battery so for now will just stick with the stock setup.

Not sure if any of that helps but it is all I got.

Dusttt

iTrader: (144)

I am building a cxl as we speak and my problem is that to get the arms to move freely I have to back the screws that go though the pivot blocks and into the hinge pins way off. Anyone have a tip here? Or should I just thread lock them in loose?

Also the lipo holder thing is not impressive anyone got their own setup for this?