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Old 10-14-2009, 11:26 AM   #646
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my motor scrapes too

i thought it was normal due to the low height of the motor in the chassis
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Old 10-14-2009, 05:33 PM   #647
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Originally Posted by sidecarphil1 View Post
my motor scrapes too

i thought it was normal due to the low height of the motor in the chassis
I've been noticing the same thing on mine, though in my case it happens on carpet, so I haven't worried about wearing parts out(my chassis & motor just picks up a little rubber from the groove ontrack). but I'll admit I would like to stop it from happening, since I'd think if I can stop it without compromising the handling, it should roll through corners more freely(hence, faster).....
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Old 10-15-2009, 11:58 AM   #648
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I am not Jilles or pro either, but I stick some mirror foil on the bottom of the chassis. Usually use new one before summer season begins. Just few minor scratches occur
Another chassis, same idea http ://rc-cars.rulez.cz/nrx/antiscratch/
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Old 10-16-2009, 06:06 AM   #649
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Hi Jilles Groskamp

Im a guy with not very much money all i have is a TL-01 and that one i intend to race, so my question is. Do you have anny setup tips?

i have not been running this car in about 5 years and as i recall i had a lot of understeer on good tarmac. I have now dremeled away most of the chassi and i have rebuilded both diffs and the rear diff is filled up totaly with "crank grease with teflon" (its for bmx bikes) its pretty stiff i think.

I also have 50mm yeah racing dampers with three sets of springs and team Losi oil with 20, 40, 50, 60 and 80 thickness.

also got camberlinks, adjusable toe in front and its fully ball beared.

In Norway its bascially only three classes: m-chassi, superstock (10,5T and foam) and Modified.

And yes its modified im ending up in, since i got no foam tires and a GM dr speed motor 12x2turn at 220W ca. And yea its silly.

I have a few buchs for something small, thats all.
Here is the build thread for those who are interested: http://forum.radiostyrt.no/vb/showth...515#post352515
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Old 10-16-2009, 06:35 AM   #650
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Hi Jilles,
my car keeps loose during the afternoon (i use Sorex 40R, medium C insert). but it gets better in the evening. so I'm sure it is tires overheating problem.
do you suffer the same problem in Thailand? and how do you manage that?
thanks.

Last edited by krat; 10-20-2009 at 12:30 AM. Reason: more info
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Old 10-16-2009, 07:53 AM   #651
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Hi Jilles,

Thanks for your time and expertise on this thread, the information is invaluable to us!

My question is about the chassis scraping.
I have found that from brand new my 416WE scraps the sides excessively through chassis roll (and the motor bottom edge a little). It is now only ~10 race days old and the sides of the chassis are worn to almost a sharp edge!

Is this normal? I always use the same roll centre settings as per your standard (and similar) setups. Does your car do the same thing? Is there anything you do to stop this?

Thanks
Cookie
Hi

You are running too low ride height. Ride hight should be 5-5.5mm. This should help it out.. Use the basic setups from Jilles, these are very good in any condition. If you use them the car will not scrape the tarmac. The chassis should never touch the racing surface, this can cause the car to be unstable in corners. If it touches then raise the ride height, also on carpet, no rubber should be on the chassis after heats. Motor can scrape curbs sometimes, but only when you get to close to them =)
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Old 10-16-2009, 11:37 AM   #652
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krat View Post
Hi Jilles,
my car keeps loose during the afternoon (i use Sorex 40R). but it gets better in the evening. so I'm sure it is tires overheating problem.
do you suffer the same problem in Thailand? and how do you manage that?
thanks.
drilling a few extra vent holes on the wheels bfore mounting the tires does help cool it abit. Insert choice is also important.
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Old 10-16-2009, 06:41 PM   #653
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Originally Posted by Lilhill View Post
Hi

You are running too low ride height. Ride hight should be 5-5.5mm. This should help it out.. Use the basic setups from Jilles, these are very good in any condition. If you use them the car will not scrape the tarmac. The chassis should never touch the racing surface, this can cause the car to be unstable in corners. If it touches then raise the ride height, also on carpet, no rubber should be on the chassis after heats. Motor can scrape curbs sometimes, but only when you get to close to them =)
That's true, but there are still instances where the ride height is at 5.5mm or higher & it STILL rubs the track surface a bit(which is true in my case, I keep my car at 5.5-6mm pretty much all the time, but I still have to clean off rubber that the chassis has been picking up). And I would imagine I'm not the only one to experience this, hence we bring this up with a factory driver like Jilles...
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Old 10-17-2009, 02:00 AM   #654
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+1 on the chassis rubbing and I never run below 5mm ride height - most of the time it's 5.5mm. Looking forward to Jilles' feedback on this one too!
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Old 10-18-2009, 08:38 AM   #655
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Hi, Jills.

Great reading! Met you once after DHI at a party with some Dane, think it was Joans Kaerup. ( Sadly i was the one fall asleep behind the door witch Dresher accidently banged in my head a couple of times, LOLOLOL)

Well, my question is not really abaout the 416 cars, but the TB evolution 5 cars, why are not anyone using theese cars?

I was very happy drinving the EVIII some years back and i like being a little different. Loooking to get back to some carpet racing this winter.

It would be great if you ahve some opinions abaot the EVO 5 chassis. I will be running super stock class.
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Old 10-19-2009, 12:24 AM   #656
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Originally Posted by Grizzbob View Post
That's true, but there are still instances where the ride height is at 5.5mm or higher & it STILL rubs the track surface a bit(which is true in my case, I keep my car at 5.5-6mm pretty much all the time, but I still have to clean off rubber that the chassis has been picking up). And I would imagine I'm not the only one to experience this, hence we bring this up with a factory driver like Jilles...
If the car still rubs with the tamiya white/blue sprins and with 40+ oil and the shocks in the right positions with rubber tires, then something is wrong on your car I think.. Never had that problem and have been running the car for allmost two years now. Maybe your droop is wrong.. My setup is allways close to the ones Jilles suggest and the car is good in any condition and have never had problems like the chassis rubbing.
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Old 10-19-2009, 01:06 PM   #657
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Hi Jilles,

I'm about to order a SP 4,5t to drive with lipo, but my question is, do i need special rotors beside the standard one?

Greetings,
Thomas Stockman
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Old 10-20-2009, 12:15 AM   #658
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hi Jilles, hope you can come to Indonesia on November to joint our Year End Race...
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Old 10-20-2009, 05:06 AM   #659
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Default setup carpet

hi jilles, thanks for this thread. finally some tips from the pro
i have a problem with my tamiya as it kind of "stops" in mid corner.
so i run full power to the curve and get off the throttle and by mid corner (apax) the car practically
comes to a stand still instead of "rolling" through the corner smoothly.
i post my setup and i am glad for any pointers.
cheers
vito
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"Ask" Jilles Groskamp Tamiya 416 & 417, Team Orion Motors-setup_carpet.jpg  
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Old 10-23-2009, 05:15 AM   #660
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Hello Cookie,

The chassis always scraps a little on the side and especially on the motor side.
It depends on the track how much it scraps. Many years ago I ran at the Lostallo track in Switserland which has super highspeed corners and my chassis on the sides scrapped a lot. But this is a compromise you should do.
Because you can run your car 6mm but then you will not have the same handling and you will also lose time. So especially on highspeed tracks you will have a lot of chassis scrapping. Also on carpet you have some, this I always try to avoid by dremel the edges of the chassis and make it very round.

Mats,

Nice modifications! I don't have TL-01 set-up. But understeer in TL-01 is maybe because you made the chassis so soft.

Krat,

In Thailand the laptimes in evening are always 0.2-0.4 faster.
But to avoid overheating during daytime use thick shockoil, (700).
In evening you can go back to 500-600.

Lilhill,

I not agree with your post. All chassis should touch little as you always need to compromise with ride-height.
At the recent Euros in Luxembourg we had a lot of chassis scrapping due the bumps and high differents in the track (almost 2meter). When we tested higher ride-height we ran slower laptimes as the car had less downforce and more roll movement. Also on carpet you need to run as low as possible otherwise the car tractionrolls too easy. Check at big carpet races the chassis of the fast guys and you will see some rubber on the sides of the chassis.

Cyanyde,

Good idea, before we ran with control tyres we always made holes in the wheels.

Veecee,

At the recent Worlds in Thailand most of the drivers ran 4.5mm ride height.
Also on carpet you can use 4.5mm.
I agree at most other outdoor track I use 5-5.5mm and indoors always 5mm.

am,

How are you? This was back in 2002 I think?
We always run the latest TRF model. I think the Evo5 car is really good but Tamiya wants us to run and promote 416.

Thomas,

We always use the standard rotor 12.5mm. We play with the timing and gearing to get the best handling/power.

t4m1y4niac,

This week I got an email from some of the organiser. I will discuss with Team Orion Asia and will let you know shortly.

Vito,

I see you use 415. This car was really difficult to set-up for carpet.
But I see you not use and suspension mount spacer. Try lower rollcenter, add 0.5mm spacers in the rear. Also long camber link in front will help to
"finish" the corner better.
Front and rear same shockoil, like 450W.

Let me know how the changes worked out.

Jilles
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