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"Ask" Jilles Groskamp Tamiya 416 & 417, Team Orion Motors

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Old 06-29-2011, 05:18 AM
  #1651  
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hi, at what temperature should be warmed before leaving the wheels on the track?
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Old 06-29-2011, 12:13 PM
  #1652  
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Originally Posted by theoneandonly
Hi Jillies,

Do you play around with shock pistons? Or do you just use the original ones that comes with the kit?
I haven't done much testing with this, I usually run 3 hole standard piston and play with rebound and shockoil.

Originally Posted by Nick Groves
Do you think the gear diff would be good to run in 17.5 non boosted racing? Or would the ball diff be fine? What does the gear diff do that makes it so much better than the ball diff?
Geardiff has more steering on power because have zero "slip". I have heard from some guys who run stock that they still prefer a ball diff as you won't have to rebuild the diff too often and it drives easier then a geardiff.

Originally Posted by teamsanwa
hi jilles~

what situation you will using front gear diff.?

thanks
I suggest to try a geardiff in front if your car is pushing a lot and on short tracks with hairpins it has more steering.

Originally Posted by encore75
Jilles,

When using HPI springs (I've finally got the #6543 Silvers, after them being out of stock for awhile here in the US), what spring retainers do you use? I noticed that they're a bit larger in diameter than the Tamiya springs and find that they just slide around on the Tamiya spring retainers. Or should I not worry about this?

(My apologies in advance if this has been answered...I couldn't seem to find an answer during a search.)

Thanks again.
I believe Tamiya just released the wider spring retainer for these springs. Also other brands like Roche or Square have these retainer available.


Originally Posted by Manson
Jilles,

Where do you mesure the drop ?

Under arm but where exatly. On the front on the rear of arm ?

Under the pin screw ?


thanks
I measure it under the arm near the pin.

Originally Posted by oscargonzalez
hi, at what temperature should be warmed before leaving the wheels on the track?
It depends on the track/tyres etc. At the worlds we warmed the tyres at 60 degree but took them of about 5 minutes before the race. Then the tyres cooled to about 30 degrees.
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Old 06-30-2011, 05:44 AM
  #1653  
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What do use under the chassis when you set your droop? How many MM thick is it?
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Old 07-04-2011, 02:46 PM
  #1654  
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Originally Posted by JGH
...I recommend the following changes to change while running on low grip surface.

- Kick up rear, this helps on power traction, 1mm/0mm...
Jilles
Hi JGH,

I've been using this thread for quite some time as a resource, but the first time posting to it, so let me start by thanking you.

THANK YOU

As quoted above you mention that adding kick up in rear helps on power traction, on low grip surfaces.

I honestly didn't understand the logic, of why kick-up in the rear would actually improve traction, but I gave it a go on a low grip track and surprisingly it worked.

However I am not 'fully satisfied' as I don't understand why kick-up in rear improves traction... Could you explain why (the physics behind it)?

Also a general question. Is traction the same as grip??

Thanks,
CRiXman
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Old 07-10-2011, 06:19 AM
  #1655  
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Jilles,

Noticed pics of Marc's car at final ETS, looks to have modified chassis round suspension blocks and motor mounted top/bottom instead of kit side to side. Are these updates for a future car?
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Old 07-13-2011, 04:00 AM
  #1656  
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so in the set up sheet how do you know if they run the diff high or low.
In jiles latest set up I could not tell if he ran the diff high or low on the front and rear. can anyone tell me?
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Old 07-13-2011, 08:19 AM
  #1657  
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Originally Posted by Nick Groves
What do use under the chassis when you set your droop? How many MM thick is it?
I have droop blocks which are 10mm.

Originally Posted by CRiXman
Hi JGH,

I've been using this thread for quite some time as a resource, but the first time posting to it, so let me start by thanking you.

THANK YOU

As quoted above you mention that adding kick up in rear helps on power traction, on low grip surfaces.

I honestly didn't understand the logic, of why kick-up in the rear would actually improve traction, but I gave it a go on a low grip track and surprisingly it worked.

However I am not 'fully satisfied' as I don't understand why kick-up in rear improves traction... Could you explain why (the physics behind it)?

Also a general question. Is traction the same as grip??

Thanks,
CRiXman
Honestly I don't know the theory behind kick-up. Most of my tips or suggestions are simply out of experience. Traction or grip is the same meaning to me.

Originally Posted by barts71m
Jilles,

Noticed pics of Marc's car at final ETS, looks to have modified chassis round suspension blocks and motor mounted top/bottom instead of kit side to side. Are these updates for a future car?
At this moment we have some new parts for test. The last couple of races we have been doing great and so I believe some of the parts will come soon or later.

Originally Posted by Vicko
so in the set up sheet how do you know if they run the diff high or low.
In jiles latest set up I could not tell if he ran the diff high or low on the front and rear. can anyone tell me?
Usually we always run the diff low, I agree it's not noticeable in the set-up sheet.

Jilles
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Old 07-13-2011, 09:00 AM
  #1658  
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Originally Posted by JGH
At this moment we have some new parts for test. The last couple of races we have been doing great and so I believe some of the parts will come soon or later.
Sure its not more to do with youself being present?

Out of interest, I notice Marc has switched to the split blocks, and seemingly made the car quite a bit more flexy along with the cut top deck.

Have you been running the car in this fashion as well? or differently? Haven't seen many pics of your car recently

I've made up a second top deck to try out, but would be interested to hear your thoughts on what benefit it may bring.

Thanks in advance
Ed
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Old 07-13-2011, 09:38 AM
  #1659  
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[QUOTE=JGH;9383574]I have droop blocks which are 10mm. [QUOTE=JGH;9383574]

if you had your ride height set at 5.5mm front and rear and your down stops at 6mm front and 5mm rear about how many mm droop would you have? Just trying to make sure the way I am setting it I am getting the correct setting.

In your setup sheets it calls for 6mm downstop in front and 5mm in the rear. and looking at most of your setup sheets you dont usualy change this even when you change ride height? does the car seam to work better with this amount of up travel?

Last edited by Nick Groves; 07-13-2011 at 09:59 AM.
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Old 07-14-2011, 12:26 AM
  #1660  
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Originally Posted by TryHard
Sure its not more to do with youself being present?

Out of interest, I notice Marc has switched to the split blocks, and seemingly made the car quite a bit more flexy along with the cut top deck.

Have you been running the car in this fashion as well? or differently? Haven't seen many pics of your car recently

I've made up a second top deck to try out, but would be interested to hear your thoughts on what benefit it may bring.

Thanks in advance
Ed
Hi Ed, at the last ETS I ran almost the same tweaks as Marc. The split susp. blocks with the cutted topdeck seems to work good on low and medium traction. The last ETS the track was due the wind very dusty that's why we ran like this. However I believe now that even with higher traction like in the evening at the ETS the car still performed really good with all the flex.


[QUOTE=Nick Groves;9383925][QUOTE=JGH;9383574]I have droop blocks which are 10mm.
Originally Posted by JGH

if you had your ride height set at 5.5mm front and rear and your down stops at 6mm front and 5mm rear about how many mm droop would you have? Just trying to make sure the way I am setting it I am getting the correct setting.

In your setup sheets it calls for 6mm downstop in front and 5mm in the rear. and looking at most of your setup sheets you dont usualy change this even when you change ride height? does the car seam to work better with this amount of up travel?
Hi Nick, the ride height has effect on the amount of downstop you run.
Most of the time I run 6mm front and 5 rear with a ride height of 5mm.
Like TITC I ran my car 4.5mm so I changed my downstops to 6.5 and 5.5.
I never measure how much uptravel this is, I only check the downstop number and the ride height.

Will post my set-up of Andernach ETS soon!
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Old 07-14-2011, 12:35 AM
  #1661  
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Originally Posted by JGH
Will post my set-up of Andernach ETS soon!
Looking forward to.....

btw, hope to catch up with you in Oct at the Exceed Cup at RC Addict. Unless ur not running?

cheers
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Old 07-15-2011, 01:12 AM
  #1662  
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could somebody explain how to produce rear kick-up?
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Old 07-15-2011, 08:18 AM
  #1663  
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Originally Posted by vitomon
could somebody explain how to produce rear kick-up?
You normally stick a .5 or 1mm shim under your suspension block
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Old 07-16-2011, 07:19 AM
  #1664  
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Originally Posted by jonest
Looking forward to.....

btw, hope to catch up with you in Oct at the Exceed Cup at RC Addict. Unless ur not running?

cheers
Hi Jonest, sure I will race the Xceed Cup in Bangkok, see you there!

Originally Posted by vitomon
could somebody explain how to produce rear kick-up?
Add 1mm shim under the front suspension block and run the rear all the way down.

Attached my set-up from the final round of ETS in Andernach.
Memo:
- cut motormount
- cut topdeck
- rear geardiff 1000W
- front and rear split suspension blocks
Attached Thumbnails "Ask" Jilles Groskamp Tamiya 416 & 417, Team Orion Motors-ets-rd.6.jpg  
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Old 07-16-2011, 06:49 PM
  #1665  
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Originally Posted by JGH
Hi Jonest, sure I will race the Xceed Cup in Bangkok, see you there!


Add 1mm shim under the front suspension block and run the rear all the way down.

Attached my set-up from the final round of ETS in Andernach.
Memo:
- cut motormount
- cut topdeck
- rear geardiff 1000W
- front and rear split suspension blocks
Excellent, thanks Jilles. I'll be testing that out today at TRS in shanghai, and given it's been rainin overnight, don't expect high traction
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