stiltskin

iTrader: (103)

I've run my micro pro gear diff all season with absolutely no issues. Yesterday I removed a bunch of shims to free it up and got what I deserved. Fresh rebuild and back to the track we go.

JustinLessard

Motor: Duo 3
ESC: Tekin RS
Battery: Trinity
Body: protoform speed 6
Radio: futaba 3pk
Charger: Thunder power 610-C
Traction:[/QUOTE] Jack the Gripper

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

Thanks, updated the list with your info.

ChadB.

iTrader: (21)

I am having some issues with a lot of chatter and vibration coming from the front end of my car. Is there any way to fix this without buying the ECS shafts right away? I have Regionals this weekend and I would like to get this fixed. I believe this is really effecting my car and it is getting annoying.

smoke81

The first thing you should do is get the axle pin covers.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...n-Holder-Red-4

The next thing I would suggest is mugen joint grease. And don't be afraid to put a lot in there.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...r-Joint-Grease


The only time i've ever had chatter problems was after borrowing a set of cvd's, and they weren't lubed

locked

iTrader: (1)

+1 on the axle pin retainers. Also check that the dogbones on each side aren't both going into the out drives the same way. Make one vertical and the other horizontal. I found it lessens the chatter a bit.

ChadB.

iTrader: (21)

Thanks for your help Dustin and D. Locke. I do have the axle pin retainer and it did make a difference but not enough. Do any of you ever have any problems with these sticking to the axles? As far as the grease goes, I think I need to add quite a bit more than what I have using. I have just been barely putting any on there. Is there a point where there is just to much?

smoke81

I have had a few that were a touch hard to get off, but none that have got stuck.

Really I don't think you can put to much in.. When you put them together it should squeeze most of the extra out. Then what ever extra left over will fling out as soon as you pull the trigger the first time.

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

Considering it was 'tight' like that for so long... 'loosening' it up on the older internals might have been the cause of failure. Mine was new, and spec'd out on tighter tolerances. Only time will tell how long mine will run before i have an issue.

My uPro is nowhere near notchy. Its smoother than the best ball diff i have ever built.

Bishop

iTrader: (5)

Although, Spec-R = twice the price of the Micro Pro, Yoko = three times the price of the MP, so you can buy either two or three for the cost of one other, and the MP diff rebuild kits are also dirt cheap.


Which is why I bought two, it seems like a lot of people bought them, put in zero effort and gave up on them right away, but look at the Spec-R thread, or elsewhere, guys had major troubles with them, but some kept at it, even in the face of many rubbishing them, yet play out to recently and most say they are great now.

smoke81

.

Luppi Stefano

???

Mr.A Morris

iTrader: (17)

Chad, let me know if you want to switch cars for reginals this weekend hahaha... Dont for get if you run the 21.5 class you need to add a tank worth of weight!!!!

See you there! I made some changes to my car... It should be faster

stiltskin

iTrader: (103)

Here's a couple of things to look at. For the chatter, check to see if the dogbone has worn on the pin. If so, it will cause the tire to jump when you turn the wheel on throttle. For the axle pin covers, I always put a thin film of black grease around the axle before I slide them on. Makes it alot easier to get them back off of the axle when its time to rebuild. HTH.

MikeXray

iTrader: (73)

A gear diff up front also fixes the chatter issue since both axles aren't fighting each other.