hana166

iTrader: (2)

When I tried them back to back I did feel that the gold was closer to a 3.0

Physically they look similar, not many turns

The feel of the car is quite different though

chris_dono

just going on the spring chart I've got here.

3.0 = 300gf/mm = 16.9 lb/in
hpi silver = 301 gf/mm = 17.1 lb/in
photon 306.. well it's 306

darrenoakley

Was hoping roll centres would come up. Can someone explain what this does to the photon in terms of cornering/handling please?
The kit has L,M,H presumably low medium and high. I have the medium ones on as per the stock set up sheet. I was wondering what the low ones would do if I changed. Also the inserts can be run up or down is this just another minor adjustment ?

sosidge

You've got a total of six roll centre adjustments on the car, 0.5mm between each one, going in sequence...

L/insert down (notch DOWN)
L/insert up (notch UP)
M/insert down
M/insert up
H/insert down
H/insert up

Basically, a lower roll centre will give the car more cornering grip and more chassis roll.

darrenoakley

Ok thanks understand it a bit better now. Your helping me out a lot at the moment thanks.

Still need more turn in. Would it be worth moving the steering crank to the rearward position with the standard insert or change insert too ?

Luppi Stefano

well...
I Found This....

Xray Rubber Spring isn't Classified by gf/mm

darrenoakley

Also just realised Sosidge that I have been reading your photon build blog so ignore the question I left on there as you have prob covered it here.

sosidge

For more steering run a LONG crank and/or a NARROW insert.

I'm running the longest setting on the crank and the 10 insert, I certainly wouldn't want any less steering than this.

For more steering, look towards a softer front spring, softer bar and lower front roll centre among other things.

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

Dont be afraid to try HPI's springs... ive been using them lately and prefer them over the XRAY C and D series of springs...

el salvador

iTrader: (7)

Well Franko, if I were to reassemble my car to default kit specs, you wouldn't need a setup station to see it! I can visually see the difference when viewing the car from overhead. I have the car assembled currently with the Now discontinued 2.5mm LiPo plate and if you compare the Front to Back measurments, I find .20mm difference. The original Chassis Plate was "Much Worse". However, I'm done "Beating this Dead Horse"! I actually think TOP owes me a New Chassis Plate, but won't be holding my breath.

L.Fairtrace

iTrader: (24)

I'm laughing out loud at a .20 mm difference. I guarantee if you take it apart and tighten the screws in a different order or use different screws or something the .2mm will probably go away. .2mm difference is about .1 degrees or something. If you are pushing slightly harder on the calibers on one side you can probably get more of a difference than that.

I have had a ton of chassis and have never seen this happen before where the bulkheads were not drilled straight and just about 1 out of every 2 people in my region have TOP cars and not one of them reports misdrilled chassis.

Just saying....

el salvador

iTrader: (7)

Uh Larry, the Non complaint on my part is not .20mm that I can measure on my car as NOW configured. The Original 2.5mm 6 cell plate when assembled on the car in the default settings leaves the car with about 1.5* more Toe in on the Left Rear corner if I do not reconfigure the shim array to compensate for this. And again, I'm not complaining about this, I just conclude that this particular Plate was not machined correctly. Sheeesh!

OVA

iTrader: (86)

.Hi Lyn
Are you saying the hole is .2mm off from each other?
You know that each degree is about .44mm ...
So I trig the number and it is only .278 deg off base on the .2mm off!

If you are 1.15mm off the would make sense...

anthony_ling

iTrader: (2)

When compressing the shock by hand I noticed a notchy feel when you compress and release it quickly... this dosen't occur every time I compress and release the shock.. maybe 3/10 times it occurs..
i'm running the v2 shock and 3x 1mm piston 45wt Losi oil..

I have taken apart the shock and left just the piston, no spring or cap and can still feel the piston bind up??
Is this occurring because I haven't shimmed out the piston (between the e-clip) ? or because the oil / piston combo is not suitable? (causing a lock)

On the track I didn't notice any issues at all..

I'm thinking to rebuild with the 1.2x3 piston and shim out the e-clips..

pcar951

iTrader: (23)

Shim those pistons.... I bet it solves the problem.