New Yokomo TC, the BD-5
08-04-2009, 03:42 PM
#871
You worry me about the quality of this car, you broke more than I've broke all year!The flex in the stock suspension might not be the best bet for that track, but it should work great in parking lots. And as I've said, NO tweak all weekend long. I don't think I've ever tweaked the chassis yet!
08-04-2009, 04:48 PM
#872
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Jimmy what speed control you running?
Rod
Rod
08-04-2009, 05:58 PM
#875
08-04-2009, 09:03 PM
#878
Any car that I buy, I usually spend about $700 to $800 in the kit and spare parts from the beginning. So if that's what you mean, then yes. I did this with the 416. And I did this with the 009. Infact, I spent more on the 009 than any car I've had.
For the Nats, if you are going with a oneway (I am), all you need is the kit, the graphite suspension set, and whatever spares you want. That's it. Oh, maybe some springs if you don't already have a full range of springs. If you were to race it outside of the Coliseum, then yeah, you would need a center locked pulley and a spool. Graphite arm set is not needed outside of the Coliseum unless if you are racing on carpet.
If you want to order anything, I suggest Elwyn. He has great service. And a full range of Yokomo parts since they are a distributor. And it looks like they have a better and faster way to ship from Malaysia. EMS was just too slow! They sent out my order on the 4th, and it's suppose to be here on the 6th!
For the Nats, if you are going with a oneway (I am), all you need is the kit, the graphite suspension set, and whatever spares you want. That's it. Oh, maybe some springs if you don't already have a full range of springs. If you were to race it outside of the Coliseum, then yeah, you would need a center locked pulley and a spool. Graphite arm set is not needed outside of the Coliseum unless if you are racing on carpet.
If you want to order anything, I suggest Elwyn. He has great service. And a full range of Yokomo parts since they are a distributor. And it looks like they have a better and faster way to ship from Malaysia. EMS was just too slow! They sent out my order on the 4th, and it's suppose to be here on the 6th!
08-04-2009, 09:10 PM
#879
I'm doing 17.5... so it's safe with a oneway. I haven't raced enough at the Coliseum to decide on what is needed in 13.5. I think most were using spool?? But again, it depends on track layout.
Also, the kit rear toe is 3.5°. I did not find this to be hindering at all. But if you want, they offer a block for 3° and 2.5°. I have them all. But I ended up on the stock 3.5° rear block.
What class did you race at the Coliseum? And what did you use? Oneway or spool?
Also, the kit rear toe is 3.5°. I did not find this to be hindering at all. But if you want, they offer a block for 3° and 2.5°. I have them all. But I ended up on the stock 3.5° rear block.
What class did you race at the Coliseum? And what did you use? Oneway or spool?
08-04-2009, 09:22 PM
#880
Me wants new spool! Who sells titanium racing stuff stateside??!!
http://www.redrc.net/2009/08/titaniu...5-front-spool/
http://www.redrc.net/2009/08/titaniu...5-front-spool/
08-05-2009, 12:37 AM
#881
Well I agree that the BD5 is a good car but it has some nasty problems as well.
Likes:
- Similar to other cars in design so its easy to switch over
- Super smooth diff.
- Awesome servo saver. solid no slop.
- Excellent Shocks
- laser etched logos everywhere
- Great drift car with solid on the rear and oneway up front.
dislikes:
- Servo position. You "HAVE TO" Shoegoo the servo. don't waste time with tape.
- Cheesy belt tensiners front and rear. Although good idea not functional in the heat of the race. I also have bulkheads drilled too much so the spring and ball sits below the surface. had to epoxy the hole and redrill it.
- Manufacturing error that are not acceptable at this level both cosmeticly and mechanically. Namely,
- belt tensioner spring ball hole drilled too much,
- top deck holes do not match with the aluminium parts so it tweaks the car,
- two different blue tones on the al. parts,
- Motor mount method accepts only speedmind or yokomo spurs. to change a pinion you have to pull the middle layshaft off if you have lots of spurs and dont want to invest in new ones. takes me 15 mins to change a pinion and 15 mins to set the gear mesh, not fun
- no collars for the sway bars. yokomo supplied set screws to keep the bars in place
- shock bottom cups strip easily
- Comes with the useless dual oneway setup that only works at yokomo test track.
- yokomo spool very fragile. I agree it protects parts but it is not good for mod class.
- center solid pulley has slop in it.
- out of the box there are not enough shims for the suspension arms. so get a set of 3mm center shims
- the chassis is too stiff for asphalt and tries to makes up for this with soft plastic parts. this may work with stck class but in mod its very nervous and unpredictable.
Likes:
- Similar to other cars in design so its easy to switch over
- Super smooth diff.
- Awesome servo saver. solid no slop.
- Excellent Shocks
- laser etched logos everywhere
- Great drift car with solid on the rear and oneway up front.
dislikes:
- Servo position. You "HAVE TO" Shoegoo the servo. don't waste time with tape.
- Cheesy belt tensiners front and rear. Although good idea not functional in the heat of the race. I also have bulkheads drilled too much so the spring and ball sits below the surface. had to epoxy the hole and redrill it.
- Manufacturing error that are not acceptable at this level both cosmeticly and mechanically. Namely,
- belt tensioner spring ball hole drilled too much,
- top deck holes do not match with the aluminium parts so it tweaks the car,
- two different blue tones on the al. parts,
- Motor mount method accepts only speedmind or yokomo spurs. to change a pinion you have to pull the middle layshaft off if you have lots of spurs and dont want to invest in new ones. takes me 15 mins to change a pinion and 15 mins to set the gear mesh, not fun
- no collars for the sway bars. yokomo supplied set screws to keep the bars in place
- shock bottom cups strip easily
- Comes with the useless dual oneway setup that only works at yokomo test track.
- yokomo spool very fragile. I agree it protects parts but it is not good for mod class.
- center solid pulley has slop in it.
- out of the box there are not enough shims for the suspension arms. so get a set of 3mm center shims
- the chassis is too stiff for asphalt and tries to makes up for this with soft plastic parts. this may work with stck class but in mod its very nervous and unpredictable.
08-05-2009, 01:30 AM
#882
Damn, sounds like you got one from a bad batch and missing parts. I had a few shims left over after putting on the kit setting. And I had 4 swaybar collars in my kit.
Yeah, mounting a motor might be a pain, but it's the same as an XRay. Yokomo spurs are Xenon spurs that have been reamed out. So all you need to do is either buy Yokomo spurs or Xenon spurs. No biggie there. I'm glad the Yokomo kit came with a long allen wrench with a ball end. Makes putting in and adjusting motors a snap!
As I said, I have no tweak. I think the key is not tightening down your bulkheads when you build the kit. A TIP would be: Lightly mount the bulkheads to the chassis. Do Not tighten down the screws. Then lightly mount the bulkhead caps and topdeck. Then lightly mount the shock towers. Make sure you have a nice flat table or setup board. Then start tightening everything down slowly. Mine came out perfect. I could even flip the car upside down and the shock towers were flat/even front to back and left to right (no wobble).
My ball/spring belt tension setup works great. I think it was a cool idea. All I have to do to adjust my belt tension is slightly loosen the caps (4 screws) then push the cams to adjust tension. No need to take anything off. But I have yet to try pushing on them without loosening anything up.
The chassis is as stiff as a 009 or 416. I see no issue there. But I did take off the top post on the steering rack as others have suggested.
Shock bottom caps? I may have to agree to a point. If they are not screwed down all the way, they may pop out for some odd reason.
Servo? Yeah, I agree.... mine is now officially shoe goo'd down!!
Is the servo saver that good? I never tried it. I'm using a Tamiya one. I'll have to see how it is sometime. Looks like it may work though.
Useless dual oneway? Yeah, for the most part here in the USA. Although it does work at the Coliseum and on carpet tracks in stock class. Mod in the USA? Are you kidding me? haha
You forgot steering slop. That was my biggest gripe on the car besides the aluminum diff wearing out.
Overall, I think it's a good car though. Would be nice to see a Reedy Race version or something. Comes with spool, locked pulley, graphite arms, and Team Bomber Belts. That would be awesome!
Oh, I do like the fact that the axles and bones come built for you and nicely lubed! And the bearings in the kit are pretty nice as well.
Yeah, mounting a motor might be a pain, but it's the same as an XRay. Yokomo spurs are Xenon spurs that have been reamed out. So all you need to do is either buy Yokomo spurs or Xenon spurs. No biggie there. I'm glad the Yokomo kit came with a long allen wrench with a ball end. Makes putting in and adjusting motors a snap!
As I said, I have no tweak. I think the key is not tightening down your bulkheads when you build the kit. A TIP would be: Lightly mount the bulkheads to the chassis. Do Not tighten down the screws. Then lightly mount the bulkhead caps and topdeck. Then lightly mount the shock towers. Make sure you have a nice flat table or setup board. Then start tightening everything down slowly. Mine came out perfect. I could even flip the car upside down and the shock towers were flat/even front to back and left to right (no wobble).
My ball/spring belt tension setup works great. I think it was a cool idea. All I have to do to adjust my belt tension is slightly loosen the caps (4 screws) then push the cams to adjust tension. No need to take anything off. But I have yet to try pushing on them without loosening anything up.
The chassis is as stiff as a 009 or 416. I see no issue there. But I did take off the top post on the steering rack as others have suggested.
Shock bottom caps? I may have to agree to a point. If they are not screwed down all the way, they may pop out for some odd reason.
Servo? Yeah, I agree.... mine is now officially shoe goo'd down!!
Is the servo saver that good? I never tried it. I'm using a Tamiya one. I'll have to see how it is sometime. Looks like it may work though.
Useless dual oneway? Yeah, for the most part here in the USA. Although it does work at the Coliseum and on carpet tracks in stock class. Mod in the USA? Are you kidding me? haha
You forgot steering slop. That was my biggest gripe on the car besides the aluminum diff wearing out.
Overall, I think it's a good car though. Would be nice to see a Reedy Race version or something. Comes with spool, locked pulley, graphite arms, and Team Bomber Belts. That would be awesome!
Oh, I do like the fact that the axles and bones come built for you and nicely lubed! And the bearings in the kit are pretty nice as well.
08-05-2009, 02:01 AM
#883
08-05-2009, 02:10 AM
#884
i dont have issue with d miss-align screw or what ....i dont see any problem mounting the motor into the car...quite easy if using Speedmind spur or yokomo spur...im using speedmind spur....lightweight n durable...
i admit the alloy front spool n rear diff wear out quite fast....(sorry, i unable to relube it every 2 run as the race/ practise the break time is very short)..but options is available to replace it....i think this wont be a prob anymore...
belting, i notice it's quite durable....if u ever use S400 1st batch belting, it's suck!....
im using a heavy duty doubletape for my servo...so far no prob....u need to put 0.5mm under the servo mount below ....it's to make d servo lever/even after u put in d tape below the servo....( i hope u can understand my bad english)
i admit the alloy front spool n rear diff wear out quite fast....(sorry, i unable to relube it every 2 run as the race/ practise the break time is very short)..but options is available to replace it....i think this wont be a prob anymore...
belting, i notice it's quite durable....if u ever use S400 1st batch belting, it's suck!....
im using a heavy duty doubletape for my servo...so far no prob....u need to put 0.5mm under the servo mount below ....it's to make d servo lever/even after u put in d tape below the servo....( i hope u can understand my bad english)
08-05-2009, 02:31 AM
#885
well the tracks we run here in Turkey are extremely large. basicaly its a 1/8 track. To sum it its a torture test.
yes some things I forgot are;
no blades on the pins for the shafts. axle pins and the out drives wear out very easily.
yes the steering slop. I think someone was drunk when they designed that
you are not using the Yokomo Saver? man you didnt use the best part of the car lol
Spur issue is a biggie for me because I have a full set of 48P Spurs and Pinions. Yoke only makes 64P ones which are useles for me. I have been told about the speedmind gears but I cant get a hold of them. found couple shops that has them but most are in US and most dont send to Turkey. US only. Champ didnt have it. and all others have the 64P. Xenon haven't checked. the only think I ever saw from Xenon is battery tape.
For building the car I did the way you told me loosen the screws etc etc. but the top dec screws wont line up. if you screwthe top fist an bottom later the deck tweaks. I just enlarged the holes and cut the top deck in half so everything fits and flexs nicely now.
yes I havent used most of the screws on the top deck as well.
yes some things I forgot are;
no blades on the pins for the shafts. axle pins and the out drives wear out very easily.
yes the steering slop. I think someone was drunk when they designed that
you are not using the Yokomo Saver? man you didnt use the best part of the car lol
Spur issue is a biggie for me because I have a full set of 48P Spurs and Pinions. Yoke only makes 64P ones which are useles for me. I have been told about the speedmind gears but I cant get a hold of them. found couple shops that has them but most are in US and most dont send to Turkey. US only. Champ didnt have it. and all others have the 64P. Xenon haven't checked. the only think I ever saw from Xenon is battery tape.
For building the car I did the way you told me loosen the screws etc etc. but the top dec screws wont line up. if you screwthe top fist an bottom later the deck tweaks. I just enlarged the holes and cut the top deck in half so everything fits and flexs nicely now.
yes I havent used most of the screws on the top deck as well.