New Yokomo TC, the BD-5
#436
Tech Addict
#437
roborat:
there was the discussion of how many screws you have to remove / how long it will take to change spurgear
the center layshaft can be taken out in maybe 30 seconds ... so not to much work really
arn0:
will do
______________________________
going to practice outdoors for the first time with bd5 this weekend
will do testing with 3 teammembers in both stock (9.5/5cell) and modified (xT/5cell)
one did one run yesterday on his hometrack and he said he never had a car feel this good in the very first run
so I'm pretty confident it'll be good
there was the discussion of how many screws you have to remove / how long it will take to change spurgear
the center layshaft can be taken out in maybe 30 seconds ... so not to much work really
arn0:
will do
______________________________
going to practice outdoors for the first time with bd5 this weekend
will do testing with 3 teammembers in both stock (9.5/5cell) and modified (xT/5cell)
one did one run yesterday on his hometrack and he said he never had a car feel this good in the very first run
so I'm pretty confident it'll be good
#438
Martin, we need to teach you how to use the close up mode on your camera to get clearer photos.
Question, what effect does moving the steering links to the outer holes on the steering hub result in (just lazy to test)?
And when you measure droop, are you measuring from bench level to the centre - top - bottom of the outer pin?
Yokomo are having a closer look at photos of my car, and I believe the main problem lies in the top deck drilling, I have ordered a new one to check it out further.
After another test run on a large out door track, I am very impressed with the cars performance. So much so, I have to wonder how we made the older BD go so well.
Question, what effect does moving the steering links to the outer holes on the steering hub result in (just lazy to test)?
And when you measure droop, are you measuring from bench level to the centre - top - bottom of the outer pin?
Yokomo are having a closer look at photos of my car, and I believe the main problem lies in the top deck drilling, I have ordered a new one to check it out further.
After another test run on a large out door track, I am very impressed with the cars performance. So much so, I have to wonder how we made the older BD go so well.
#439
ok here is what I do:
after the run clean the car (don't want it to look ugly *g*)
then put it on a glas plate (I do use a glas pitboard)
make sure it's totally flat
then put it on hudy blocks (as I use the fine hudy gauges with the 2/10 steps)
then I measure droop with the gauge (usually 6.0front / 5.2 rear)
then I put on the tires I am going to use in the next run, check rideheight (5.0/5.2 usually)
measure the spring collars to make sure they are equal left and right
then lift the car up in the center
first front, then rear
check if the front/rear tires lift off at exactly the same time
if so, the tire-load is equal on the opposite side of the car
if not, I make sure the shocktowers are straight
then I check camber with a cheap rpm gauge (note: setup systems are not correct!)
rotate the tire by 1/3 of a turn and measure 3 times per tire to make sure camber is correct
then measure front toe-out with a calliper
I usually use 0.2 - 0.3 mm depending on how aggressive I want the car to be
if you done that
you are ready to hit the track again with a perfectly set car
after the run clean the car (don't want it to look ugly *g*)
then put it on a glas plate (I do use a glas pitboard)
make sure it's totally flat
then put it on hudy blocks (as I use the fine hudy gauges with the 2/10 steps)
then I measure droop with the gauge (usually 6.0front / 5.2 rear)
then I put on the tires I am going to use in the next run, check rideheight (5.0/5.2 usually)
measure the spring collars to make sure they are equal left and right
then lift the car up in the center
first front, then rear
check if the front/rear tires lift off at exactly the same time
if so, the tire-load is equal on the opposite side of the car
if not, I make sure the shocktowers are straight
then I check camber with a cheap rpm gauge (note: setup systems are not correct!)
rotate the tire by 1/3 of a turn and measure 3 times per tire to make sure camber is correct
then measure front toe-out with a calliper
I usually use 0.2 - 0.3 mm depending on how aggressive I want the car to be
if you done that
you are ready to hit the track again with a perfectly set car
#440
what I forgot
the wishbones are 7mm thick where the outer hingepin is
which means the center of the hingepin is 3.5mm above the droop value I set
6.0 droop -> 9.5mm pinheight
5.2 droop -> 8.7 pinheight
BTW I had to use my iPhone for taking the pictures as my digicam is broken atm
so no better pics possible *g*
hope you at least can see the most important stuff
the wishbones are 7mm thick where the outer hingepin is
which means the center of the hingepin is 3.5mm above the droop value I set
6.0 droop -> 9.5mm pinheight
5.2 droop -> 8.7 pinheight
BTW I had to use my iPhone for taking the pictures as my digicam is broken atm
so no better pics possible *g*
hope you at least can see the most important stuff
#441
Tech Champion
iTrader: (7)
Martin: oh, i see ... thought it used special spur gears or somthing since there was also talk about using other brands. anyway, thats good to hear. all the info is great, even on how you set your car. trying to get as much info as i can while figuring out how to get my hands on one of these. not available yet locally unfortunately.
#442
I use regular Xenon spurs as they are easiest to get for me
then I use a body reamer to drill 2 holes into the spur
I will do a "how-to" when I arrive at my teammate's
Will leave home in about 45 minutes and am just to get ready ...
pics will follow this afternoon
got to help him and another friend/teammate to build their Bd5s
then we will go to a very good track "nearby" (which means 260km from my home *lol*) and practice sat/sun
I will keep you all updated
then I use a body reamer to drill 2 holes into the spur
I will do a "how-to" when I arrive at my teammate's
Will leave home in about 45 minutes and am just to get ready ...
pics will follow this afternoon
got to help him and another friend/teammate to build their Bd5s
then we will go to a very good track "nearby" (which means 260km from my home *lol*) and practice sat/sun
I will keep you all updated
#443
Here you go
The track was rather flowing with 2 tight hairpins, so cornerspeed and steering was the key thing for quick laptimes.
The car felt very good, tires wore very little even in hot conditions (40+°C tracktemp, 27°C airtemp)
more info later on my blog
The track was rather flowing with 2 tight hairpins, so cornerspeed and steering was the key thing for quick laptimes.
The car felt very good, tires wore very little even in hot conditions (40+°C tracktemp, 27°C airtemp)
more info later on my blog
Last edited by Martin Hofer; 04-28-2009 at 07:22 AM.
#444
bump
#445
Hey all: Doen't know if this has been asked already or not,but some have said that the new yokomo BD-5 is a tamiya trf 416 clone. Can someone clear this up and what the differances are? Finally does yokomo have any usa team drivers? Thanks
#446
what makes the car drive aka the suspension is totally different ...
it may looksimilar but definately is not
it may looksimilar but definately is not
#447
Hello martin,
What is CDF tyre additive
Did you try the LTC-R?
Best regards,
Hugo
What is CDF tyre additive
Did you try the LTC-R?
Best regards,
Hugo
#448
CFD is a addative I mixed my own.
I already used it at the german outdoor nats last year. It seems to work pretty well in the heat.
I have not tried the LTC-R and I am not sure if I will anytime soon ...
I already used it at the german outdoor nats last year. It seems to work pretty well in the heat.
I have not tried the LTC-R and I am not sure if I will anytime soon ...
#449
upper deck not fit some BL Motor .
#450
I don't really know which motor would not fit ...