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Old 04-28-2009, 03:01 AM
  #151  
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36.5 is as he says a rollout figure..another way of gearing...go to
[url]www.gearchart.com. you can do both and also convert one to the other

Last edited by Barger; 04-28-2009 at 03:03 AM. Reason: wrong url
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Old 04-28-2009, 04:36 AM
  #152  
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@stillbill: paralleling capacitors is/was only required if the capacitor was of bad quality, with a good quality (single) capacitor it's not required and therefore not worth the hassle to add another one...
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Old 04-28-2009, 04:59 AM
  #153  
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Originally Posted by CraigM
I had a bit more luck with my SPX Stock Spec/Novak 10.5 over the weekend. I had a full day of practice before a 2 day event so I decide to test rollout and profile options. I started with a 36.5mm rollout on profile 5, the motor temped in the low 40s so I worked my way up to profile 7 with the temp in the low 50s, then profile 8 and it was in the mid 50s (the motor was really coming alive by then). I didn't really need to, but I decided to gear up to 38mm and even then the temps only rose to ~60 (I checked it at 2.5 and 5 min marks to make sure the motor was safe) but I picked up another tenth, so I ran with that gearing all weekend and the motor was fine, never temped above 60degC

I'd suggest 36mm and profile 7 might be a good starting point for that motor on most tracks, and then go from there

Craig - Thanks for the info, but what type of car were you testing gearing/rollout on?

Posting rollouts and temps w/o knowing what type of car this was won't help much. Was it a Foam Sedan, Rubber Tire Sedan, 1/12, or 200mm WGT?

On my 1/12 car, I ran a 68mm Rollout using the LRP SPX on Profile 7 with the LRP X-11 Stock Spec 10.5 with temps around the 155F range.
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Old 04-28-2009, 08:28 AM
  #154  
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Originally Posted by burito
@stillbill: paralleling capacitors is/was only required if the capacitor was of bad quality, with a good quality (single) capacitor it's not required and therefore not worth the hassle to add another one...
Wouldnt replacing the original ones with a larger uF (much larger uF) adds punch and reduces the esc temperature and help counter voltage ripple better?

At least this was the concept uphold for the older brushed systems...
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Old 04-28-2009, 10:56 AM
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No, that is not the case as at some point you will not gain anything anymore as there is sufficient uF and low enough ESR.
You can probably compare it like a change from 10AWG to 8AWG wire, both is very thick and actually "overkill" for the application.

But as I said before, this is the case with our speed-control and with our original capacitor, with other speedo brands it can be different and there it may be an advantage to use "better" capacitors!
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Old 04-28-2009, 01:37 PM
  #156  
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I have now seen a few of the Nosram version of these ESC's die at club meetings, 3 that I know of.

And I have also seen 3 motors killed by them, they were all well within their temp tolerances, about 50-60 degC and geared down slightly.

The only thing these failures seem to have in common is the use of launch controls off the start line.

Do you have any idea's what might be causing these?

We have also noticed that instead of the usual 25 year warranty, the new versions come with a 90day warranty!!!

Worries about reliability?

Skiddins
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Old 04-28-2009, 05:23 PM
  #157  
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Originally Posted by kn7671
Craig - Thanks for the info, but what type of car were you testing gearing/rollout on?
TC/rubber/asphalt

36mm rollout is 5.5 FDR on rubber
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Old 04-28-2009, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Skiddins
I have now seen a few of the Nosram version of these ESC's die at club meetings, 3 that I know of.

And I have also seen 3 motors killed by them, they were all well within their temp tolerances, about 50-60 degC and geared down slightly.

The only thing these failures seem to have in common is the use of launch controls off the start line.

Do you have any idea's what might be causing these?

We have also noticed that instead of the usual 25 year warranty, the new versions come with a 90day warranty!!!

Worries about reliability?

Skiddins
When I first got my SPX It only lasted 3 laps then quit working. I sent it in and they replaced it with a new one for $100 . So good luck with getting a free replacement if the FETS are fried. Mine was only a week old. I was running 13.5 10* timing on the motor
and geared at 4.8fdr and on profile 7 or 8
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Old 04-28-2009, 07:05 PM
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lrp is a great company!!

Last edited by mickrcarver; 05-01-2009 at 08:17 AM.
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Old 04-28-2009, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by mickrcarver
sent mine back over a month and a week ago still waiting they say there coming fom germany ,missing alot of racing!!
It took 2 months to get mine back
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Old 04-28-2009, 07:53 PM
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had to edit this,as LRP definitly made everything RIGHT!!

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Old 04-28-2009, 08:39 PM
  #162  
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Hey guys, I just got the spx. Wanted to get your advice regarding gearing for 17.5 for our asphalt track. At this time I run a duo at 3.5 FDR. I want to try to run the 7 or 8 th profiles but would like to know what you think. Should I run the motor advanced timing in the middle hole? or go to the zero timing hole? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 04-28-2009, 08:46 PM
  #163  
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Originally Posted by picco007
Hey guys, I just got the spx. Wanted to get your advice regarding gearing for 17.5 for our asphalt track. At this time I run a duo at 3.5 FDR. I want to try to run the 7 or 8 th profiles but would like to know what you think. Should I run the motor advanced timing in the middle hole? or go to the zero timing hole? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Middle hole on timing and around a 5.0 to start with profile 7. Should get you close. Check the motor temp after a few laps to make sure your close.

EA
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Old 04-28-2009, 09:02 PM
  #164  
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Originally Posted by EAMotorsports
Middle hole on timing and around a 5.0 to start with profile 7. Should get you close. Check the motor temp after a few laps to make sure your close.

EA
EA what about with a 13.5 duo with profile 7
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Old 04-28-2009, 09:04 PM
  #165  
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Originally Posted by EAMotorsports
Middle hole on timing and around a 5.0 to start with profile 7. Should get you close. Check the motor temp after a few laps to make sure your close.

EA

Thanks EA! Will do.

Ronnie
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