Tamiya TRF415
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
Been dealing with a lack of steering/understeering issue with my MSX. Racing outdoors on ashphalt, medium grip, tight twisty track. Removed the front and rear stabilizer bars, moved the front shocks (yellow spring/40wt oil) to the second inside hole on the top plate, and left the rear shocks as manual specs. Seems to make the steering response heaps better, but still got a little too much understeer.
Running Stock with a EA Monster motor. Running 1deg front toe out, 2 deg rear toe in, about 1 deg camber all round, 3mm droop at the front, 2mm at rear, 4 deg caster block, no spacers under the toe blocks and 4.5mm ride height all round.
Any hints/tips to lessen the understeer?
Running Stock with a EA Monster motor. Running 1deg front toe out, 2 deg rear toe in, about 1 deg camber all round, 3mm droop at the front, 2mm at rear, 4 deg caster block, no spacers under the toe blocks and 4.5mm ride height all round.
Any hints/tips to lessen the understeer?
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
You could probably try 2deg caster or put a shim under the front suspension rear block (.5mm-1mm to start)
Charles
Charles
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Burlap,
When are you lacking steering, off power, on power, entry, exit etc. ?
I will send you 2 different asphalt setups for you to try.
~ Jack
When are you lacking steering, off power, on power, entry, exit etc. ?
I will send you 2 different asphalt setups for you to try.
~ Jack
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
Originally Posted by Jack2
Burlap,
When are you lacking steering, off power, on power, entry, exit etc. ?
I will send you 2 different asphalt setups for you to try.
~ Jack
When are you lacking steering, off power, on power, entry, exit etc. ?
I will send you 2 different asphalt setups for you to try.
~ Jack
I found after removing the stabilizer bars that the car did lessen its power on understeering, sometimes snapping to power on oversteer coming out of a corner on cold tyres. Plus the steering was far more reactive with the bars off. With the bars on, there seemed to be a mircosecond for the car to react to the controller and not happy with changing direction quickly, whereas it is happier now with the lack of bars. It seems that most of the drivers don't use the bars at this track.
I find, compared to the other 415s/Evo IV at my track that I really need to slow down more before the corner unless I want to paint my car the same yellow as the walls, whereas the other cars seem to be almost full throttling through the faster corners and don't have to slow down that much with tighter corners.
Try adding a bit of bump steer by removing 1mm off the shims under the steering link plate, this should help with your off power steering.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (15)
Originally Posted by Burlap
It seems to have understeer, even with no power on, at the start of the corner, coming up to the apex. Once you put some power on it does remove a bit of the understeer, but not all of it.
I found after removing the stabilizer bars that the car did lessen its power on understeering, sometimes snapping to power on oversteer coming out of a corner on cold tyres. Plus the steering was far more reactive with the bars off. With the bars on, there seemed to be a mircosecond for the car to react to the controller and not happy with changing direction quickly, whereas it is happier now with the lack of bars. It seems that most of the drivers don't use the bars at this track.
I find, compared to the other 415s/Evo IV at my track that I really need to slow down more before the corner unless I want to paint my car the same yellow as the walls, whereas the other cars seem to be almost full throttling through the faster corners and don't have to slow down that much with tighter corners.
I found after removing the stabilizer bars that the car did lessen its power on understeering, sometimes snapping to power on oversteer coming out of a corner on cold tyres. Plus the steering was far more reactive with the bars off. With the bars on, there seemed to be a mircosecond for the car to react to the controller and not happy with changing direction quickly, whereas it is happier now with the lack of bars. It seems that most of the drivers don't use the bars at this track.
I find, compared to the other 415s/Evo IV at my track that I really need to slow down more before the corner unless I want to paint my car the same yellow as the walls, whereas the other cars seem to be almost full throttling through the faster corners and don't have to slow down that much with tighter corners.
Anyone know the differential bearing sizes? Feeling lazy and don't want to tear into my car to find out.
Hey guys i need part number for building a front DIFF for the Tamiya 415. (Tamiya is stupid and its very hard to find it on there website) ALSO if anyone has a picture of it, i would be very happy! =)
Originally Posted by Sushi Man
Hey guys i need part number for building a front DIFF for the Tamiya 415. (Tamiya is stupid and its very hard to find it on there website) ALSO if anyone has a picture of it, i would be very happy! =)
http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/fe...?article-id=79
you might want to bookmark it
Tech Elite
iTrader: (27)
Originally Posted by RayWarner
Anyone know the differential bearing sizes? Feeling lazy and don't want to tear into my car to find out.
Tech Regular
Or 1510 size.
Tech Adept
What will cause one wheel to spin longer than the other? I chacked the bearings and seems to be ok.
Originally Posted by natskiboy
What will cause one wheel to spin longer than the other? I chacked the bearings and seems to be ok.
Hi Sushi Man,
If you are talking in Front Ball Diff, as far as I know, there is no available from Tamiya. You should get some Yokomo parts to build one.
Parts Needed:
Yokomo ZS-501 Diff Halves or ZS-502S for steel outdrives
Yokomo ZS-506 Diff Rings or Tamiya 50880 TA04 Ball Diff Plate Set
Yokomo ZS-507 Thrust Balls and Washers
Yokomo ZS-508 Diff Screw and Locknut
Yokomo ZC-S100 10.0mm spacer shim set
Tamiya 51055 TRF415 Ball Diff Pulley
Tamiya 53379 3mm Lightweight Diff Balls
2qty Tamiya 53030 Ball Bearings
2qty Tamiya 53126 Ball Bearings
cheers
If you are talking in Front Ball Diff, as far as I know, there is no available from Tamiya. You should get some Yokomo parts to build one.
Parts Needed:
Yokomo ZS-501 Diff Halves or ZS-502S for steel outdrives
Yokomo ZS-506 Diff Rings or Tamiya 50880 TA04 Ball Diff Plate Set
Yokomo ZS-507 Thrust Balls and Washers
Yokomo ZS-508 Diff Screw and Locknut
Yokomo ZC-S100 10.0mm spacer shim set
Tamiya 51055 TRF415 Ball Diff Pulley
Tamiya 53379 3mm Lightweight Diff Balls
2qty Tamiya 53030 Ball Bearings
2qty Tamiya 53126 Ball Bearings
cheers
Tech Champion
iTrader: (42)
Originally Posted by neosan
Hi Sushi Man,
If you are talking in Front Ball Diff, as far as I know, there is no available from Tamiya. You should get some Yokomo parts to build one.
Parts Needed:
Yokomo ZS-501 Diff Halves or ZS-502S for steel outdrives
Yokomo ZS-506 Diff Rings or Tamiya 50880 TA04 Ball Diff Plate Set
Yokomo ZS-507 Thrust Balls and Washers
Yokomo ZS-508 Diff Screw and Locknut
Yokomo ZC-S100 10.0mm spacer shim set
Tamiya 51055 TRF415 Ball Diff Pulley
Tamiya 53379 3mm Lightweight Diff Balls
2qty Tamiya 53030 Ball Bearings
2qty Tamiya 53126 Ball Bearings
cheers
If you are talking in Front Ball Diff, as far as I know, there is no available from Tamiya. You should get some Yokomo parts to build one.
Parts Needed:
Yokomo ZS-501 Diff Halves or ZS-502S for steel outdrives
Yokomo ZS-506 Diff Rings or Tamiya 50880 TA04 Ball Diff Plate Set
Yokomo ZS-507 Thrust Balls and Washers
Yokomo ZS-508 Diff Screw and Locknut
Yokomo ZC-S100 10.0mm spacer shim set
Tamiya 51055 TRF415 Ball Diff Pulley
Tamiya 53379 3mm Lightweight Diff Balls
2qty Tamiya 53030 Ball Bearings
2qty Tamiya 53126 Ball Bearings
cheers
As soon as I set up with a host I will be posting my new site. Then I'll relist the diff pics and instructions I had up awhile back. I will also have a few custom painted Tamiya bodies for sale on the site as well. Most likely NSX's. by Slik FX