3LikesTamiya TRF415
01-19-2006, 12:48 AM
guys, does you msx have any understeer problems? mine has especially when slowing down the curves i'm running 23turn motor with 37T pinion and a tamiya front spool 
01-19-2006, 12:54 AM
Originally Posted by buboy28
guys, does you msx have any understeer problems? mine has especially when slowing down the curves i'm running 23turn motor with 37T pinion and a tamiya front spool
another option will be changing the shock mounting position, try to move the front shock mounting one hole lower.
01-19-2006, 01:40 AM
Tech Master
Originally Posted by buboy28
guys, does you msx have any understeer problems? mine has especially when slowing down the curves i'm running 23turn motor with 37T pinion and a tamiya front spool
Its up to the setup of the car...
Do you have toe out up front??
01-19-2006, 02:31 AM
Tech Regular
you need to set the front wishbones to toe out between 0.5 1 degree make the car have more agressive entry along with 1 to 2 degrees toe out at the wheels.
You also need to run the front end a bit softer to get the weight off the inside front. Don't run roll bars as they will try and slow the lateral weight transfer. It needs to be done so the inside front tyre can slide so you get some differentiation effect.
Running spools the car should feel a loose when driving, not fishtailing over steer but it feels loose but controlable.
Play around with the droop setting though I cannot remember what does what, off the top of my head. Some one can elaborate for about this for me.
Also look at you gear ratios if you run a small pinion and big spur your creating torque this can act as an high drag brake and the car has to over come the drive train drag of the spur pinion as well as the motor
You also need to run the front end a bit softer to get the weight off the inside front. Don't run roll bars as they will try and slow the lateral weight transfer. It needs to be done so the inside front tyre can slide so you get some differentiation effect.
Running spools the car should feel a loose when driving, not fishtailing over steer but it feels loose but controlable.
Play around with the droop setting though I cannot remember what does what, off the top of my head. Some one can elaborate for about this for me.
Also look at you gear ratios if you run a small pinion and big spur your creating torque this can act as an high drag brake and the car has to over come the drive train drag of the spur pinion as well as the motor
Last edited by Smoking motor..; 01-19-2006 at 04:12 PM.
01-19-2006, 08:15 AM
Originally Posted by KilRuf
If you are running the LW suspension, then you only need the HPI front spindles if you want to run Jaco tires. If you want to run Parma's, then the stock spindles work with the silver 6mm wheel hexes and a red (1mm) axle shim.
Now if you want to run the Jaco tires (2 stage for example), then you'll need the HPI Pro4 steering knuckles/spindles. I run the HPI aluminum knuckles. Square also makes aluminum knuckles for the Pro4. Then you will need a .75mm shim to put ontop of the knuckle to take up the slack that it has with the caster block. My setup is to use the Pro4 MIP CVD axles and rebuild kit with Corrally steel dog bones. This lets the bones sit into the Yokomo diff nicely and CVD's are nice as well. If you use the standard (not LW) Tamiya axle with Tamiya dogbone... then you'll need tons and ton's of shims to take out the play from the axles and axle bearing to wheel hex. I can post a pic of my setup if you'd like.
Another option would be to use the whole Pro4 front suspension. Arms and all. They fit. This lets you use all their caster blocks... 0/2/4/6 degree's.....
Now if you want to run the Jaco tires (2 stage for example), then you'll need the HPI Pro4 steering knuckles/spindles. I run the HPI aluminum knuckles. Square also makes aluminum knuckles for the Pro4. Then you will need a .75mm shim to put ontop of the knuckle to take up the slack that it has with the caster block. My setup is to use the Pro4 MIP CVD axles and rebuild kit with Corrally steel dog bones. This lets the bones sit into the Yokomo diff nicely and CVD's are nice as well. If you use the standard (not LW) Tamiya axle with Tamiya dogbone... then you'll need tons and ton's of shims to take out the play from the axles and axle bearing to wheel hex. I can post a pic of my setup if you'd like.
Another option would be to use the whole Pro4 front suspension. Arms and all. They fit. This lets you use all their caster blocks... 0/2/4/6 degree's.....
01-19-2006, 08:17 AM
Like dodo said, try a one-way 
Charles
Charles
01-19-2006, 08:27 AM
Originally Posted by m8commando
I cannot beilieve a kit cost $429, and you have to buy other manufacturer's equipment to run on carpet. I dont understand that at all.
01-19-2006, 12:14 PM
Tech Regular
Tamiya only design cars to run with rubber tires. They were the pioneer of 1/10 Scale Touring Car with rubber tires.
01-19-2006, 12:15 PM
perhaps this will all change with the release of the 4mm chassis.....just wish they would hurry 
01-19-2006, 12:16 PM
or perhaps we need to enforce rubber tires for carpet racing...
01-19-2006, 04:15 PM
ok guys, thanks for all the input will try them all one at a time then will get back to you and one more thing the spool chatters and i thought only the steel spool chatters not the tamiya ones 
01-19-2006, 04:18 PM
Originally Posted by buboy28
ok guys, thanks for all the input will try them all one at a time then will get back to you and one more thing the spool chatters and i thought only the steel spool chatters not the tamiya ones
01-19-2006, 04:20 PM
All spools chatter to some extent, is simply because of the type of driveshafts we use (not true CVDs). Check your axle ball joints and cups for excessive wear, as this could be a problem.
HiH
Ed
HiH
Ed
01-19-2006, 07:11 PM
Tech Master
Originally Posted by Carl Giordano
or perhaps we need to enforce rubber tires for carpet racing...
Leave the foams to nitro and rubber to electric...
01-19-2006, 07:18 PM
Tech Regular
Yes, I agree that rubber tires should always to be used on electric cars. Foam is only for 1/12 scale and nitro.