V12

iTrader: (1)

Hmm itīs the first time I hear this. Usually always people say the 415 is very easy to drive and also itīs easy being fast with this car. So donīt know what to say if the same car works for an other driver but not for you. Maybe you could try cars from other drivers at your track maybe this makes a difference. Otherwise you maybe have to change your driving style. But I have to say I also try driving smooth and the 415 works for me.

Jonas

HMMMM, thanks for reply, maybe i just need more practices with this car....and as you advice maybe change my drive....but always find that i'm slow ....... Anyway can't go to others.....So i have to deal with it........

Thank Jonas

JP

Hello
Could someone please help with a set-up sheet for a 415MS. I have been using the solid layshaft, spool and take off tires. Car drives really good but would simply like to know what others are using.
Also the car is alot shorter than the std 415, has one tried a longer version of the 415MS ?

Thanks in advance
JP

Nexus

iTrader: (42)

I read through this forum and noticed some of the guys who ran foam still used the 415 in stock form......double oneways.

That seemed really strange since no one really runs oneways with foams. Just wondering if anyone who did that could give me feedback on it. I would guess that would have an insane amount of steering.

I plan to run foams this weekend but the yokomo/tamiya diff parts won't be here on time.

If you didn't have the front diff yet...would you think it would be best to run the oneway and direct center pulley or double oneways...

Just looking for other peoples opinions for those who have tried it.

ttso

iTrader: (1)

I got my 415 with brushless on ground for the first time on last Friday. I used to drive TC3 with aggressive way (late brake, early throttle), but with 415 I use the easy driving style and I found it's much easier and relax to drive with (speed? not fare compare between brush and brushless).

Than it came Sunday, another day in track, but this time with NTC3. I somehow adapted the 415 driving style with NTC3 (and somehow car is extremely tuned with that style) and got my best laptime ever. And most important, I didn't kill any parts on Sunday which I did lots when I was using aggressive driving style. And I feel relax during the play.

So I guess everyone's driving style is different in someway, and setup must match those style to get good result. Your friend driving the car with great laptime doesn't mean the setting works for you, even you think the driving style is similar. In fact, yourself might own more than 1 driving style, even using 2 different style in the same lap. So maybe you should just try some different setting and see how it works, and find out the most relax way to drive the car. The result might shock you, it did for me....

SCML

Ok, according to the manual on the MS, I should have 1.5 degrees of rear toe on my car, but maybe I can't do math. I'm using the 1C rear blcok, and the 1X front block.

Stock setup should 1 deg with blocks, and 1 with hubs, total 2, right? 1X block in the manual says +0.5, so that should give me 1.5 total with 1C/1X combo, and I'm using 0 deg hubs. 1.5, right?

Measures on my setup jig as 2, so I'm a little confused. Any help?

Thanks,

Mike

Steve Weiss

Maybe it got lost in translation... maybe a metric degree is different than a standard degree?

SCML

in my wound....

I bet your right Steve, maybe I'll make up a reference table to remove the .5 deg that metric measurements add.

Seriously, I'm wondering if my setup jig is not telling the truth either. It shows 2 deg/side, total toe of 4 deg! No wonder it won't turn... Are these measurements per side, say on the XXX-S when you run the 1/2 deg hubs on the "wrong" sides, do you really end up with 3 deg total toe? I'll throw it on the jig tonight and check that.

Mike

Ill Factor

iTrader: (2)

Has anyone used these with the standard kit? If so have you found them to actually be worth $59.00.

Has anyone tried using the 415MS shock towers with the standard kit? Again how did the work compared to originals?

dawgmeat

iTrader: (9)

I've used 1-ways and a front diff, I kinda like the 1-way better on carpet" OFF-POWER STEERING"

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Might be the setup jig, with a quick reference to my toe block chart (hint hint, check in my sig, I changed it recently for 0, 1 and 2deg hubs), X/C should give 1.5 deg of toe-in with 0deg hubs. I assume your using the alloy 0deg hubs?

On my gauges, i used to have problems with the plastic hubs, specifically on the lwt (aka MS) suspension, but with the alloy hubs, I no longer have that problem.

Not really sure what more i can say....

Ill Factor - I have the MS towers on my car, although when running the std suspension I found it very difficult to get correct rear ride height (i'm using the alloy shock collers mind) with the MS tower. So for the LWt suspension I'll use the MS tower, and the STD suspension the Std tower.
I have actually eneded up drilling a 5th hole in my std rear tower (using the MS one as a guide), so I can run the same shock positions with either suspension.
However the front MS tower is fine with either type.

Performance wise, I can't really comment, haven't had too much chance too test back to back, i just know they work

Regards
Ed

dawgmeat

iTrader: (9)

as soon as you get you front diff, I would leave everything stock except for the following:yellow front sway bar, if you need more traction use the blue, oil 50 all the way around, springs AE purple front/red rear, leave the rear sway bar off but if you need more steering install rear sway

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

What up guys, I have an extra Jurgen aluminum 415 spool with 6 pairs of blades. $70 shipped. It's the last one.

Hebiki

iTrader: (26)

dumb question (sorry guys ) but where do you buy replacement blades?

JohnMatrix

Hebki,

Go to sleep,