Tamiya TRF415
#2161
I've run Tamiya's ti axles in both my Evo3 and 415. I'd suggest that you put them in once you've got a good setup and would like that extra little rip coming out of corners. It's not really a must have item, but if you want all out performance, it provides a big weight savings compared with the steel axles, and that's rotating mass.
Durability:
I still have the same set front and rear in my Evo3 running 19T and Stock with no signs of visible wear. These have been built using Maxima chain lube and have never been rebuilt (3 months old?)
I also have them installed in my 415 and the rears fine. The front right's pin holes are now ellipses. These were also built with Maxima lube and I've already replaced the fronts with new axles for an upcoming race. Keep in mind, this set lasted approximately 8 weekends of running modified motors between 6-9 turns and a spool, so wear is significantly increased.
I hope this helps.
Durability:
I still have the same set front and rear in my Evo3 running 19T and Stock with no signs of visible wear. These have been built using Maxima chain lube and have never been rebuilt (3 months old?)
I also have them installed in my 415 and the rears fine. The front right's pin holes are now ellipses. These were also built with Maxima lube and I've already replaced the fronts with new axles for an upcoming race. Keep in mind, this set lasted approximately 8 weekends of running modified motors between 6-9 turns and a spool, so wear is significantly increased.
I hope this helps.
Last edited by rtypec; 05-18-2004 at 08:22 AM.
#2162
Re: Titanium Axles
Originally posted by jpn
Anyone using the Square or Tamiya optional titanium axles? Do any of them really make a difference in the performace of the car? In what way and by how much? Which of the two is better? Could they also be used in the front or just the rear durability wise? Thanks.
Anyone using the Square or Tamiya optional titanium axles? Do any of them really make a difference in the performace of the car? In what way and by how much? Which of the two is better? Could they also be used in the front or just the rear durability wise? Thanks.
#2163
Originally posted by Grindog001
i think it is out of stock there. if it is the $17.99 pulley
is there anywhere else or will they be in stock soon?
i think it is out of stock there. if it is the $17.99 pulley
is there anywhere else or will they be in stock soon?
Steve Wang
#2164
Tech Lord
iTrader: (26)
Originally posted by rtypec
I've run Tamiya's ti axles in both my Evo3 and 415. I'd suggest that you put them in once you've got a good setup and would like that extra little rip coming out of corners. It's not really a must have item, but if you want all out performance, it provides a big weight savings compared with the steel axles, and that's rotating mass.
Durability:
I still have the same set front and rear in my Evo3 running 19T and Stock with no signs of visible wear. These have been built using Maxima chain lube and have never been rebuilt (3 months old?)
I also have them installed in my 415 and the rears fine. The front right's pin holes are now ellipses. These were also built with Maxima lube and I've already replaced the fronts with new axles for an upcoming race. Keep in mind, this set lasted approximately 8 weekends of running modified motors between 6-9 turns and a spool, so wear is significantly increased.
I hope this helps.
I've run Tamiya's ti axles in both my Evo3 and 415. I'd suggest that you put them in once you've got a good setup and would like that extra little rip coming out of corners. It's not really a must have item, but if you want all out performance, it provides a big weight savings compared with the steel axles, and that's rotating mass.
Durability:
I still have the same set front and rear in my Evo3 running 19T and Stock with no signs of visible wear. These have been built using Maxima chain lube and have never been rebuilt (3 months old?)
I also have them installed in my 415 and the rears fine. The front right's pin holes are now ellipses. These were also built with Maxima lube and I've already replaced the fronts with new axles for an upcoming race. Keep in mind, this set lasted approximately 8 weekends of running modified motors between 6-9 turns and a spool, so wear is significantly increased.
I hope this helps.
prior it was primarily stock and i didnt see any wear. so if you just run it in stock, you should be okay for a long time.
#2166
Originally posted by over gear
rtypec: wanna share your latest 415 setup for the tamiya track?
rtypec: wanna share your latest 415 setup for the tamiya track?
Click me for 415 Setup :P
*Disclaimer: This setup may not suit everybody's driving style.
Last edited by rtypec; 05-18-2004 at 12:00 PM.
#2167
Originally posted by rtypec
I wonder if I can shave another half by doing a complete chassis rebuild and sacrificing a live goat to the racing gods.
I wonder if I can shave another half by doing a complete chassis rebuild and sacrificing a live goat to the racing gods.
#2168
Tech Master
iTrader: (18)
Originally posted by rtypec
It's not too different from the last setup I posted. I tried a lot of things and ended up going back to my original setup (I know it could be faster but I guess I'm getting too used to this one). However, I did change to C/A blocks in the front. Also, I adjust rear camber from 1.5 to 1.25 degrees (okay 1.25 is like line edge to line edge on the setup station ) depending on time of day. Laptimes have improved by a tenth or two with fastest being 13.57. I wonder if I can shave another half by doing a complete chassis rebuild and sacrificing a live goat to the racing gods.
Click me for 415 Setup :P
*Disclaimer: This setup may not suit everybody's driving style.
It's not too different from the last setup I posted. I tried a lot of things and ended up going back to my original setup (I know it could be faster but I guess I'm getting too used to this one). However, I did change to C/A blocks in the front. Also, I adjust rear camber from 1.5 to 1.25 degrees (okay 1.25 is like line edge to line edge on the setup station ) depending on time of day. Laptimes have improved by a tenth or two with fastest being 13.57. I wonder if I can shave another half by doing a complete chassis rebuild and sacrificing a live goat to the racing gods.
Click me for 415 Setup :P
*Disclaimer: This setup may not suit everybody's driving style.
#2170
I believe this will sweep the wheels farther when turning left and right, similar to having more Ackerman, to get more turn in. But I have not tried this yet, so for me it's all assumption and speculation.
#2172
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Originally posted by over gear
C/A front blocks?? what is it for?
C/A front blocks?? what is it for?
Having the front hinge pins toe-out increases steering...entering a corner, mid corner, corner exit. Losi started it with the XXX-s, but it works well on just about every car. When you make this change, you will also have to adjust your front toe.
#2173
It provides more aggressive steering. Try it, you might like it
edit: Hey Ling, it was kinda ironic that Beale brought his "racing vehicle dynamics" books with him to the track to point out exactly what's wrong with our toy car setups and logic...but nowhere in the books does it say how to fix it. Typical engineer books that are good at defining but not so good with applying... Oddly enough, one of the books said that front inboard toe out or anything that promotes roll steer, is bad. Go figure
edit: Hey Ling, it was kinda ironic that Beale brought his "racing vehicle dynamics" books with him to the track to point out exactly what's wrong with our toy car setups and logic...but nowhere in the books does it say how to fix it. Typical engineer books that are good at defining but not so good with applying... Oddly enough, one of the books said that front inboard toe out or anything that promotes roll steer, is bad. Go figure
Last edited by rtypec; 05-18-2004 at 02:19 PM.
#2175
Tech Regular
is there a differnce between setting your toe out with suspension blocks or setting it with the steering turnbuckles?