3LikesTamiya TRF415
08-19-2006, 10:47 AM
Originally Posted by nordheim
lots of things.
08-19-2006, 11:06 AM
Originally Posted by stegger
Sorry i meant the CF bottom deck?
08-19-2006, 01:34 PM
Originally Posted by stegger
Sorry i meant the CF bottom deck?
08-19-2006, 01:52 PM
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anyone have the manuf. part # for the yokomo outdrives for the front diff? thanks.
08-19-2006, 02:11 PM
Originally Posted by HarshGuy
MRE is different as it uses a different steering rack.
08-19-2006, 02:12 PM
Originally Posted by HotrodHopkins
anyone have the manuf. part # for the yokomo outdrives for the front diff? thanks.
08-19-2006, 02:21 PM
Originally Posted by nordheim
That is true but I think he asked the question if anything is different on the chassis between the original 415, ms and msx. The MRE has a completely different steering rack as it uses the EVO5 steering.
08-19-2006, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Nexus Racing
Yokomo ZS-501
08-20-2006, 04:10 AM
Why do you want the part number for the Yokomo diff joint that fits the 415? Tamiya make their own front diff for the 415 now.
08-20-2006, 04:43 AM
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cause i only need the outdrive for one side, my dogbone came out and chewed up the outside.
08-20-2006, 05:59 AM
Originally Posted by kewdawg
Guys.
Just bought a front diff on Ebay, for this year's carpet season, which seems to have started prematurely - around here.
Can someone tell me what suspension blocks give 3 degrees of front inboard toe and 1 degree of rear inboard toe using the standard o degree rear hubs (I, still, haven't quite figured out the chart, yet)? Also, which sway bars work with the 415? Is it the TA05 or the Evo V?
Thanks in advance.
Just bought a front diff on Ebay, for this year's carpet season, which seems to have started prematurely - around here.
Can someone tell me what suspension blocks give 3 degrees of front inboard toe and 1 degree of rear inboard toe using the standard o degree rear hubs (I, still, haven't quite figured out the chart, yet)? Also, which sway bars work with the 415? Is it the TA05 or the Evo V?Thanks in advance.
Rear toe 1 deg, options D/B, C/A, B/X A/XA, X/XB, XA/XC, or XB/XD..... pick your track width (widest to narrowest)
And roll bars, its the TA05 set your want. Evo5 has a different rear bar.
08-20-2006, 06:50 AM
just sold my msx and thingking of getting the mre but would like to know if the msx one way will fit with the mre or do i have to get the TA-05 one way 
our lhs told me that the mre comes with a spool dont know if this is true so have to look for a one way if this is true
our lhs told me that the mre comes with a spool dont know if this is true so have to look for a one way if this is true
08-20-2006, 07:52 AM
what are the differences between the MSX and MRE??? Lookie,i don't have 520 usd to burn,so i'm looking at the MSX.Is it just as good???How is the reliability???How's the user friendliness???Is it easy to access the diffs??can someone post a pic of the bulkheads so i can get a rough idea how easy it is to remove the diffs.Any hop-ups needed???What parts to stock up on???And coming back to the initial question,is there a mile difference between the two??Thanks.
08-20-2006, 09:09 AM
MRE Belt
"MRE" owers.....Are you guy run the belt tension that the manual calls for. It seem way too tight, more so in the Rear. 
I had the car pretty much dailed, but my motors the X/COS27t seem like they could not power this beast. I played with the gears on the "X" between 102s/30p-35p, on a back straight runinng off of a sweep 30yards or so, I end up leaving in the 30p it was the only pin that kept the motor from burning up 
....they all seem to have about the same Top end. "I do not know" but I think its the belt putting too much strain on the motors. The COS around 34p-36p was no different... My sold MSX did not have probelms burning up the back straight. I read b4 (this is not me saying this) that with a higher final drive (2:1) requires a bigger pin vs. a car with same spur running with a lower FD (1.6:1) to get the car up the speed. I (know there are different Variables), but I want to say that did not work good for this car..with the fact that there are MSX's at my track and I couldn't produce the speed to run with them on the striaght. 
Any input Guy..?
:ONEWAY (will not fit MRE[pulley]) is a great tuning option, but so is the spool and the Diff.....yeah you will not have the conering speed..but its a very small difference. What you lack in coner speed you will gain in braking. Braking can win races!
: There are enough differences between the MRE and the MSX to not do a conversion. You might spend over $250+USD on upgrades on top of a $400USD new car sound like $650USD invested....the best way would be sale and pay the different. My difference came up to about $175...I can live with that. Even is you got a used one for $200 you will spend more money than buying a New MRE....is it worth it, maybe and maybe not...it more of a want type of car. I am guilty I wanted it
.....I did not need it...it doesn't make me any faster/actually slower until I figure out what is slowing this car down. It is not as forgiving to set up errors like the Cyclone (that car will drive fast under the worst wreching conditions ). But it is Tamiya top car and if that is good enough.....buy now 
b4 you be buying used! 
It seem way too tight, more so in the Rear. I had the car pretty much dailed, but my motors the X/COS27t seem like they could not power this beast. I played with the gears on the "X" between 102s/30p-35p, on a back straight runinng off of a sweep 30yards or so, I end up leaving in the 30p it was the only pin that kept the motor from burning up ....they all seem to have about the same Top end. "I do not know" but I think its the belt putting too much strain on the motors. The COS around 34p-36p was no different... My sold MSX did not have probelms burning up the back straight. I read b4 (this is not me saying this) that with a higher final drive (2:1) requires a bigger pin vs. a car with same spur running with a lower FD (1.6:1) to get the car up the speed. I (know there are different Variables), but I want to say that did not work good for this car..with the fact that there are MSX's at my track and I couldn't produce the speed to run with them on the striaght. Any input Guy..?
:ONEWAY (will not fit MRE[pulley]) is a great tuning option, but so is the spool and the Diff.....yeah you will not have the conering speed..but its a very small difference. What you lack in coner speed you will gain in braking. Braking can win races!
: There are enough differences between the MRE and the MSX to not do a conversion. You might spend over $250+USD on upgrades on top of a $400USD new car sound like $650USD invested....the best way would be sale and pay the different. My difference came up to about $175...I can live with that. Even is you got a used one for $200 you will spend more money than buying a New MRE....is it worth it, maybe and maybe not...it more of a want type of car. I am guilty I wanted it
.....I did not need it...it doesn't make me any faster/actually slower until I figure out what is slowing this car down. It is not as forgiving to set up errors like the Cyclone (that car will drive fast under the worst wreching conditions ). But it is Tamiya top car and if that is good enough.....buy now b4 you be buying used!
08-20-2006, 11:47 AM
Originally Posted by m3ndo5a
"MRE" owers.....Are you guy run the belt tension that the manual calls for. It seem way too tight, more so in the Rear. I had the car pretty much dailed, but my motors the X/COS27t seem like they could not power this beast. I played with the gears on the "X" between 102s/30p-35p, on a back straight runinng off of a sweep 30yards or so, I end up leaving in the 30p it was the only pin that kept the motor from burning up ....they all seem to have about the same Top end. "I do not know" but I think its the belt putting too much strain on the motors. The COS around 34p-36p was no different... My sold MSX did not have probelms burning up the back straight. I read b4 (this is not me saying this) that with a higher final drive (2:1) requires a bigger pin vs. a car with same spur running with a lower FD (1.6:1) to get the car up the speed. I (know there are different Variables), but I want to say that did not work good for this car..with the fact that there are MSX's at my track and I couldn't produce the speed to run with them on the striaght.
Any input Guy..?
It seem way too tight, more so in the Rear. I had the car pretty much dailed, but my motors the X/COS27t seem like they could not power this beast. I played with the gears on the "X" between 102s/30p-35p, on a back straight runinng off of a sweep 30yards or so, I end up leaving in the 30p it was the only pin that kept the motor from burning up ....they all seem to have about the same Top end. "I do not know" but I think its the belt putting too much strain on the motors. The COS around 34p-36p was no different... My sold MSX did not have probelms burning up the back straight. I read b4 (this is not me saying this) that with a higher final drive (2:1) requires a bigger pin vs. a car with same spur running with a lower FD (1.6:1) to get the car up the speed. I (know there are different Variables), but I want to say that did not work good for this car..with the fact that there are MSX's at my track and I couldn't produce the speed to run with them on the striaght. Any input Guy..?
I have mine set at
Front; 1 click tighter from centre
Rear; 2 clicks tighter from centre
Did you break the car in beforehand? I always try and run at least one pack through the car on the bench before it's first meeting, just to make sure everything is bedded in properly.
regarding the gearing, you do need to gear up versus the old car. For example, a 30/102 combination would give an FDR of 7.438 on the old car, and 7.650 on the MRE. This results in roughly a pinion difference.
I know the X is ment to be quite revy, maybe dropping to a 29 might help?
Regards
Ed