Awesomatix EP Touring Car (A700 Shaft Drive)
#1217
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Having said that, I am keeping hold of my 7 for the time being, although on the face of it, it's going on sabatical! Need to get this car out with a mod outdoors, I do still have some reservations about it with a high powered motor, but won't have the opportunity to test with such a motor for a while.
But in stock motors... well, different story
#1218
Hi,
just posting to saying thanks to Oleg for getting my part to me fast.Support from Oleg is fantastic if anything is wrong.thanks
just posting to saying thanks to Oleg for getting my part to me fast.Support from Oleg is fantastic if anything is wrong.thanks
#1220
what are the spares you guys ordered along with the kit? i'm really tempted to buy one and would like to have spares bought just in case
#1221
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
http://www.rctech.net/forum/9984890-post1002.html
E
#1222
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
1x FA - First Aid kit
1x IAS - Increase Ackerman set (for future tests!)
1x LA1 - Long arm set
1x C04 - suspension arm - so to have two spares in addition to the one in the FA kit)
1x P04 - Arm Hasp (x4) -
2x ST11 - Round Bushing (x8) - in all honesty, didn't need two sets, as I get the feeling these will last a while!
1x AT14 - Turnbuckle - just to get some spares in case of breakage!
But like I said, so far, nothing has broken, even after clipping a few barriers, so the concerns on durability are low
HiH
Ed
#1223
#1224
I have to say that the time where i raced the tamiya cars..I was a realy fan of your forum ...now with the A700 I have to put it again into my favorites...
I looked your setup and you said the car is midcorner to direct and hard to drive...
for me this is because of the reactive caster ..2mm is a lot in difference, try just 1mm or 0,5mm.
and then switch the rollcenter in front and rear
front 0mm/0,5mm
rear 0,5mm/0,5mm
when you run the rollcenter to low at the rear you become no temperatur into the tires and the car will be more and more nervous at the back the longer the run takes.
when you have your Tamiya at the track please make a test..
run your tamiya and after the run please messure the temperatur of the tires directly and then do the same with the A700. When the temperatur on the tamiya is higher you need more roll into the A700.
- less downstops
- higher rollcenter
on your dampers you run softer in front then in the back... this normaly I only can run with sorex or ride tires on a fluid track...on all other brands i tested this is not feeling really good for 5minutes... so i make front and rear the same.
have fun with testing and tell me your result.
kind regards Tom
#1225
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Morning Ed,
I have to say that the time where i raced the tamiya cars..I was a realy fan of your forum ...now with the A700 I have to put it again into my favorites...
I looked your setup and you said the car is midcorner to direct and hard to drive...
for me this is because of the reactive caster ..2mm is a lot in difference, try just 1mm or 0,5mm.
and then switch the rollcenter in front and rear
front 0mm/0,5mm
rear 0,5mm/0,5mm
when you run the rollcenter to low at the rear you become no temperatur into the tires and the car will be more and more nervous at the back the longer the run takes.
when you have your Tamiya at the track please make a test..
run your tamiya and after the run please messure the temperatur of the tires directly and then do the same with the A700. When the temperatur on the tamiya is higher you need more roll into the A700.
- less downstops
- higher rollcenter
on your dampers you run softer in front then in the back... this normaly I only can run with sorex or ride tires on a fluid track...on all other brands i tested this is not feeling really good for 5minutes... so i make front and rear the same.
have fun with testing and tell me your result.
kind regards Tom
I have to say that the time where i raced the tamiya cars..I was a realy fan of your forum ...now with the A700 I have to put it again into my favorites...
I looked your setup and you said the car is midcorner to direct and hard to drive...
for me this is because of the reactive caster ..2mm is a lot in difference, try just 1mm or 0,5mm.
and then switch the rollcenter in front and rear
front 0mm/0,5mm
rear 0,5mm/0,5mm
when you run the rollcenter to low at the rear you become no temperatur into the tires and the car will be more and more nervous at the back the longer the run takes.
when you have your Tamiya at the track please make a test..
run your tamiya and after the run please messure the temperatur of the tires directly and then do the same with the A700. When the temperatur on the tamiya is higher you need more roll into the A700.
- less downstops
- higher rollcenter
on your dampers you run softer in front then in the back... this normaly I only can run with sorex or ride tires on a fluid track...on all other brands i tested this is not feeling really good for 5minutes... so i make front and rear the same.
have fun with testing and tell me your result.
kind regards Tom
Thanks for the input, and the kind words over the site It's my intention to try and bring all the good info in this thread into a bit more of a user friendly format over the next few weeks, making it easier to get to the info as needed (rather than hunting through pages and pages!).
Also I kept referring back to your two setups (including the GP3F one) during the day, trying to get a clearer picture on what to do.
The reactive castor I only put on for the last run at the end of the day, for the rest of it I had been running 2mm under both shims joints (flat). Only reason I used so much was to see what the reaction to the change was, appreciate that generally seem to use less.
Regarding the roll centres, I do think that this might be causing the initial turn-in issue followed by mid corner push, with the front being a little high, and then giving a more initially reactive front. Definitely on my list is to try raising rear + lower the front a little as you suggest.
In terms of damping, don't you mean that the rear is harder damped than the front? Looking back over the manual, a larger A figure increases the damping (and spring) rate. I did try 4mm in both front and rear, but as I increased the rear spring rate, was also trying to match the spring/damping rates F-R.
Harder rear damping helped to get on the power nice and early, but without over rotation. I do expect that I'll need to soften the rear off a bit with the roll centre change though, and thinking about it, usually use the same oil F-R on the tam, even with different springs.
I'll try to get some temps from the Tamiya next time out for comparison, but I do know that the heat into the tyres isn't a massive problem, as the 32's on this track heat up quickly... 36's are a different story!
Anyway, cheers for the thoughts, plenty to try out... quite keen to get back to the track, shame it won't be until sunday
#1226
Tech Fanatic
#1227
Tech Initiate
I thought I would never see this car in person. Last week someone had it at the track. He was messing with the setup, so I didn't see it go fast.
I looks great in real life
I looks great in real life
#1228
Tech Lord
iTrader: (86)
Here's a video of the main (my car is orange/blue/white)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ZeNbNmBgkc
#1229
Tech Champion
iTrader: (31)
I'm so ready...
Good day Oleg. Getting ready to order the kit; just wanting to know if Mark Dawsons' list of spares posted here...http://www.rctech.net/forum/9984890-post1002.html ...are available as well? I haven't looked to verify but the 'First Aid' kit, is that essentially most of the parts from MDawsons' list?
Can't wait
Can't wait
Last edited by JayBee; 01-03-2012 at 10:45 AM.
#1230
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
Good day Oleg. Getting ready to order the kit; just wanting to know if Mark Dawsons' list of spares posted here...http://www.rctech.net/forum/9984890-post1002.html ...are available as well? I haven't looked to verify but the 'First Aid' kit, is that essentially most of the parts from MDawsons' list?
Can't wait
Can't wait