Awesomatix EP Touring Car (A700 Shaft Drive)
#8911
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (28)
can anyone guide me on which holes i should bolt up on the alum chassis brace in my EvoII to get optimum chassis flex without sacrificing overall chassis strength against collisions. i also have those Tamiya hollow bolts, are they helpful? thanks!
also, which promotes traction roll on a grippy track, a flexy or a stiff chassis?
also, which promotes traction roll on a grippy track, a flexy or a stiff chassis?
which brace?
you'll find a stiff chassis best unless there is no grip.... and then, possibly removing the top deck is best.
#8912
yeah grip is hard to find in our local track unless prepped for a race. but i tried removing the top deck and i actually took 1st in a heat over our top drivers, and consistently placed in the top 3 (except for a couple of heats which were my fault). loving this car!
#8914
So, does shorter upper camber/caster links promote traction roll or lessen it?
#8915
Moderator
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Outside doing things in places... Denver, CO
Posts: 4,609
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So I've determined that trying to follow setups on an AX car is rather pointless given that few people have a car that are all the same parts as any of the setups. Seems most cars end up being A700Mutts. (example, I am running an aluminum chassis (1st gen CO1AL) on an A700L, but with some L2/Evo2 bits, and GD1s, in 17.5/13.5).
So... in trying to tune the car around feel/driving style, what are people using for general setup guidance? The old Xray tuning guide that breaks down each geometry adjustment? Or is there anything more current/applicable to the A700 out there? Trying to narrow down high impact adjustments around roll center and such in relation to "free up/stick the rear off power", "more mid corner steering or on power steering", etc...
And with the A700 there are SO many options to tweak change, its a bit daunting at times. Being that I've been out of the loop the last 7 months, looking at the A700 again to make changes leaves lots of "why the hell is that setup the way it is right now?" questions
So... in trying to tune the car around feel/driving style, what are people using for general setup guidance? The old Xray tuning guide that breaks down each geometry adjustment? Or is there anything more current/applicable to the A700 out there? Trying to narrow down high impact adjustments around roll center and such in relation to "free up/stick the rear off power", "more mid corner steering or on power steering", etc...
And with the A700 there are SO many options to tweak change, its a bit daunting at times. Being that I've been out of the loop the last 7 months, looking at the A700 again to make changes leaves lots of "why the hell is that setup the way it is right now?" questions
#8916
So I've determined that trying to follow setups on an AX car is rather pointless given that few people have a car that are all the same parts as any of the setups.... ...Being that I've been out of the loop the last 7 months, looking at the A700 again to make changes leaves lots of "why the hell is that setup the way it is right now?" questions
Anyway, all of that being said, here is the only general setup starting point I've found that works for me on medium-high grip asphalt: Standard springs with the dampening and spring rate set to a 3.0 mm gap front and back. 1.2 mm sway bar up front, 1.0 in the back. If I want more steering and not having any rear traction issues, I will go with a 3.6-4.0 mm gap on the spring rate up front to soften it (but leave the dampening at 3.0).
I've played with many combinations of parts, tires, dampers, chassis (alloy and carbon), upper decks (with and without), flex, bodies, and modifications between my Evo 1 and 2... This is the general starting point I use for all of them and I find it works pretty well to get me in the ball park. It also gives me a baseline so I can tell what other changes are really doing.
Curious what other's use as their go-to "I have no idea what to expect" initial setups.
#8917
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
Wes, I noticed in the a800 thread that you said you prefer the carbon chassis, do you use the chassis brace (am33-5 or other) with the carbon chassis?
I know with the alloy chassis, if you don't use the brace, you must use the top deck, is it the same with the carbon chassis?
#8918
Regarding the top deck; I tend to run without it because while I do gain mid-corner steering, I find I give up too much rear-end traction. I personally haven't found a problem gaining mid-corner steering without having to run the top-deck, and feel they lock up the rear flex points too much for my taste.
Edit:
I've actually run a carbon Raceberry chassis on my Evo 1 without a chassis brace or top deck, but still had the full AT32 rod to keep the chassis from bowing. It is the easiest car to drive I've ever wheeled, but it can't be pushed as hard as other setups. I actually keep this extra car around for the days that I can't dial my main car for the life of me. I even switched to it in the middle of the recent Nats because I dialed my Evo 2 out to oblivion on the Tamiya track. Sometimes consistency can beat a car that is theoretically faster. My Evo 2 (running the alloy chassis at the time) was capable of putting down faster lap times, but my overall times were better with the Evo 1. Me being crazy nervous at my first Nats event didn't help either
Last edited by WesRaven; 10-15-2015 at 03:18 PM.
#8919
#8920
Tech Fanatic
https://www.facebook.com/awesomatixRC
#8921
Tech Initiate
Could someone please explain the effects of using am26. Also I've notice that am06s is now standard on the evo 2, what effect does this have on handling?
Thanks
Thanks
#8922
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (28)
fyi - am26 haven't proven to be extremely popular.
#8924
That happend to me once, it was the spur gear.
#8925
Tech Apprentice
ooo. That looks hawt.