Cp Grafix

Well I can follow u, its annoying havning parts like that coming loose.

The only problem I have is that u have to turn the screw from the buttom.

Oleg Babich

Modification of P06 is planned.

Now I recommend to apply the layers of CA on the inner surface of the hole for some decreasing of the inner size of the hole.
After hardening of this preliminary layer of CA please insert P06 and glue it as usual with very thin CA.

r king

I found that if you use very thin ca glue that is new you don't have a problem with them coming lose .the second chassis that I done I use the same glue as the first ,but it had been sitting in my garage for a while and didn't run as well.

Korgae

iTrader: (15)

I put the PO6 on my Hudy 1.5mm driver... place CA ( thin and fresh) on the PO6 all around it, and then press the PO6 into the chassis... I find using the 1.5 driver lets you press it into the chassis square allowing the CA to set all around the PO6.. I find it easier then putting CA directly onto the chassis then inserting the PO6.

I have also drilled and tapped my arms in the past and had a conventional droop screw orientation..adjustable from the top of the car.. if you measure correctly for the hole(s) adjustment from the top of the car is very easy using droop blocks and a gauge.. and no, I have never broken a arm.

MDawson

iTrader: (27)

Hi Korgae -

Can you post a picture of that modification?

malkiy

iTrader: (10)

I saw Frank Bortollzo's car, friend of Korgea's, he had the same droop screw modifications. Looked like a very good idea. If this isn't the preferred method why not get rid of the plastic barrel and just thread a set screw into the chassis. Maybe get a set screw made with deeper threads?

MDawson

iTrader: (27)

i have a chassis that doesn't use the P06 part. Instead, I lined the chassis droop hole with CA to add more material and threaded in a 4x4 or 4x3 mm set screw.

Korgae

iTrader: (15)

I will try to get you some pics, Oleg wants me to post another mod I came up with as well.. so I will try to do both in the next bit here..

Like Malky said, he saw it on Franks car last weekend, it works really good, newer drivers should prob stay with the PO6 for the time being.. as the hole is centered in the arm and if you hit super hard, it could snap a arm, maybe?... I have been using a 3mm long set screw, but V2 will use a smaller 2mm screw.

I have suggested an idea to Oleg about arm design around this as well.

AARON YOUNG

iTrader: (15)

I did the same as korgae but used a little bigger driver that stretched the po6 a little and haven't had a problem . I like adjusting from the bottom because I don't use blocks and can hold the droop gauge and adjust at the same time.

Korgae

iTrader: (15)

Pics of droop screws

Korgae

iTrader: (15)

You can also see the other mod I do to the AT21's I sand the top of them flat, to expose the setscrew head. I then take a reamer and put a hole in the Kyosho HD ball cups, I get tired of popping off the ball cups all the time, this way you just unscew the assembly without popping the ball cups off. Works good.

hana166

iTrader: (2)

My favourite set up is new car, original bulkheads. Not exactly cost effective but I happened to have a set. Easy wrenching

AwesomatixUSA

just an fyi - EX, EXL, and L kits are now in stock again at shop.awesomatixusa.com

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

looking forward to running again this weekend on asphalt. i'll be at Middle River Hobbies running on their parking lot track Saturday, and then be at Jackson RC on Sunday. i'm finally strapping in some serious horsepower into my EXL. sound be a fun time.

hana166

iTrader: (2)

Seen some of this before..

2pc wishbones and steering arms without proper locators are asking for tweak problems.

But I would like very much a central motor option for A700. Steering rack joined to servo would be good if it hadn't already been designed by Oleg