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Old 01-21-2013, 12:28 PM
  #2926  
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the only things that make 'stock' cars good (assuming the car handles excellent -- because that is always step #0 -- and can make up for both #1 and #2) are-

#1 efficient motors
#2 amazing batteries
#3 perfect lines
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Old 01-21-2013, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Oleg Babich
The question for 13.5T blinky mode drivers:

What throttle settings in transmitter are you using to be faster?

1. Exponentials
2. ARC - Adjustable Rate Control
3. Sub-trim
4. Anything else?
( edit : looks like Manu already said this... but I'll second the point ! )

Tricking the esc to maintain 100% full throttle is always important in "blinky" classes. So calibrating the transmitter to the esc at 100% but after calibration setting the end point to 110 % is important. You lose a bit of "feel" but getting to 100% reliably is more important.

Jake D.
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Old 01-21-2013, 08:23 PM
  #2928  
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I do the same as magnet top, but I go from 100% to 120%....
With a good setup in 13.5t shaft cars, I overgear a bit 0.4fdr under what the belt cars' fdr, but make up for infield punch with 50+% positive expo and 80+% throttle acceleration with a slight forward trim(+20%) that keeps my Car going when I'm Off throttle...
As fas the Esc, I run the highest drive frequency, the highest minimum throttle and no drag brakes at all....
It made my Novak system pull a few d3.5's down the straight....
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:27 PM
  #2929  
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You can find the latest Viljami Kutvonen ETS MOD setup here:
http://awesomatix.com/download/

Please see the picture of roll centers/camber gain also.

Please note that ETS tires (Ride 32) have bigger diameter ( ~64mm).
Attached Thumbnails Awesomatix EP Touring Car (A700 Shaft Drive)-viljami-mod-ets-rd2.jpg  
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:33 PM
  #2930  
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Oleg I agree with jake radio's settings for 13.5 blinky. The most important is that you get the gearing just right as all motors are different. In my case I run a higher gearing than everybody else in stock and my motor run excellent in that gearing.
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Old 01-22-2013, 09:33 PM
  #2931  
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Originally Posted by MDawson
....
What are you solving for?
The ETS Pro-Stock 13.5T rules limit the gearing to FDR 4.5 for indoor and 4.0 for outdoor.
I think we can find up to 0.2sec per lap with good non-linear throttle transmitter settings at these conditions, especially if the driver is very good mod. driver usually trained of course for very smooth throttle's finger operation.

For example Viljami Kutvonen tried in third A-main of ETS Rd2 Pro-Stock +40%exp in throttle and it was like a different motor for him.
The 5min result and the best laps were improved.
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Old 01-22-2013, 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Oleg Babich
The ETS Pro-Stock 13.5T rules limit the gearing to FDR 4.5 for indoor and 4.0 for outdoor.
I think we can find up to 0.2sec per lap with good non-linear throttle transmitter settings at these conditions, especially if the driver is very good mod. driver usually trained of course for very smooth throttle operation.

For example Viljami Kutvonen tried in last final of ETS Rd2 Pro-Stock +40%exp in throttle and it was like a different motor for him.
The 5min result and the best laps were improved.
I had this discussion with Reto some years back - he equated the increase expo as effectively moving throttle curve relative to the trigger position. In other words less input of the trigger resulted in reaching the throttle endpoint sooner. Makes the car feel like it has more rip independent of changing other ESC based settings. There is some point however where the acceleration 'feel' will go quickly from crisp snap to softer spool up. Think of it as Expo advance fade. Track conditions however can quickly make this feel unsettling. The value of +40 is a unique feel. Too much of a light switch and difficult to modulate.

This does change the drivability of 13.5 motor. When all things are equal and spec, ESC & Motor, this can be a good advantage.

I have some other thoughts that I will email later.

Last edited by MDawson; 01-22-2013 at 10:07 PM.
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Old 01-22-2013, 10:31 PM
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Dawson, I agree it's a light switch, but if you also have your throttle forward trim up 20% it won't be so difficult to modulate... I find the 40% expo too soft, and I have to add 80% throttle acceleration to it to get the 10.5t feeling, but that's just me trying to match the punch of d3.5's with my Novak...lol....
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Old 01-23-2013, 01:17 AM
  #2934  
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Concerning Viljami's setup:

To accomodate Viljami's setup for normal 63mm tires
you should remove 0.5mm shims from all inner upper and lower balls and reduce all downstops on 0.5mm also.
Please note that Viljami measures all upper inner AT21 balls from top deck level.
So you should remove 2mm to get the correct shims value in case of using AM18-1 over the top deck.

Last edited by Oleg Babich; 01-23-2013 at 01:32 AM.
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Old 01-23-2013, 03:10 AM
  #2935  
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Originally Posted by Oleg Babich
you should remove 0.5mm shims from all inner upper and lower balls...
one question about shims under lower balls: in the Viljami's setup there is 0.5 mm, but is this the total thickness under AT21 or I have to add 0.5 mm because of the milled areas? (so 1.0 mm total under balls)

thanks
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Old 01-23-2013, 04:04 AM
  #2936  
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I wonder about this also but I notice in the 'comments/impressions' section it says 'Shims under suspension arms measured from milled level'
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Old 01-23-2013, 04:18 AM
  #2937  
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Originally Posted by hana166
I wonder about this also but I notice in the 'comments/impressions' section it says 'Shims under suspension arms measured from milled level'
it was also written.....

perfect, it's all clear now
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Old 01-23-2013, 08:38 AM
  #2938  
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Originally Posted by Oleg Babich
You can find the latest Viljami Kutvonen ETS MOD setup here:
http://awesomatix.com/download/

Please see the picture of roll centers/camber gain also.

Please note that ETS tires (Ride 32) have bigger diameter ( ~64mm).
So Sorex are 6.75mm, Rides 64mm, CPX 5.25mm, am I right?
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Old 01-23-2013, 10:44 AM
  #2939  
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Originally Posted by Magnet Top
( edit : looks like Manu already said this... but I'll second the point ! )

Tricking the esc to maintain 100% full throttle is always important in "blinky" classes. So calibrating the transmitter to the esc at 100% but after calibration setting the end point to 110 % is important. You lose a bit of "feel" but getting to 100% reliably is more important.

Jake D.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UeOXsA8sp_E

On a serious note, I never tried this 110% or 120 or 140% trick. I could understand a few more clicks " just to be sure ", but more sounds like losing too much trigger travel across the power band. Anyway I'll try when I get the chance. That and the + expo thing.
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Old 01-23-2013, 11:55 AM
  #2940  
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Originally Posted by markova
So Sorex are 6.75mm, Rides 64mm, CPX 5.25mm, am I right?
Sorex and LRP CPX have ~ 63mm diameter for calculation of roll centers.
So remove 0.5mm shims from under all inner AT21.
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