MDawson

iTrader: (27)

Nice to know as I have 2.8 of them

theatriks

iTrader: (8)

Did not know that lol ....I better double the price I'm asking for it lol .....too bad I can't see into the future ...I heard an original tamiya bruiser in the box is worth 5 grand idk how much truth there is too that but interesting...

fastvee

Edit. Im too tired never mind. forgot these are not normal shocks... alls well-

I´ll leave my orig. post below to laugh at..




Heyyy... I just received my 700L kit and I´m at the shock build stage.

On the leaf spring side on the dampers where the grub screw goes I would like to know what does that 1.5mm head screw do deep in there? ( the one inside the shock that is in there from the factory) -not the symmetric/assymmetric screw that is on another side of the shock.

The reason I ask is I accidentaly turned it a bit (toughted that I had screwed wrong grub screw in there and tried to get it out but then I found that thing on my table ... (I never should build stuff when I´m this tired...)

So I need to know should it be tight or loose, just thinking I messed something up here.


And should that set screw be deep or just at the outer tip of that "shock shaft" ? -does it just keep the spring from falling?

Oleg Babich

You should tighten this set screw full way in to damper's axis as tight as possible.
This screw seals inner channels of damper to prevent the leakage of damping fluid.
There is the another set screw ( SS3X3) that keeps SPR02 Shock Rod Guide.

JJ57

Dear Oleg,

Please post "How to build A700" at this topic to
avoid unnecessary questions about the car, what I mean is go to details of build as asked by "FASTVEE" would be unnecessary.

PS. As the placement of shocks.

Yours truly,

Jari Virtanen
a proud owner of one of the first 222.

fastvee

Thanks, i have allready build the car,do I need to check these screws or is it ok? - when I turned that screw the whole axle of the shock turned also so that screw was not loosened.

(so if I understood this right I dont need todisassemble the car to check the shocks since the whole axle turned with the shaft)

let me know,

Pate

Oleg Babich

Several fast (abrupt) clockwise turns of 1.5mm hex screwdriver at the final stage of screwing is enough. Electric screwdriver is good for this also.
This is enough to never check this screw afterwards.

fastvee

So that is the way they are build at the factory?



What I tried to say earlier was the screw was not turning like it is loosening, the shock shaft turned the same amount as that screw.

So should it be tightened -even if it was not loosened.(should all new shocks be tightened) -and am I correct thinking that the shaft should not be held with pliers while tightening that screw but spin freely?


And "Several fast (abrupt) clockwise turns of 1.5mm hex screwdriver at the final stage of screwing" -so do I understand this correctly by saying that:

the screw tightens and when it is at the tightest and the shaft starts to turn also then few fast turns and its done.

edit. ok I just did that... hope I understood you correctly.

-Pate

Oleg Babich

Electric screwdriver is using at the factory for this.
The resistance of damper during rotation of its axis generates the torque enough for good tightening of this set screw.
You understand all correctly.

Navi

Hi all,

I just purchased this car (A700L) and finished the assembly. It is more expensive than those EP touring in the market but it worth for the extra for its quality and innovative design. I love it very much. But since it is quite different from those conventional belt drive cars, I have doubts on some areas and needing some helps.

1) The manual default setup is for carpet. Is there a default setup for asphalt ?

2) The rear damper is suggested to be harder than front. Is it ok to set up in that way ? Most touring cars have front damper harder instead.

3) In my local track I used to use HPI silver springs with AE 40 cst. oil. How can it be converted to the damper set up (distance A and B as described in the manual).

Thanks for the help !

Oleg Babich

1. Please try this setup on your track first.
2. Almost all touring cars have front suspension actually softer than rear.
Harder springs and oil are compensated by the shorter operating
leverage force application for the shocks on the front suspension of all others touring
cars.
3. Please use our standard setup as initial.

Navi

Thanks Oleg for your quick response.

So I would follow the manual suggested set up and try it first.

Just notice that the default setup shows "0" as the front and rear stabilizer, does it mean that they are not suggested to install on the car?

Thanks again.

Oleg Babich

Yes, try it without stabilizer first.

fastvee

Hey guys, I´m using sweep 28 wheels and trying to figure out some setups...

-main problem is that all the setups I found use 3 or 2.75mm under the P01/P02 .

But anything over 2.5mm and theP02 rub on the wheels.


Older cars Ive seen have lower P02 so maybe that has changed? -or they have been dremeled?



Any advice how to modify some setup that has 3mm and if I use 2.5mm what do I need to change also to make it work?

-or is it ok to cut some plastic off that P02?






High grip carpet, same track that is on this "easy to drive setup" from Viljami(he uses the A700 car so maybe the P01 is lower on his car then on A700L ? ) :



(the shock gf/mm is not correct on that sheet btw)


any help is appreciated since I´m new to all this setup stuff.

Also, do you lube the metar gears? -with what, graphite grease?

-Pate

erchn

iTrader: (7)

If it were me, I would go with .5 on the inner ball studs and stay at 2.5 on outer, that'll give you essentially the same camber gain.