Davin

iTrader: (43)

Oh and BTW Trerc. I did end up with that T3 2011 if you think you love your 009 wait till you get your hands on one of those

YR4Dude

iTrader: (44)

I got my 009 last year lightly used off the FS forum. It had the XRay lipo battery weight mod and a graphite battery strap for $225 shipped. Really unless there are a lot of extra parts to go with it, the price should be lower now that we're in 2011.

Parts aside, the XRay is quite durable and unless you hit hard on the boards or concrete, you won't be breaking much. The most damage I had was a front hub carrier and a front knuckle.

XRay wants a lot of money for simple parts which I don't know why. The price for the hub bushing for the king pins is ridiculous so I use HPI hub bushings. The price for the thrust bearings in the diffs is also ridiculous but I found them from Avid RC for $3/ea.

As for replacement parts all parts on the T3 other than chassis and bulkheads fit the 009. Someone may correct me on this but that is what I found from cross checking the parts list.

vr6cj

iTrader: (124)

Xray has a reference table up that cross refenece all the models on what can be used with what.

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/sho...p?file_id=7157

1101

High there. I just raced with my new exotek chassis.
The rear grip is now alot less than before, pretty much standard setup.

Any hints or ideas on how to get ther rear grip back would be appreciated.
low grip ashfelt, rubber tyres.
It was a bit loose in the rear previously, but its now alot worse. Tried more camber but that didnt help.
Cheers

Nilks

That's strange. The exotek is thinner (only 2mm instead of 2.5mm), so I has more flex, which should give more traction (it did for me). I don't have the "standard setup", so can you post a setup sheet? I haven't run on asphalt yet, but I (or someone else) can take a look at your setup, if you post it.

1101

re ,my rear grip issues with exotek
By standard setup, I used the standard 2008 EU/Ashfelt setup

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/sho...p?file_id=4192
Except...
no roll bars (perhaps I should try fr roll bar)
+ 301185 T2 008 Asphalt-Spec Upper Deck
+ added approx 80 grams weight to bring up to min Race weight (1425g: local rule) most of this weight was placed at the rear, in the area just forward of the rear suspension

It was my first run with the Exotek, & had no time to try out any changes.
The front grip was great, rear was really loose on tight or hairpin turns
Cheers

Nilks

I had a brief look at your setup, and I couldn't really spot anything totally off. I would probably try a longer camber-link in the rear, by moving out the camber-link on the hub. Perhaps try to make your rear-end wider with spacers (remember to re-adjust your camber!).

Other than that I would probably move some weight to the front of the car. That will calm it down.

cyclone x

iTrader: (3)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...STRK:MESELX:IT

Capt'N_Slow

iTrader: (10)

here is what i would try for low to med bite.

2.6 Rear and 2.8 Front spring
full short front wheelbase
full long rear wheelbase
1.3ft sway bar, 1.2 rear sway bar or none.
3hole pistons with 600cst FT and 400cst Rear
3.5deg rear toe.
make sure that your ackermann post is full short.

2mm shim outside hub front
1mm or 0mm shim outside hub rear.

Hope you have a good run.

orci77

I just join in. I have also some problems with loose rear on medium grip tight carpet tracks with rubber tires.
I run the T2'009 EU basic carpet rubber setup.
I just raised the outer rear hub by 0.5mm and put the 1.2 anti-roll-bar in the rear. But it doesnt help really much.

Interesting point for me: Everybody told me that increasing the shim on the outside hub rear would calm down the rear. But here you recommend to decrease or remove the shim completely!?

maxg123456

Hi my friend. I have to join in with this conversation, as I also own a T3 2011 car and its very stuck at the rear on turn in. (mirror opposite to my 008 and 009 lol). The point about the rear hub carrying another shim is absolutely correct. The car is a lot more planted on turn in. Forget roll centres, as per the setup book. The camber change is more important than anything else in my opinion. An angled link at the rear is a great change. Also, try the asphalt top decks. The car has a bit more flex overall, but the car still has nowhere near the flex of the T3 11', so because of this the tires wont overheat and the laptimes are uneffected, yet you get a car thats easier to drive and can take on anything out there! (;-)

Getting back to the 008-009. I have to say, with the setup tuned to my driving style, I haven't got my newer T3 11' to go any faster around my medium grip indoor club circuit. The 009 is such a great car because it will always have mega sharp steering for indoors, therefore the laptimes are very good still. I've seen the top drivers where I race, go as fast as any other car with the 009. Try the front downstop at 6.5 as well. I find this makes a massive difference.

My setup is here, down the list under maxg123456 - http://forum.teamxray.com/xsheets.ph...1d1cb9d3bcdc73

RC4ODC

iTrader: (21)

Front roll bar should make a big difference

orci77

I had a look at "Club Meeting T2´008/T2´009 Maritime Raceway UK London 03. September 2010".
If I compare your setup with the basic one, I see the following differences:
- Your wheel base is different (How do I read the setup sheet here??)
- Your downstop is a little bit less
- Your front toe is less while your rear toe is more
- Front width is a little bit more
- Servo saver is different in position and ackermann
- No central alu stand

I will try the less downstop and 0° front toe.
Can you explain why you made the front wider and with different servo saver settings?

As top deck I have the Lipo conversion kit => so kind of double top deck do get my lipo under. Should I better use the kit that moves the lipo to the outside?

I am wondering a little bit because you run Sorex 32. We use 28 indoor.

Would you propose to stay at T2'009 instead of switching to T3'011?

Capt'N_Slow

iTrader: (10)

With the 009 on carpet you have way to much front steering and grip. To remove grip from front I use the 2mm shim to reduce roll while I take the shim out on the rear to increase the roll of the rear increasing grip.

Start with Paul LeMieux 2009 Vegas IIC setup for carpet.

http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...3&setup=t2_008

Changes I made for my track.

-1.5deg front camber
-full short on the ackermann adjuster. (easier to drive).
-0.00 roll center front and rear.
-standard 4deg caster blocks.
-3 hole 550 front and 3 hole 350 rear. (bumpy track condition - increase if smooth track)
-1.4 anti-roll front. (takes away steering).
-#4 hole shock position front, #2 hole shock position rear.

maxg123456

Hi,

My setup has been altered a bit more since then. I run 6.5 front downstop. The reason for the wider front end is that it makes the car feel a lot more calmer on corner entry and behaves like the car has slower steering speed. It settles the car better. I even run the rear narrower now, with 1 deg rear toe in hubs.

The reason for the wheelbase is to have a lot more static weight further forward when you move front and rear arms further back. What I find this does, is transfer less weight forward off throttle, amking the car easier to drive. I have amended this back to stock at the moment. I run the steering links dead straight all the time, as this settles the car also.

I run 28Rs as well. I tried 32s with warmers as an experiment that worked well. I love the 008-009 with a setup for my driving style. I tend to drive agressively with a lot of steering input. I'm usually in the As at most places I run, so i've got the setup thing down for my driving style on the 008-009.

I think the T3 11 is a better car overall, because the stock setup is way easier to drive with and it has greater potential. I haven't had it for long, but its no faster than my 009 yet. Then again I have had the 009 for 2 years lol.