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Old 10-20-2010, 07:31 AM   #2491
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Originally Posted by Corally_27 View Post
down stop f6 r5
ride hight f5.5 r6
.5 deg toe out front
2.5 deg toe in rear
1.5 camber all wheels
2.2 xray springs front and rear
shocks 2 holes front 4 holes rear 30wt oil all wheels

if you need some thing more just ask
Try going to a stiffer spring and go to 3 hole pistons like others were saying and go from there.
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Old 10-20-2010, 08:10 AM   #2492
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Try going to a stiffer spring and go to 3 hole pistons like others were saying and go from there.
i try what you are suggesting thanks for the input much appreciated
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Old 10-20-2010, 08:21 AM   #2493
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I'm getting into VTA and was originally going to pick up a $100 OFNA TC but instead looked for deals on a used Xray. So for a little more than a new OFNA JL10 I ended up with Rodney Barretts T2R that has been "almost" converted to a 009.

From these pics can you tell me what is left to make it a 009?
Also, since its used, what are the wear parts I should have on hand?

Xray T2R pro turned into almost T2 009.
The following are all additions:
Graphite Chassis and Top Deck (includes lipo pads)
Lunsford Turnbuckles
Aluminum Hexes for the wheels
Sway Bar front and rear (not pictured but will be included)
Rear Aluminum diff
Aluminum Lipo battery holder
90% of the car has stainless steel screws
Hard front bumper

Thanks!
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Old 10-20-2010, 10:38 AM   #2494
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From these pics can you tell me what is left to make it a 009?
Also, since its used, what are the wear parts I should have on hand?
If it runs good why should by some "transfer-parts"?
We have very few parts that break. Maybe put the usual parts in stock: C-Hub, Steering block, rear hub and front+rear arms.
Besides big spare part stocks get wasted money if not used and you sell the car later on.
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Old 10-20-2010, 10:39 AM   #2495
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Originally Posted by orci77 View Post
If it runs good why should by some "transfer-parts"?
We have very few parts that break. Maybe put the usual parts in stock: C-Hub, Steering block, rear hub and front+rear arms.
Besides big spare part stocks get wasted money if not used and you sell the car later on.
Just learning about the cars. Thanks for the info.
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Old 10-20-2010, 10:39 AM   #2496
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dbl post.
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Old 10-20-2010, 10:41 AM   #2497
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Originally Posted by Corally_27 View Post
down stop f6 r5 Add more droop set rear down stop at 4 or 3
ride hight f5.5 r6
.5 deg toe out front
2.5 deg toe in rear You may need to take out some toe once your rear end starts gripping more.
1.5 camber all wheels Add camber to the rear set it to 2 or 2.5
2.2 xray springs front and rear Need harder springs on the front
shocks 2 holes front 4 holes rear 30wt oil all wheels


if you need some thing more just ask
Also, what are you tires and sways?

I want to point out that the main problem with your set-up is your front springs and your rear droop (downstop). What happens is because you have such soft springs on the front, as you slow to make the turn, the front end dives down. The resulting weight transfer to the front lifts your rear end off the ground. Because you don't have enough rear droop, the rear tires loose contact with the surface and hence looses traction. Adding more droop (lower downstop number) will help keep your tires in contact with the track surface. Adding a stiffer front spring will also prevent from having too much weight transfer to the front as you slow to make turns.

Hope that helps.
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Old 10-20-2010, 11:21 AM   #2498
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Originally Posted by YR4Dude View Post
Also, what are you tires and sways?

I want to point out that the main problem with your set-up is your front springs and your rear droop (downstop). What happens is because you have such soft springs on the front, as you slow to make the turn, the front end dives down. The resulting weight transfer to the front lifts your rear end off the ground. Because you don't have enough rear droop, the rear tires loose contact with the surface and hence looses traction. Adding more droop (lower downstop number) will help keep your tires in contact with the track surface. Adding a stiffer front spring will also prevent from having too much weight transfer to the front as you slow to make turns.

Hope that helps.
tiers lrp 27 or 30 x

no sways used at least nobody use them here
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Old 10-20-2010, 11:43 AM   #2499
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Originally Posted by Corally_27 View Post
tiers lrp 27 or 30 x

no sways used at least nobody use them here
You may want to consider sways. It helps in reducing the weight transfer from left to right and vice versa in hard corners. That way you distribute more traction to the inside tires.
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Old 10-21-2010, 01:49 AM   #2500
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Also, since its used, what are the wear parts I should have on hand?
Xrays are really tough, you wont break much. Ive yet to use hardly any of my spare parts. Good to have some spares, just in case.(My Tamiya is another story, really brittle in comparison)
Get some of the drive shaft cap things, they wear out. sorry dont have the part no. Keep an eye on them for wear.
Also the plastic shock ends that attach to the suspension , they break when someone rear ends you.
Spare belts & pulleys, in case you get a stone in there.
Spare Xray spurs & Pinions.
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Old 11-04-2010, 12:50 AM   #2501
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I am running VTA with a 25.5 and looking for a tips on the spur I should run and still have access to the motor screw. Target final ratio is in the range of 3.5 - 3.8 with a transmission ratio of 1.7.

Xray offers a 92, that would leave me running a pinion between 45 and 41. I am not sure it will fit/reach.

Xray also offers a 96 that would leave me running pinions between 43 and 47. Not sure if a 47 will fit?

RW offers any possible size all the way down to whatever, but even with the holes I don't think I will be able to get the motor screws in.
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Old 11-04-2010, 02:44 AM   #2502
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Originally Posted by rknott View Post
I am running VTA with a 25.5 and looking for a tips on the spur I should run and still have access to the motor screw. Target final ratio is in the range of 3.5 - 3.8 with a transmission ratio of 1.7.

Xray offers a 92, that would leave me running a pinion between 45 and 41. I am not sure it will fit/reach.

Xray also offers a 96 that would leave me running pinions between 43 and 47. Not sure if a 47 will fit?

RW offers any possible size all the way down to whatever, but even with the holes I don't think I will be able to get the motor screws in.
don't know if this is good advice but what i did to my 009 in order that i could push the motor more backward or closer to the spur is that i sanded off the bottom left of the top deck (meaning i made the edge of the top deck more straight - the bottom left side only).

Just be careful sanding it as you might lose the hole to drive in the screw. I used 3M 1000 grit sand paper and it was done in less than a minute.

did it have any affect on the performance or behaviour of the car? wouldn't really know since i'm just a club racer but it made my life easier
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Old 11-04-2010, 09:46 AM   #2503
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Does anyone know of a good web page that sells xray parts?

I need part: 305005 or 305000, 305001, 305002.

I got a T1.
I got a T1 that I had put together to race, but I was very unhappy with its proformance and went with the newer 009 and T3. I would be willing to sell it for 120.00 bucks or trade for a tekin or other ESC with timing and boost.
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Old 11-15-2010, 06:28 PM   #2504
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Default large pinions.

I figured out how to use large pinions (56t+) on my xray with a 108spur.

Just a couple washers and it requires raising the motor 1/8" but no cutting or adapting needed.
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Old 11-21-2010, 03:14 PM   #2505
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Default What pinion to choose

Hello,
I just purchased a used T2 008 Foam Spec which came with a 104-tooth spur installed. Must be 64-pitch according to the manuals.

I have tons of 48-pitch pinions but no 64-pitch, so what should I buy?

Will be running a 6000kv brushless motor on 2s. Track is indoor, green plastic outdoor carpet, typically very low grip.

Eric
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