XRAY T2’009
10-20-2010, 06:31 AM
#2491
Try going to a stiffer spring and go to 3 hole pistons like others were saying and go from there.
10-20-2010, 07:10 AM
#2492
Tech Apprentice
10-20-2010, 07:21 AM
#2493
I'm getting into VTA and was originally going to pick up a $100 OFNA TC but instead looked for deals on a used Xray. So for a little more than a new OFNA JL10 I ended up with Rodney Barretts T2R that has been "almost" converted to a 009.
From these pics can you tell me what is left to make it a 009?
Also, since its used, what are the wear parts I should have on hand?
Xray T2R pro turned into almost T2 009.
The following are all additions:
Graphite Chassis and Top Deck (includes lipo pads)
Lunsford Turnbuckles
Aluminum Hexes for the wheels
Sway Bar front and rear (not pictured but will be included)
Rear Aluminum diff
Aluminum Lipo battery holder
90% of the car has stainless steel screws
Hard front bumper
Thanks!
From these pics can you tell me what is left to make it a 009?
Also, since its used, what are the wear parts I should have on hand?
Xray T2R pro turned into almost T2 009.
The following are all additions:
Graphite Chassis and Top Deck (includes lipo pads)
Lunsford Turnbuckles
Aluminum Hexes for the wheels
Sway Bar front and rear (not pictured but will be included)
Rear Aluminum diff
Aluminum Lipo battery holder
90% of the car has stainless steel screws
Hard front bumper
Thanks!
10-20-2010, 09:38 AM
#2494
We have very few parts that break. Maybe put the usual parts in stock: C-Hub, Steering block, rear hub and front+rear arms.
Besides big spare part stocks get wasted money if not used and you sell the car later on.
10-20-2010, 09:41 AM
#2497
down stop f6 r5 Add more droop set rear down stop at 4 or 3
ride hight f5.5 r6
.5 deg toe out front
2.5 deg toe in rear You may need to take out some toe once your rear end starts gripping more.
1.5 camber all wheels Add camber to the rear set it to 2 or 2.5
2.2 xray springs front and rear Need harder springs on the front
shocks 2 holes front 4 holes rear 30wt oil all wheels
if you need some thing more just ask
ride hight f5.5 r6
.5 deg toe out front
2.5 deg toe in rear You may need to take out some toe once your rear end starts gripping more.
1.5 camber all wheels Add camber to the rear set it to 2 or 2.5
2.2 xray springs front and rear Need harder springs on the front
shocks 2 holes front 4 holes rear 30wt oil all wheels
if you need some thing more just ask
I want to point out that the main problem with your set-up is your front springs and your rear droop (downstop). What happens is because you have such soft springs on the front, as you slow to make the turn, the front end dives down. The resulting weight transfer to the front lifts your rear end off the ground. Because you don't have enough rear droop, the rear tires loose contact with the surface and hence looses traction. Adding more droop (lower downstop number) will help keep your tires in contact with the track surface. Adding a stiffer front spring will also prevent from having too much weight transfer to the front as you slow to make turns.
Hope that helps.
10-20-2010, 10:21 AM
#2498
Tech Apprentice
Also, what are you tires and sways?
I want to point out that the main problem with your set-up is your front springs and your rear droop (downstop). What happens is because you have such soft springs on the front, as you slow to make the turn, the front end dives down. The resulting weight transfer to the front lifts your rear end off the ground. Because you don't have enough rear droop, the rear tires loose contact with the surface and hence looses traction. Adding more droop (lower downstop number) will help keep your tires in contact with the track surface. Adding a stiffer front spring will also prevent from having too much weight transfer to the front as you slow to make turns.
Hope that helps.
I want to point out that the main problem with your set-up is your front springs and your rear droop (downstop). What happens is because you have such soft springs on the front, as you slow to make the turn, the front end dives down. The resulting weight transfer to the front lifts your rear end off the ground. Because you don't have enough rear droop, the rear tires loose contact with the surface and hence looses traction. Adding more droop (lower downstop number) will help keep your tires in contact with the track surface. Adding a stiffer front spring will also prevent from having too much weight transfer to the front as you slow to make turns.
Hope that helps.
no sways used at least nobody use them here
10-21-2010, 12:49 AM
#2500
Tech Addict
Get some of the drive shaft cap things, they wear out. sorry dont have the part no. Keep an eye on them for wear.
Also the plastic shock ends that attach to the suspension , they break when someone rear ends you.
Spare belts & pulleys, in case you get a stone in there.
Spare Xray spurs & Pinions.
11-03-2010, 11:50 PM
#2501
Tech Adept
iTrader: (6)
I am running VTA with a 25.5 and looking for a tips on the spur I should run and still have access to the motor screw. Target final ratio is in the range of 3.5 - 3.8 with a transmission ratio of 1.7.
Xray offers a 92, that would leave me running a pinion between 45 and 41. I am not sure it will fit/reach.
Xray also offers a 96 that would leave me running pinions between 43 and 47. Not sure if a 47 will fit?
RW offers any possible size all the way down to whatever, but even with the holes I don't think I will be able to get the motor screws in.
Xray offers a 92, that would leave me running a pinion between 45 and 41. I am not sure it will fit/reach.
Xray also offers a 96 that would leave me running pinions between 43 and 47. Not sure if a 47 will fit?
RW offers any possible size all the way down to whatever, but even with the holes I don't think I will be able to get the motor screws in.
11-04-2010, 01:44 AM
#2502
I am running VTA with a 25.5 and looking for a tips on the spur I should run and still have access to the motor screw. Target final ratio is in the range of 3.5 - 3.8 with a transmission ratio of 1.7.
Xray offers a 92, that would leave me running a pinion between 45 and 41. I am not sure it will fit/reach.
Xray also offers a 96 that would leave me running pinions between 43 and 47. Not sure if a 47 will fit?
RW offers any possible size all the way down to whatever, but even with the holes I don't think I will be able to get the motor screws in.
Xray offers a 92, that would leave me running a pinion between 45 and 41. I am not sure it will fit/reach.
Xray also offers a 96 that would leave me running pinions between 43 and 47. Not sure if a 47 will fit?
RW offers any possible size all the way down to whatever, but even with the holes I don't think I will be able to get the motor screws in.
Just be careful sanding it as you might lose the hole to drive in the screw. I used 3M 1000 grit sand paper and it was done in less than a minute.
did it have any affect on the performance or behaviour of the car? wouldn't really know since i'm just a club racer but it made my life easier
11-04-2010, 08:46 AM
#2503
I got a T1 that I had put together to race, but I was very unhappy with its proformance and went with the newer 009 and T3. I would be willing to sell it for 120.00 bucks or trade for a tekin or other ESC with timing and boost.
11-21-2010, 02:14 PM
#2505
Tech Rookie
What pinion to choose
Hello,
I just purchased a used T2 008 Foam Spec which came with a 104-tooth spur installed. Must be 64-pitch according to the manuals.
I have tons of 48-pitch pinions but no 64-pitch, so what should I buy?
Will be running a 6000kv brushless motor on 2s. Track is indoor, green plastic outdoor carpet, typically very low grip.
Eric
I just purchased a used T2 008 Foam Spec which came with a 104-tooth spur installed. Must be 64-pitch according to the manuals.
I have tons of 48-pitch pinions but no 64-pitch, so what should I buy?
Will be running a 6000kv brushless motor on 2s. Track is indoor, green plastic outdoor carpet, typically very low grip.
Eric