The Captain

iTrader: (6)

This is what I will be working on this weekend. I have been driving hard into the corners and braking right before the turn, pulsing the brakes to keep from spinning out. This weekend I will not use any brakes and let off the throttle early, and roll through the turns. I'll see which one nets ME better lap times.

edhchoe

iTrader: (41)

For me 20% drag brake worked better than 0%. Maybe because the front end needed more grip via weight transfer forward.

Regarding driving f1 like a touring car. That's exactly how I feel when I drive the fgx. It feels like a touring car.... Almost.

F1Junky

Thank you guys for all ur help. Hopefully I can figure this out and let you guys know how it turns out.

scr8pn4205

Thanks for the help guys. Another question is on a tamiya body doing it "scale" look, whats the best way to attach the pieces. They say double sided tape and screws but wondering if zap pt-22 or shoe goo would be better.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

Double sided tape or servo tape is all I ever use. On the F60 I just did, I didn't put on the mirrors or barge boards as it is a racing body.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

I brake, but only in straight lines from high speed, then roll the corner using a little throttle, then accelerate in a straight line as much as possible. Sometimes a quick blip of the throttle mid corner will snap the rear around. I run 20% drag brake on my Justocks. It's just enough to slow the motor under control without breaking the rear loose if I have to coast.

BP SHADOW

iTrader: (24)

100% shoe goo, the screws look awful

nrtv20

iTrader: (9)

Shoe goo should be more then strong enough to hold the body parts together. I've glued up at least 3 bodies without anything coming off on them.

IndyHobbies.com

He started racing with an Associated RC10T4 stadium truck. That was the hot class at our local off road track at the time. In the last few years, we have mostly run on carpet. VTA, USGT, etc. Our track only allows Tamiya parts including tires and wheels. Silver can or 21.5 brushless.

IndyHobbies.com

Unfortunately Brian, he's got a school thing on Friday night. So, he's not going to be there.

But, you will have my sorry a-- there with my Wolf WR1.

IndyHobbies.com

That was going to be one of my questions on this new Ferrari F60 body. My son would like to use the more scale pieces, which requires cutting out the main body and shoo gooing in the replacements. No problem doing that, I just wondered if, for the racing body use, doing the built up sides was not a good idea.

We have all the parts cut out, so its no problem to go either way right now. Does mess up being able to paint graphics on the sides very well. If we use the pieced up method, then the graphics will have to be decals. (We are doing our own "scale" look scheme, but not the standard red one.)

BP SHADOW

iTrader: (24)

For those of you who might now know, we carry 3Racing as well as Exotek and have a very good stock of parts including all of the new Exotek parts. You can see our selection of parts here
http://f1paintlab.mybigcommerce.com/fgx-hop-up-parts/
I am in the middle of building up a car that I think will turn heads, just need a couple of small parts and it will be done.
Also we are the importer for the Pardus spec tires. I have the sets to fit the FGX inbound, should be here Friday. They are $26.99 for a set of 4 and 1 package includes rims,tires, and inserts. These are the spec tire for the UF1 Midwest series

racer robert

iTrader: (3)

Just put the finishing touches on my latest paint job and its my best work to date. Used a Tamiya F104 pro body with decals from the Talented BP shadow.

Chassis is Exotek F1R,


Enjoy,

InspGadgt

Very nice!

Sith Lord

iTrader: (21)

looks sweet