"Hard Case" 7.4v 4000mAh 25C Lipo Under $60
09-19-2008, 07:12 PM
#166
Tech Initiate
Their price does not make them conducive to buying and testing. They charge twice as much for a 4000 than for a 3200 and most people find the 3200's adequate for their needs.
I can guarantee you that you get more total runtime from 2 x 3200's than 1 x 4000, so unless you absolutely need that little bit of extra power, use your money more wisely.
I can guarantee you that you get more total runtime from 2 x 3200's than 1 x 4000, so unless you absolutely need that little bit of extra power, use your money more wisely.
09-19-2008, 11:45 PM
#167
Totally agree.
09-20-2008, 05:38 AM
#168
Shouldn't be long for feedback. Lots of racers received there batteries.
The testing we've done has had some great results.
3200's 44.95
3600's 49.95
4000's 54.95
The testing we've done has had some great results.
3200's 44.95
3600's 49.95
4000's 54.95
Their price does not make them conducive to buying and testing. They charge twice as much for a 4000 than for a 3200 and most people find the 3200's adequate for their needs.
I can guarantee you that you get more total runtime from 2 x 3200's than 1 x 4000, so unless you absolutely need that little bit of extra power, use your money more wisely.
I can guarantee you that you get more total runtime from 2 x 3200's than 1 x 4000, so unless you absolutely need that little bit of extra power, use your money more wisely.
Last edited by Dan/Ultraline; 09-20-2008 at 08:49 AM. Reason: sp
09-20-2008, 06:33 AM
#169
Tech Initiate
I was looking at the e-bay price where they are selling the 3200's for $35 and the 4000's for $70. Your price for the 3200's is slightly higher and for the 4000's slightly lower.
At $35 the 3200's are a great buy, at $70 the 4000's are not good value for money. But even at $55, I would rather use 3200's for $35 than 4000's for $55 unless I needed the extra capacity, which for 1/10th scale racing I don't.
On ebay you can also get the GE Power 4000 25C batteries for $32, which are even cheaper than the Yeah 3200's and which perform really well. Since getting the GE's I only use the Yeah batteries for warm-up before the race.
As neither battery is ROAR approved the only real comparison between them is value for money and the Yeah seem to have priced themselves out of the market. Either you are ROAR approved and charge a premium or you got to be cheap for the capacity / discharge rate you supply.
At $35 the 3200's are a great buy, at $70 the 4000's are not good value for money. But even at $55, I would rather use 3200's for $35 than 4000's for $55 unless I needed the extra capacity, which for 1/10th scale racing I don't.
On ebay you can also get the GE Power 4000 25C batteries for $32, which are even cheaper than the Yeah 3200's and which perform really well. Since getting the GE's I only use the Yeah batteries for warm-up before the race.
As neither battery is ROAR approved the only real comparison between them is value for money and the Yeah seem to have priced themselves out of the market. Either you are ROAR approved and charge a premium or you got to be cheap for the capacity / discharge rate you supply.
09-20-2008, 07:51 AM
#170
You had posted here so I thought you were talking about our prices, my bad.
As for the GE Power 4000 being so cheep, thier not HARD case right?
As for the GE Power 4000 being so cheep, thier not HARD case right?
I was looking at the e-bay price where they are selling the 3200's for $35 and the 4000's for $70. Your price for the 3200's is slightly higher and for the 4000's slightly lower.
At $35 the 3200's are a great buy, at $70 the 4000's are not good value for money. But even at $55, I would rather use 3200's for $35 than 4000's for $55 unless I needed the extra capacity, which for 1/10th scale racing I don't.
On ebay you can also get the GE Power 4000 25C batteries for $32, which are even cheaper than the Yeah 3200's and which perform really well. Since getting the GE's I only use the Yeah batteries for warm-up before the race.
As neither battery is ROAR approved the only real comparison between them is value for money and the Yeah seem to have priced themselves out of the market. Either you are ROAR approved and charge a premium or you got to be cheap for the capacity / discharge rate you supply.
At $35 the 3200's are a great buy, at $70 the 4000's are not good value for money. But even at $55, I would rather use 3200's for $35 than 4000's for $55 unless I needed the extra capacity, which for 1/10th scale racing I don't.
On ebay you can also get the GE Power 4000 25C batteries for $32, which are even cheaper than the Yeah 3200's and which perform really well. Since getting the GE's I only use the Yeah batteries for warm-up before the race.
As neither battery is ROAR approved the only real comparison between them is value for money and the Yeah seem to have priced themselves out of the market. Either you are ROAR approved and charge a premium or you got to be cheap for the capacity / discharge rate you supply.
09-20-2008, 02:43 PM
#171
Tech Initiate
Sorry, I did not realise this is an UltraLine site / thread, so I was not commenting on your prices but was talking about the prices I have seen on the web, which is predominantly eBay.
GE Power are not hard case, which makes them lighter than hard case batteries and easier to get rid of any heat build-up. Provided you have your battery inside your car and do not strap it under or on top of your car, the cars battery holder is the hard case for the battery. I lack the appreciation of an advantage for hard case batteries over soft case. I put batteries into 2 categories, ROAR approved or NOT.
GE Power are not hard case, which makes them lighter than hard case batteries and easier to get rid of any heat build-up. Provided you have your battery inside your car and do not strap it under or on top of your car, the cars battery holder is the hard case for the battery. I lack the appreciation of an advantage for hard case batteries over soft case. I put batteries into 2 categories, ROAR approved or NOT.
09-20-2008, 06:44 PM
#172
Guys what chargers/balancers do you suggest for the yeah racing lipo's that won't break the bank ?. Thanks.
09-21-2008, 12:01 AM
#175
Tech Initiate
I would recommend the http://www.maxamps.com/EOS0610i-DUO.htm which allows you to charge 2 batteries at once without having to buy 2 chargers (the 2 batteries can be totally different type and capacity), plus it allows you to charge your batteries at 10 Amps, rather than the 6 Amp max of the previous 2 recommendations. Considering you probably want to keep your charger for a few years and battery technology does advance at crazy rates, limiting yourself to a 6 Amp charge is very short sighted.
I own the EOS0610i-DUO, as well as a Triton and a Futaba CDR-5000 and find the EOS to be great. The only thing the EOS line seems to lack is a discharge feature.
I own the EOS0610i-DUO, as well as a Triton and a Futaba CDR-5000 and find the EOS to be great. The only thing the EOS line seems to lack is a discharge feature.
09-21-2008, 09:37 AM
#176
Finally Sounds like your learning
Lots of guys like the Core-rc Charger/blanancer it's under $100
Good chagers also.
Another good choice.
Sorry, I did not realise this is an UltraLine site / thread, so I was not commenting on your prices but was talking about the prices I have seen on the web, which is predominantly eBay.
GE Power are not hard case, which makes them lighter than hard case batteries and easier to get rid of any heat build-up. Provided you have your battery inside your car and do not strap it under or on top of your car, the cars battery holder is the hard case for the battery. I lack the appreciation of an advantage for hard case batteries over soft case. I put batteries into 2 categories, ROAR approved or NOT.
GE Power are not hard case, which makes them lighter than hard case batteries and easier to get rid of any heat build-up. Provided you have your battery inside your car and do not strap it under or on top of your car, the cars battery holder is the hard case for the battery. I lack the appreciation of an advantage for hard case batteries over soft case. I put batteries into 2 categories, ROAR approved or NOT.
I would recommend the http://www.maxamps.com/EOS0610i-DUO.htm which allows you to charge 2 batteries at once without having to buy 2 chargers (the 2 batteries can be totally different type and capacity), plus it allows you to charge your batteries at 10 Amps, rather than the 6 Amp max of the previous 2 recommendations. Considering you probably want to keep your charger for a few years and battery technology does advance at crazy rates, limiting yourself to a 6 Amp charge is very short sighted.
I own the EOS0610i-DUO, as well as a Triton and a Futaba CDR-5000 and find the EOS to be great. The only thing the EOS line seems to lack is a discharge feature.
I own the EOS0610i-DUO, as well as a Triton and a Futaba CDR-5000 and find the EOS to be great. The only thing the EOS line seems to lack is a discharge feature.
09-21-2008, 04:21 PM
#177
Thanks guys for the info. I have ordered the 3600mah battery from Ultraline and decided on the turnigy accucell 6 ( http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=7028 ).
Would I need anything else like a balancer adapter or will the turnigy work fine with this battery ?
Would I need anything else like a balancer adapter or will the turnigy work fine with this battery ?
09-22-2008, 12:51 PM
#179
The one I got does need a DC power source, picked one up for $18 shipped.
09-23-2008, 01:59 AM
#180
GE Power are not hard case, which makes them lighter than hard case batteries and easier to get rid of any heat build-up. Provided you have your battery inside your car and do not strap it under or on top of your car, the cars battery holder is the hard case for the battery. I lack the appreciation of an advantage for hard case batteries over soft case. I put batteries into 2 categories, ROAR approved or NOT.
Last edited by stocker; 09-23-2008 at 02:20 AM.