losithrasher

i have a gen x 10 for sale, still in the box.

lidebt2

iTrader: (21)

You have a PM

lidebt2

iTrader: (21)

I picked up a BRP Super Air-Flow Adjustable Wing, Darkside Body Wing Mount System and Darkside Aluminum Wing Buttons for my Battle Axe.

Does anyone have any real good photos on mounting a wing?

I have been out of oval for a long time and currently running TC and I know it different wing setup. No one here runs oval so I have nothing to look at.

Thanks for any help.

Rick

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

Here is a pic from earlier in the thread.
John

lidebt2

iTrader: (21)

Thanks John

espresso1967

iTrader: (18)

Ok I posted on the CRC Gen X 10 thread last night that I got my first test run at work in the parking structure. Smooth floor but very dirty as when I was through my clean looking kit was black full of black dust. No problem used some air to clean her up and back on the shelf she went.

Ok so I got up this morning and during my month of building this kit I managed to balance the car with the HUDY Chassis Balancing Tool #107880 but to have peace of mind I went out this morning and bought a second scale to see if I was on the money. Well I was off just a couple of oz on one side not bad for the balancing tabs. I fixed it and she is ready for the track tomorrow.

Big thanks to John for all the helpful information on this thread. I did not rush the build as I wanted to get it right the first time. Replaced all aluminum screws with steel ones, used blue loctite where John mentioned and followed to the T. I think I have a winner here.

I will try to get some video of my practice runs at Crystal Park tomorrow.

Setup:
ss17.5
Spur: 78t 48p
Pinion: 31t
esc: Novak GTB
Battery: Yea Racing 3200mah lipo x 3
Tires: Jaco foams pink all around, have some purple fronts in case I need to test at track.
Chasis: Added HPI Chassis protector to protect my investment
Bodies: Saleen s7 and Corvette c6 will be picking up more bodies later but I am good for now.
Car Weight with saleen body: 2lbs 10.5oz

Tools used:
Unity Tweak station
two scales
Hudy Balancing Tool

Reading material
John's thread of course
and
Mark Payne

Ok now to perfect my driving and go racing YEA!

Some pics wiring has been cleaned up since these pictures were taken.

espresso1967

iTrader: (18)

Well I finally did it, my first run on a real track nothing spectacular but it was good. Unfortunately my day got cut very short as after 30 minutes I lost one of the tweak springs and I am new to this, I have not built up my extra parts drawer yet. On that note what are some of the common parts that I should keep in stock for the gen x 10? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Well here is a very short video and I should have zoomed in on the track but you can still see the car 3 laps so be patient as it takes me a bit to get back around twice before the video ends.. Now I shot this at the end of the straight away corner.

P.S. Nitro guys were cool with me since I was the only guy with an electric there but I did catch some guys attention and were impressed with the car.
I will get video next weekend from the second angle where the nitro guys are going into the straight.

Here is my video shot today
http://youtube.com/watch?v=wRGFLUzPBTI
and here is a different angle of the track some time ago.
http://youtube.com/watch?v=xYVOdW6Dt9M

lidebt2

iTrader: (21)

I've run the car twice since getting it back. I have made no changes since John had it.

Track: Indoor Flat Asphalt
Size: 95 by 40

Thursday

First run was with BSR Red rubbers. The tires didn't work at all. Changed to the pinks I had sent john. Still N/G. Switched again to BSR foams. LF -White, RF -Black, LR - White, and RR - Pearl White. This made a big difference and brought my lap times down to 6.0 to 6.3.

I put the car way after running about 125 to 150 laps.

Today

I switched tires again to double pink (the pan car drivers are running these on the road course and that is all the HS had) all the way around and ran times of 4.9 - 5.2. I ran about 100 laps until
i went to avoid a touring car that was trying oval and met up with a barrier to end the day. I have to order a lower rear bottom plate from CRC.

One of the 12th scale national drivers was running a pan car with a 10.5 B/L and was running about the same time as me with 13.5.

End of this report.

Next weekend I will have the new BSR foams and hopefully the parts from CRC.

John check your email account. A friend of mine has been getting your email when I was sending it to you. I have to look at who I'm sending email to because his name is spelled very close to your John.

Take care,

Rick

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

Thanks for the reports guys.
Rick very nice tire report. Changing to double pink gave you a whole second. I thought those whites would have worked well. They must have been coming apart.

Here is a list of spare parts you should have on hand to run pan.

Pod Top Plate, Pod Bottom Plate, Front graphite Bumper
1 spare front top and bottom arm
1 spare set of king pins, e-clips, (kingpin shims (non CRC pans))
Those little brass set screws that hold the kingpins on the CRC Pro strut front end
spare set of front axles
1 spare set of steering arms
Spare Body posts.
Spare front and rear wheel bearings.
Spare spurs, several.
Spare Ball cups. I like the Losi XXT ball cups and cut them to suit.
Spare pinions if Aluminum
A set of diff rings.
Diff lube.
1 set of ride height spacers for the front.
I particularly like a set of IRS ride height spacers for the rear.
I never lost a tweak spring but I guess it would be good to have a spare set. Make sure they are captive on the upper threaded insert. You have to push really hard to get them to pop on.

I went ahead and got a spare set of red aluminum screws for one of the 1/12 cars. I went through a few in a short time. Steel are much better if you are underweight.

If you run Aluminum body posts. Whatever they attach to on the frame will tend to break in a crash. Get some spare graphite pieces if you do. If you run plastic body posts your front bumper and tweak plates will be long lived if you protect the front bumper with a foam bumper of some kind. Stormer had a nice large gray foam bumper ASC8305 for the RC10l3O pan car that I liked. I sent one to Rick. CRC has one now as well.

That center pivot ball in Aluminum was creaking moaning and groaning in less than a month. Get a steel one an ASC 4336 RC10 T-plate car.
John

Remember that buying this little crap is part of the pleasure of owning an RC car. You maintain it frequently like you would a real race car.

Quante

iTrader: (6)

Hi all,

I'm designing a pro10 atm and here's what I got thusfar.
Since the track I race at has gotten a lot worse the last few years (I have got the 1/8th nitro's to thank for that), I needed something that can keep the car planted throughout the bumps. Thats why I went for a damped front end and a link-style rearend. I'm gonna run 2S Lipo's in it and I drive mod.
I know John has a lot of experience so I hope he or others can check it out and tell me what you think about it, maybe give me some things to improve/ watch out for. Since I dont wanna load this thread with it (its about GenX,...), you can allways mail me at: dirk.quanten"at"scarlet.be .
If anyone needs some stepfiles, feel free to contact me.
Thx

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

Quante-No problem loading the thread. There is 1/10 pan in the title. Any experiments are welcome. I took a look at the schematic. I like the front end. Is there going to be an upper link on the steering upright? If so then I would like it a lot. If you make some parts up to mimic the length of those I have pictured you will be surprised at the performance advantage. I have tried center pivot side link rear ends on our bumpy track. I like it better that a T-plate. I get a couple MPH more on the straight. I get 5 mph more with a 3-link though.
Without upper links then that front end is called a swing arm design. The main defficiency here is that the tire scrubs acrross the track as it goes up into bump. There is also not as much negative camber gain. The Associated suspesion modified with that nice lower arm rigid upper arm and a shock would be better than a swing arm, but not as good as dual A-arms or single A-arm and upper link. A suspension with a kingpin and a strut (Macpherson strut in this case) plus a shock would in my opinion meet the World GT class rules. Now watch them change that rule up a bit.
I like that lower A-arm a lot. It is nice and wide near the cars center, long, low to clear steering links. I would work great on my cars. I see a ball cup leaving the left front steering upright. I hope that is a good sign there might be upper links to come.

Gen X 10 Back from the Paint Booth
Jeff Parker manager at Mikes-HobbyShop.com in Porter (near Houston) Texas was nice enough to put on a two color paint scheme (body and black window strapping) using a Protoform newly released C6R Corvette Body (see post below). It came out really nice and is attracting a lot of attention for our coming indoor carpet track. Here are some pics. Now if you want this particular car it may be for sale. Give Jeff a call at 281 577-8250. It has the same (but new) servo I installed in the car previously. Assembly and paint will be extra of course if it is for sale. I personally assembled this one. Note we round the bottom corners of the wheel arch cutout quite a bit more and remove material behind the wheel (you should not be able to hit the car from behind and have that arch stick on top of the tire) before we race the car.


I raced my 3-link prototype today. I'll put a report in a post later. No new Battle Axe yet to tinker with.

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

So I was looking at this view of the Corvette from accross the room and maybe its the best view. Look at the way the front fender comes in at the waist. The way it bulges. This body seems to fit the tires on this car extremely well requiring minimal cutting of wheel arches. It took about 8 tries to get this in focus.

Screws
Since I added heavy duty front bumpers, my car has been a bit overweight. I thought I would try some new titanium screws in #4-40 x 1 inch. Because of the long length the weight benefit would be at a maximum. Well in two separate crashes They each poped off the head. One in the main. I had qualified second but by only .001 a virtual tie. I had raced them succesfully several times. On my car these screws hold the front of my beefy side links. Well back to black oxide steel screws.

Here is some data on steel screws from McMaster Carr.
Alloy Steel Screw (Black Oxide Finish) #4-40 x 3/16 144,000 pounds per square inch (grade 10.9)

18-8 Stainless Steel Screw #4-40 x 3/16 77,000 pounds per square inch
3-16 Stainless Steel Screw #4-40 x 3/16 70,000 pounds per square inch more corrosion resistant than 18-8.

I have seen Titanium about the 65,000 psi but can be as high as good steel in the right alloy. 6ALV4 Titanium alloy is 125,00 psi.
I have seen T6 temper Aluminum at about 59,000 psi, Thats about 2 times weaker than the grade 10 steel Losi and Associated screws.


If you have to add lead to your car there is no reason to use weak screws.

MikeXray

iTrader: (73)

That is the Proline C6R.

espresso1967

iTrader: (18)

Thanks John for the list of parts. Yes it is like a race car and up keep is mandatory if you want to have your car handling properly at the track. I did sit down and look over the car, clean her up more and noticed that one of my front tires was not spinning freely. Well it appeared that my front king ping got loose and started rubbing on inner part of the rim. It does not appear it ran much and it probably happened right around the time I lost one of the rear springs. I did hit some tires at the end of the straight and may have happened there.

I did take my damper tubes and cleaned them up and re-lube. I also took the steering tie rods as I want to make sure that they are same length on each end and will do that tomorrow. I also want to spend some time on toe in, camber, caster and want to make sure all that is good.

Now that the car has been built and taken out to the track I can focus on some important factors that will make my car handle that way I want.

Also I did use some sun tan lotion (Coppertone 45 spf) and when I first got onto the track I had great traction while a couple of guys were slipping and sliding as the track had not been treated and a bit dusty. I did notice that after 10 laps that I lost traction and maybe that is when I lost the rear spring or what. Have you ever used the sun screen lotion method? I put a fist coat and waited half hour and put a second coast about 20-30 minutes before I started running.

The track is not always treated if not many guys are on the track practicing so have to have a back up plan for those days for better traction.

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

Thanks Mike

Expresso1967- I like Jack the Gripper by Corally. I have tried suntan lotion on top of this and on top of paragon Traction Action. I have not noticed an improvement over using the Jack the Gripper by itself. I therefore don't like using the Suntan lotion which smells up my kit. The jack the gripper is mostly oderless and does not bother me too much outdoors.

Those little set screws that hold the kingpins on CRC Pro strut front end need some blue loctite applied. Otherwise they loosen up and eventually fall out on the track. Order some spares. A steel set screw will work fine in an emergency. When the pin unthreads a turn or two it does rub on the inside the rim. The threads weaken the pin a bit also so sometimes they bend in a crash. Have some spares available. I'll add these brass setscrews to the above list.

if your wheelnuts are too tight you create a side load which makes them turn slowly as well.

A backpack sprayer costs about $80. I bought one to sugar the track during my practice. For a group of five people it might be worth splitting one.