Timmie

iTrader: (3)

No, you need to check the free play with what ever diff you run always. When I run a one way in my car I have to change the amount of shims I use versus when I have a spool. You might not even need shims, depends on how the parts you have fit your car. I know it seems to be a pain to do but saves you from getting frustrated with a broken car later. If you change your diffs back and forth a lot you can do what I do. Once I know how many shims I need for a diff, when I am not using it I put it in a small zip lock bag and with a marker write, 2 shims left, 4 shims right etc. on the bag. Then when I want to make a diff change I just make sure the shims are right and drop it in the car. I only use .1 shims so if you use .3 shims you would need to specify how many of those were needed.

DriftWoof

iTrader: (4)

I think I understand. I plan on just sticking the front one way and rear spool in and closing it until it breaks or needs to be clean(could be years since it's sealed?) I have to make sure there is no play and that the gears are meshing correctly? Not too tight though correct? Leave as much play as you would with the motor pinion and spur gear when installing a motor?


EDIT: Also, I wish there was a better way to turnbuckles come off easier. I can get them off but when I do I feel like I am going to rip and arm off or break something since it comes off all of a sudden. If anyone knows any proper techniques for turnbuckles removal please let me know then.

MatsNorway

Not sure this is the right tread...

anyway...

Some of you may already have seen this but for those who don`t have....


enjoy..

http://fastestrc.blogspot.com/2008/0...iya-evo-5.html

CSaddict

iTrader: (13)

Well Damn it! I just got my 46mm swing shafts in and I installed them. They are so long they bind when I get the top link hooked up. I tried also pulling out the cushions in the drive cups with no luck. WTF I read a few pages back that 46mm were the correct shafts? I guess I should have got 44mm?

Racecrafter

iTrader: (25)

??? I have run 46mm shafts all season long with no issues.

How much camber are you running?

Ay Way Way

iTrader: (3)

yeah u will need the 44mm, i just got them installed and it is soo much better.

The 46 didn't bind on me but it was a tight fit, at which i didn't like it

CSaddict

iTrader: (13)

I tried it with NO camber and it still binds. It binds badly and the driveshafts are bottomed out in the cups. I just switched back to the dog bones and its fine. I don't know what to think. The new ones are clearly longer than the dog bone+axle combo I took out.

Swift and Sleek

iTrader: (10)

GUYS,

I HAVE FOUND OUT SOMETHING REGARDING MY PROBLEM WITH THE SHAFT BINDING. THERE WAS NO BINDING RIGHT NOW AFTER A LOOK INSIDE THE GEAR CASES. I FOUND OUT TOGETHER WITH SOME OF OUR LOCAL RACERS THAT THE SHIMMING VARRIES WITH THE KIND OF GEAR CASE THAT YOU WILL USE. AS FOR ME I USE A CARBON REINFORCED GEAR CASE FRONT AND REAR. I USED ONLY ONE PIECE OF SHIMMING ON EACH SIDE.

HAVING SAID IM NOW USING A CENTER ONE WAY AND I NOTICE SOMETHING AND I DON'T KNOW IF ITS NORMAL OR NOT. I NOTICED THAT THE PROPELLER JOINT SET REAR GOES UP AND DOWN.

HERE'S A VIDEO ON IT:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFngmwjx-NA

I AM NOW LEFT WITH THE KNUCKLE ARM MOTION TO NOT BEING STIFF FOR BEING STIFF WILL NOT LET THE SHOCKS DO ITS WORK. HAVE YOU GUYS TRIED SANDING THE KNUCKLE ARM OR USING DIFFERENT SHIMMING FOR THE KNUCKLE ARM TO SWING FREELY.

REFERENCE PICTURE IS ATTACHED

Timmie

iTrader: (3)

Sorry to hear of your frustration. What suspension blocks are you using? If you have a variety of the blocks, run c/c or d/d up front and the 46mm axles should clear fine. You could also run the standard length reversible arms to get a little extra width. This will widen the front of your car. Is this binding only on the front or is it on the rear as well?

Timmie

iTrader: (3)

Wrong thread, same drivetrain, different chassis... but close enough Thanks I did enjoy that....wish I could drive it

Timmie

iTrader: (3)

Buy hex headed ballstuds, then use a body reamer or take a hobby knife and cut the tops off your ballcups. Then you can just unscrew the ball stud with camber link attached to do what you need to

CSaddict

iTrader: (13)

Timmie, the kit is box stock (with a front spool added) and assembled per instructions. Are they other suspension blocks in the kit? I will have to take a look. You are refering to the lateral blocks on the bottom that house the arm pins?

If I use D blocks in the front it will make it narrower. I measured and the 1A is the widest set of the bunch. Maybe Im not sure what you are talking about....

I have not tried the swing shafts in the rear. I had the front lose a dog bone the first day I drove it so I figured that would be a good place to start.

Timmie

iTrader: (3)

[QUOTE=Swift and Sleek;6336062]GUYS,

I HAVE FOUND OUT SOMETHING REGARDING MY PROBLEM WITH THE SHAFT BINDING. THERE WAS NO BINDING RIGHT NOW AFTER A LOOK INSIDE THE GEAR CASES. I FOUND OUT TOGETHER WITH SOME OF OUR LOCAL RACERS THAT THE SHIMMING VARRIES WITH THE KIND OF GEAR CASE THAT YOU WILL USE. AS FOR ME I USE A CARBON REINFORCED GEAR CASE FRONT AND REAR. I USED ONLY ONE PIECE OF SHIMMING ON EACH SIDE.

HAVING SAID IM NOW USING A CENTER ONE WAY AND I NOTICE SOMETHING AND I DON'T KNOW IF ITS NORMAL OR NOT. I NOTICED THAT THE PROPELLER JOINT SET REAR GOES UP AND DOWN.

HERE'S A VIDEO ON IT:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFngmwjx-NA

I AM NOW LEFT WITH THE KNUCKLE ARM MOTION TO NOT BEING STIFF FOR BEING STIFF WILL NOT LET THE SHOCKS DO ITS WORK. HAVE YOU GUYS TRIED SANDING THE KNUCKLE ARM OR USING DIFFERENT SHIMMING FOR THE KNUCKLE ARM TO SWING FREELY.

REFERENCE PICTURE IS ATTACHED[/QUOTE
Like I said before, you have to check shimming when you change diffs/parts etc to make sure your tolerances have not changed. Its good that you did when you went to the carbon cases, but did you check things out when you put the center one way in? If you shim the center one way correctly, the up and down you are seeing on the prop joint should go away.
Yes, you can do either. I just sand my hub with a fine fingernail file just enough to free things up

CSaddict

iTrader: (13)

OK Timmie I see what you are talking about with suspension blocks. I have XD left over from the rear. I need D or C blocks to make this work?

Timmie

iTrader: (3)

Yes the lateral blocks. Then you have a/a front blocks. No they don't include other blocks in the kit unfortunately. Install the 46mm shafts in the rear and see if they clear ok. The rear uses xa/d so It is a little wider. Worse case scenario if the rears fit, is that you would have to buy a pair off 44mm shafts for the front. Or you could purchase wider front blocks. Buying blocks wouldn't be a bad idea either since they can be used in the rear as well to adjust your rear toe. Let us know how you make out.