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Old 09-11-2009, 05:42 PM
  #1126  
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Originally Posted by DriftWoof View Post
When I install the Front One Way up front, and the Spool in the back do i need to shim? Or just ad the same amount of washers as I have on my Front/Rear Ball diffs?

Just treat it like the I did the ball diff in the directions right?
No, you need to check the free play with what ever diff you run always. When I run a one way in my car I have to change the amount of shims I use versus when I have a spool. You might not even need shims, depends on how the parts you have fit your car. I know it seems to be a pain to do but saves you from getting frustrated with a broken car later. If you change your diffs back and forth a lot you can do what I do. Once I know how many shims I need for a diff, when I am not using it I put it in a small zip lock bag and with a marker write, 2 shims left, 4 shims right etc. on the bag. Then when I want to make a diff change I just make sure the shims are right and drop it in the car. I only use .1 shims so if you use .3 shims you would need to specify how many of those were needed.
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Old 09-11-2009, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Timmie View Post
No, you need to check the free play with what ever diff you run always. When I run a one way in my car I have to change the amount of shims I use versus when I have a spool. You might not even need shims, depends on how the parts you have fit your car. I know it seems to be a pain to do but saves you from getting frustrated with a broken car later. If you change your diffs back and forth a lot you can do what I do. Once I know how many shims I need for a diff, when I am not using it I put it in a small zip lock bag and with a marker write, 2 shims left, 4 shims right etc. on the bag. Then when I want to make a diff change I just make sure the shims are right and drop it in the car. I only use .1 shims so if you use .3 shims you would need to specify how many of those were needed.
I think I understand. I plan on just sticking the front one way and rear spool in and closing it until it breaks or needs to be clean(could be years since it's sealed?) I have to make sure there is no play and that the gears are meshing correctly? Not too tight though correct? Leave as much play as you would with the motor pinion and spur gear when installing a motor?


EDIT: Also, I wish there was a better way to turnbuckles come off easier. I can get them off but when I do I feel like I am going to rip and arm off or break something since it comes off all of a sudden. If anyone knows any proper techniques for turnbuckles removal please let me know then.

Last edited by DriftWoof; 09-12-2009 at 03:55 AM.
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Old 09-12-2009, 02:06 PM
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Not sure this is the right tread...

anyway...

Some of you may already have seen this but for those who don`t have....


enjoy..

http://fastestrc.blogspot.com/2008/0...iya-evo-5.html
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Old 09-12-2009, 07:12 PM
  #1129  
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Well Damn it! I just got my 46mm swing shafts in and I installed them. They are so long they bind when I get the top link hooked up. I tried also pulling out the cushions in the drive cups with no luck. WTF I read a few pages back that 46mm were the correct shafts? I guess I should have got 44mm?
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Old 09-12-2009, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by CSaddict View Post
Well Damn it! I just got my 46mm swing shafts in and I installed them. They are so long they bind when I get the top link hooked up. I tried also pulling out the cushions in the drive cups with no luck. WTF I read a few pages back that 46mm were the correct shafts? I guess I should have got 44mm?
??? I have run 46mm shafts all season long with no issues.

How much camber are you running?
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Old 09-12-2009, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by CSaddict View Post
Well Damn it! I just got my 46mm swing shafts in and I installed them. They are so long they bind when I get the top link hooked up. I tried also pulling out the cushions in the drive cups with no luck. WTF I read a few pages back that 46mm were the correct shafts? I guess I should have got 44mm?
yeah u will need the 44mm, i just got them installed and it is soo much better.

The 46 didn't bind on me but it was a tight fit, at which i didn't like it
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Old 09-12-2009, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Racecrafter View Post
??? I have run 46mm shafts all season long with no issues.

How much camber are you running?
I tried it with NO camber and it still binds. It binds badly and the driveshafts are bottomed out in the cups. I just switched back to the dog bones and its fine. I don't know what to think. The new ones are clearly longer than the dog bone+axle combo I took out.
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Old 09-12-2009, 08:45 PM
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Default TB03 CENTER ONE WAY

GUYS,

I HAVE FOUND OUT SOMETHING REGARDING MY PROBLEM WITH THE SHAFT BINDING. THERE WAS NO BINDING RIGHT NOW AFTER A LOOK INSIDE THE GEAR CASES. I FOUND OUT TOGETHER WITH SOME OF OUR LOCAL RACERS THAT THE SHIMMING VARRIES WITH THE KIND OF GEAR CASE THAT YOU WILL USE. AS FOR ME I USE A CARBON REINFORCED GEAR CASE FRONT AND REAR. I USED ONLY ONE PIECE OF SHIMMING ON EACH SIDE.

HAVING SAID IM NOW USING A CENTER ONE WAY AND I NOTICE SOMETHING AND I DON'T KNOW IF ITS NORMAL OR NOT. I NOTICED THAT THE PROPELLER JOINT SET REAR GOES UP AND DOWN.

HERE'S A VIDEO ON IT:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFngmwjx-NA


I AM NOW LEFT WITH THE KNUCKLE ARM MOTION TO NOT BEING STIFF FOR BEING STIFF WILL NOT LET THE SHOCKS DO ITS WORK. HAVE YOU GUYS TRIED SANDING THE KNUCKLE ARM OR USING DIFFERENT SHIMMING FOR THE KNUCKLE ARM TO SWING FREELY.

REFERENCE PICTURE IS ATTACHED
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya TB-03-knuckle-arm.jpg  

Last edited by Swift and Sleek; 09-12-2009 at 09:59 PM.
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Old 09-13-2009, 04:21 AM
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Originally Posted by CSaddict View Post
I tried it with NO camber and it still binds. It binds badly and the driveshafts are bottomed out in the cups. I just switched back to the dog bones and its fine. I don't know what to think. The new ones are clearly longer than the dog bone+axle combo I took out.
Sorry to hear of your frustration. What suspension blocks are you using? If you have a variety of the blocks, run c/c or d/d up front and the 46mm axles should clear fine. You could also run the standard length reversible arms to get a little extra width. This will widen the front of your car. Is this binding only on the front or is it on the rear as well?
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Old 09-13-2009, 04:24 AM
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Originally Posted by MatsNorway View Post
Not sure this is the right tread...

anyway...

Some of you may already have seen this but for those who don`t have....


enjoy..

http://fastestrc.blogspot.com/2008/0...iya-evo-5.html
Wrong thread, same drivetrain, different chassis... but close enough Thanks I did enjoy that....wish I could drive it
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Old 09-13-2009, 04:34 AM
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Originally Posted by DriftWoof View Post
I think I understand. I plan on just sticking the front one way and rear spool in and closing it until it breaks or needs to be clean(could be years since it's sealed?) I have to make sure there is no play and that the gears are meshing correctly? Not too tight though correct? Leave as much play as you would with the motor pinion and spur gear when installing a motor?

You pretty much got it You need a little bit of play so that the gears mesh without binding. Too much play and you lower the contact patch and risk breaking the tips of the gears off prematurely. And my reference earlier about spur gear/motor pinion mesh was just a example of how to CHECK the free play, not what the free play should be

EDIT: Also, I wish there was a better way to turnbuckles come off easier. I can get them off but when I do I feel like I am going to rip and arm off or break something since it comes off all of a sudden. If anyone knows any proper techniques for turnbuckles removal please let me know then.
Buy hex headed ballstuds, then use a body reamer or take a hobby knife and cut the tops off your ballcups. Then you can just unscrew the ball stud with camber link attached to do what you need to
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Old 09-13-2009, 04:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Timmie View Post
Sorry to hear of your frustration. What suspension blocks are you using? If you have a variety of the blocks, run c/c or d/d up front and the 46mm axles should clear fine. You could also run the standard length reversible arms to get a little extra width. This will widen the front of your car. Is this binding only on the front or is it on the rear as well?
Timmie, the kit is box stock (with a front spool added) and assembled per instructions. Are they other suspension blocks in the kit? I will have to take a look. You are refering to the lateral blocks on the bottom that house the arm pins?

If I use D blocks in the front it will make it narrower. I measured and the 1A is the widest set of the bunch. Maybe Im not sure what you are talking about....

I have not tried the swing shafts in the rear. I had the front lose a dog bone the first day I drove it so I figured that would be a good place to start.

Last edited by CSaddict; 09-13-2009 at 04:54 AM.
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Old 09-13-2009, 04:44 AM
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[QUOTE=Swift and Sleek;6336062]GUYS,

I HAVE FOUND OUT SOMETHING REGARDING MY PROBLEM WITH THE SHAFT BINDING. THERE WAS NO BINDING RIGHT NOW AFTER A LOOK INSIDE THE GEAR CASES. I FOUND OUT TOGETHER WITH SOME OF OUR LOCAL RACERS THAT THE SHIMMING VARRIES WITH THE KIND OF GEAR CASE THAT YOU WILL USE. AS FOR ME I USE A CARBON REINFORCED GEAR CASE FRONT AND REAR. I USED ONLY ONE PIECE OF SHIMMING ON EACH SIDE.

HAVING SAID IM NOW USING A CENTER ONE WAY AND I NOTICE SOMETHING AND I DON'T KNOW IF ITS NORMAL OR NOT. I NOTICED THAT THE PROPELLER JOINT SET REAR GOES UP AND DOWN.

HERE'S A VIDEO ON IT:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFngmwjx-NA


I AM NOW LEFT WITH THE KNUCKLE ARM MOTION TO NOT BEING STIFF FOR BEING STIFF WILL NOT LET THE SHOCKS DO ITS WORK. HAVE YOU GUYS TRIED SANDING THE KNUCKLE ARM OR USING DIFFERENT SHIMMING FOR THE KNUCKLE ARM TO SWING FREELY.

REFERENCE PICTURE IS ATTACHED[/QUOTE
Like I said before, you have to check shimming when you change diffs/parts etc to make sure your tolerances have not changed. Its good that you did when you went to the carbon cases, but did you check things out when you put the center one way in? If you shim the center one way correctly, the up and down you are seeing on the prop joint should go away.
Yes, you can do either. I just sand my hub with a fine fingernail file just enough to free things up
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Old 09-13-2009, 05:01 AM
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OK Timmie I see what you are talking about with suspension blocks. I have XD left over from the rear. I need D or C blocks to make this work?
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Old 09-13-2009, 05:02 AM
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Originally Posted by CSaddict View Post
Timmie, the kit is box stock (with a front spool added) and assembled per instructions. Are they other suspension blocks in the kit? I will have to take a look. You are refering to the lateral blocks on the bottom that house the arm pins?

I have not tried the swing shafts in the rear. I had the front lose a dog bone the first day I drove it so I figured that would be a good place to start.
Yes the lateral blocks. Then you have a/a front blocks. No they don't include other blocks in the kit unfortunately. Install the 46mm shafts in the rear and see if they clear ok. The rear uses xa/d so It is a little wider. Worse case scenario if the rears fit, is that you would have to buy a pair off 44mm shafts for the front. Or you could purchase wider front blocks. Buying blocks wouldn't be a bad idea either since they can be used in the rear as well to adjust your rear toe. Let us know how you make out.
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