over gear

iTrader: (18)

just finished my 414m2

slowhand

EAGLE have aluminum front upright

Pyramid

For aluminum parts.. look for Eagle Racing, distributed by Integy in the US. Another one is Cross Racing which I think better because the comes in either sliver or black anodized. The Integy is bad red.


About TRF-Powered ... Torgue Rod things ... It is the upper link support that is remove and I personally do not like that either.

Rough512... TA-04R cost USD180 in Indonesia and the upcoming 414WReplica expected around USD450

marvi

iTrader: (82)

thanks

Alvin

Raced my 414M in a new kinda race setting. "Super Open Modified"! No holds barred racing, rubbers and foams allowed, brushed or brushless motors. Rule mainly was 6 cells, 4 door touring sedans only, though I was wondering if I could pop in with a direct drive Corally CCT (i don't have a cct anyway just wondering). Anyway, foams or rubber didn't seem to matter much. Final qualifying saw the TQ running a 11x2 brushed motor and rubber tires. I qualified 3rd position on the A main grid with a 14x2 and rubber tires too. 2nd position was a Xray T1, foamed up and Brushless (definition of speed. And handling was excellent).

Here's my new flagship body ;-)



Sucks up close. A lot of paint bleed.

Interceptor

iTrader: (6)

Beautiful car, wish I were that creative when painting.

Aurra Sing

You used all your TRF decals on one body! How dare you! They're the coolest decals ever created!

SpeedTech

iTrader: (5)

marvi,

For 48 pitch gear, I usually run a 90 spur or a 89 spur with a 29 or 30 for stock motor, and I run a 92 spur with a 25 or a 26 for modified. Hope that gives you a good starting point.

We got more Tamiya 414M parts in stock which will be updated later on this week including some TRF decals

Steve Wang
Speed Tech R/C
www.speedtechrc.com

Alvin

Oh guys, a little note on the anti dive. I usualy run my car at a track populated largely by nitro tourers. On sunday the track was so damn clean, but the afternoon my car exhibited off power oversteering. I was about to adjust the rear downstop to limit weight transfer forward when it hit me - anti dive. The anti dive on the front significantly decreased my off power steering to the point it was excellent for the corners, and it gave me even more on-power steering. In retrospec, apart from adjusting the anti-dive in the front I could have tried setting the rear anti-squat to 0 degrees for a more stable rear end. Oh well next time ;-)

Interceptor: Nah I'm not. I got the scheme off a hpi box! I usually run a red/white car so for my new stratus I happened upon that jewel.

Aurra: Haha I still got a few packs left ;-)

Babblefish

Hi guys. Just thought I'd share some pics of my 414MII. Haven't driven it a lot yet, but I can already tell it handles better than my TA04-R. Note the front and rear shocks. Most of the screws have been replaced with stainless steel for strength. The steering servo is a Hitec 225MG which required drilling a new mounting hole. Current motor is a Trinity Midnight 2 Pro, but may be replaced with an MVP. All axles and steering arms have been shimmed to remove almost all slop. Yeah, the body posts need trimming...looks newbie!

marvi

iTrader: (82)

thanks speedtech

TRF-Powered

I never get this, what does it mean when a part of RC car is shimmed? Does it mean that the builder add shims under the screw? or does it means something else?

Aurra Sing

Speedtech, can you give us a clue as to which 414 parts will be available? Is the $90 price for the lower chassis a typo?

TRF-Powered, to shim something is to add shims or spacers to reduce slop/play in the component.

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Everyone, take a look at this.

Trips

iTrader: (16)

It can mean what you're saying, putting shims under a mounting screw to change the height of a part, but in the case of axles it means putting some very thin washers on the axle so that there is very little or no end play (pretty much the same idea as the shims on the armature in our motors)

Trips

ruf

iTrader: (3)

That's not the only thing that makes it look newbie...

If you plan on racing that thing, try the following:

1) Get a real servo. The Hitec 225MG is very prone to frying it's motor. I've gone through 4 of them in the past on random projects. Hitec has great service, but I'd rather have a great servo and not have to exercise the warranty claim. It also does not have the torque or precision for use in a 4wd sedan of this caliber.

2) Get a real body. The HPI Mustang is horrible. Period. As ugly as they are, get a Stratus of some sort and paint/sticker it like another car. If your sanctioning body doesn't care, and you must have a Ford, try the GT40.

3) Get one more pair of real wheels/tires. You now own one of the most balanced 4wd sedans ever made. It would be a shame if your compromised that handling in the effort to make it resemble a muscle car by using differential width tires. The X-patterns are a great tire for parking lot, but stick to 24-26mm.

4) Unless you absolutely need to run them, please ditch the stick packs. Those old powerpole connectors aren't helping either.

5) Stand up your shocks. That angle may look cool, but you now have a rising rate suspension. If you are indeed racing on parking lot surfaces (loose), that will compromise your traction at the limits. The white springs don't help either seeing as they are pretty stiff. This should lead to the front end washing out mid-corner if not immediately upon turn-in. I can't tell what rear springs you are running, but judging by the wire diameter and coil separation, they look pretty soft. It appears to me that you've set your car up to push deep into a corner and powerslide on exit. This may look cool, but your corner speed will be compromised and your speed through the infield will be much slower.

6) Then cut your body posts.

Honestly, if you're not racing, none of this matters. Enjoy it. I think that you'll find that a lot of us think it's a shame to purchase such a potent racing chassis as the 414M2 and not set it up accordingly.