TRF414M, 404x, 414, 414X
#1726
Originally posted by Pit-racer
peaches
Thanks fella's I want to use saddle packs. Just w/ my fat fingers I'll mess all the tape up.
peaches
Thanks fella's I want to use saddle packs. Just w/ my fat fingers I'll mess all the tape up.
BTW, does the414M have more or less 50%-50% weight distribution between front and rear wheels? My TRF414 doesn't seem to be balanced from end t0 end. The battery and motor are located further back compared to the TRF414M Am I losing much in terms of performance because of this?
Compare my Chassis's battery slots/ motor position to Imataquito's
#1727
Originally posted by Nonstopone
You can use some battery straps. I am using some buds straps and they work really well.... The onlt bad thing about using the straps is if you get in a bad collision they can loosen up and the packs may slide off the side some, setting the balance of the car off some. I have been really happy with the 414M. No more breaking parts since I got it...... and I hit more than my fair share of things....
You can use some battery straps. I am using some buds straps and they work really well.... The onlt bad thing about using the straps is if you get in a bad collision they can loosen up and the packs may slide off the side some, setting the balance of the car off some. I have been really happy with the 414M. No more breaking parts since I got it...... and I hit more than my fair share of things....
#1728
Originally posted by Pit-racer
I'm thinking of getting a 414mII, but the only thing I see problematic in the battery strapping. I hate dealing w/ tape is there a solution to win me over?
I'm thinking of getting a 414mII, but the only thing I see problematic in the battery strapping. I hate dealing w/ tape is there a solution to win me over?
Get a 414mII.
Next year we going to race at TCS.
#1729
Tech Regular
Originally posted by Macky
You can use the battery hold downs for the Xray. They work great.
You can use the battery hold downs for the Xray. They work great.
thanks
#1730
hmmmmmm rough the 414 looked more like my other car a kawada sv102
check out pic ....
i think u can balance tings up by using softer springs upfront and lower ride upfront so there will be more weight on the front wheels ...
check out pic ....
i think u can balance tings up by using softer springs upfront and lower ride upfront so there will be more weight on the front wheels ...
#1731
i forgot to ask ...... how much does the first version 414m ( silver color) car goes for now ??
and how much more will the m2 be ??
and how much more will the m2 be ??
#1732
i've seen it go for $300 and less. u'd think it'd be worth more but nope. but it's an AWESOME car. the MII goes for around 280, more or less.
#1733
Originally posted by reflekt
i've seen it go for $300 and less. u'd think it'd be worth more but nope. but it's an AWESOME car. the MII goes for around 280, more or less.
i've seen it go for $300 and less. u'd think it'd be worth more but nope. but it's an AWESOME car. the MII goes for around 280, more or less.
where did u get that frm..
#1734
US dollars?...
#1735
Originally posted by ijnek
US dollars?...
US dollars?...
#1736
yep. that's in US dollars. u gotta keep your eyes peeled and on the look out. I just saw two 414M's sell on Ebay. one for $315 and another selling for $295 buy it now and it was Relisted cuz it didnt sell for $300??? i dont kno why. but if i had the money to burn, i would've bought it. peaches.
#1737
Tech Apprentice
I don't know about the 414M, but I bought my 414M2 about 2 weeks ago, and I paid $259 + shipping.
I just completed building my kit on Saturday, and I must admit that it was actually a plearuse to build. The shocks are simply outstanding in quailty. Tamiya somehow prevented the inside of the shock from becoming anodized, then it looks as if they polished the inside to an almost mirror like finish... very smooth action!!!
Question/concern:
I won't get to race my car for at least 4 months, but I'm a little concerned about small stones and debris getting caught under the front and rear diffs. Have any of you guys experienced stuff getting trapped there? Has anyone cut openings under the diffs to allow debris to easily escape?
I did that with my old Yokomo YR4-M2 after having a belt destroyed by a small stone. The track that I race on is very clean, but you know Murphy's Law.
I just completed building my kit on Saturday, and I must admit that it was actually a plearuse to build. The shocks are simply outstanding in quailty. Tamiya somehow prevented the inside of the shock from becoming anodized, then it looks as if they polished the inside to an almost mirror like finish... very smooth action!!!
Question/concern:
I won't get to race my car for at least 4 months, but I'm a little concerned about small stones and debris getting caught under the front and rear diffs. Have any of you guys experienced stuff getting trapped there? Has anyone cut openings under the diffs to allow debris to easily escape?
I did that with my old Yokomo YR4-M2 after having a belt destroyed by a small stone. The track that I race on is very clean, but you know Murphy's Law.
#1739
I dont kno about rocks getting into the belt/diff. but i have yet to deal with that problem. i used to have a FT TC3 and drove it on asphalt (bashing) allll the time. never felt bad or worried about anything. but my 414M2 is a different story. i dont (bash) with it all. It's totally a track car...
so i guess i want a "regular" car like a TC3 again just to bash. i dont wanna mess up my 414M2...
good to hear u finished ur car deacon. but why do u have to wait 4 months to run it? anyway, peaches.
so i guess i want a "regular" car like a TC3 again just to bash. i dont wanna mess up my 414M2...
good to hear u finished ur car deacon. but why do u have to wait 4 months to run it? anyway, peaches.
#1740
hm..... maybe i should go on e-bay to sell off my car and get a brand new M2.......blue is catching my attention .....
4 months hm ......... winter ??
4 months hm ......... winter ??