Tekin RS ESC sensored
Tech Master
Randy/Mikky,
It looks like the late thread is to have a higher start rpm as around (4000 to 5000), will this be more suitable for a indoor small-mid size track?(less than 100ft long straight)? Or generally this is now a more 'overall' usable starting points?
And in terms of controlling the temp, what changes of setting is most sensitive to increase the motor temp? (hopefully this is not too theoretical a question to ask) Will it be wise to use Schreff's snowbird setting (reversing the turbo and timing boost) as a mean to control heat? Circuit I run at is somewhat large(120ft+) and has semi-technical infield.
Thanks in advance
It looks like the late thread is to have a higher start rpm as around (4000 to 5000), will this be more suitable for a indoor small-mid size track?(less than 100ft long straight)? Or generally this is now a more 'overall' usable starting points?
And in terms of controlling the temp, what changes of setting is most sensitive to increase the motor temp? (hopefully this is not too theoretical a question to ask) Will it be wise to use Schreff's snowbird setting (reversing the turbo and timing boost) as a mean to control heat? Circuit I run at is somewhat large(120ft+) and has semi-technical infield.
Thanks in advance
I tried also with a lower start RPM but on the last layout this field better.
The most I like the Turbo ad the start.
On a larger track this probably will not be the setup to go.
Than I will let the Turbo only come in ad the straight for extra top speed.
I will use than a start RPM of 4000. This way I can gear a bit heavier than with a start RPM of 3000 or even lower.
Can anyone tell me what sort of RPM a 10.5 and a 13.5 motor are reaching at the top end, I know it's a bit dependant on gearing etc but a rough idea would be fine. The figure without turbo etc.
I do remember 27t's used to reach 25k off load but would get nowhere near that on track.
I'm interested to know as I want to better understand the upper rpm limit for the timing.
Thanks
Skiddins
I do remember 27t's used to reach 25k off load but would get nowhere near that on track.
I'm interested to know as I want to better understand the upper rpm limit for the timing.
Thanks
Skiddins
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Lost in the Dead Space between my Ears Somewhere around Wamego, KS (OZ Land)
Posts: 3,519
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
I am having a clogging problem I think. The motor sometimes will not spin and make terrible noises, I seen it in the 7.5 motor, not bad, but I put in a 10.5 and its terrible, brand new 10.5 I ran for 6mins, I cant figure it out. The 7.5 only did it with the RS Pro, not the GTB, so I am pretty sure its in the esc.
Tech Champion
Have you tried a different sensor wire? Often that is the culprit.
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Lost in the Dead Space between my Ears Somewhere around Wamego, KS (OZ Land)
Posts: 3,519
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
No I havent, but its new, came with the new motor, and the other motor doesnt do it when its hooked up to a GTB just the RS Pro.
But I do have it looped and zip tied to the motor wires, is that something that has to be seperated away from the motor wires????
But I do have it looped and zip tied to the motor wires, is that something that has to be seperated away from the motor wires????
Tech Lord
iTrader: (103)
when using the rs and it it cogs check it by rolling the motor and watch the last three led's if the flicker you good and it may be something else
it makes sense that too close proximity could cause interference. you should try seperating the sensor from the motor wires and let us know if it makes a difference.
a quick check could be to see if a slow ramp up of throttle (minimizing motor current) avoids the problem,
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
I am having a clogging problem I think. The motor sometimes will not spin and make terrible noises, I seen it in the 7.5 motor, not bad, but I put in a 10.5 and its terrible, brand new 10.5 I ran for 6mins, I cant figure it out. The 7.5 only did it with the RS Pro, not the GTB, so I am pretty sure its in the esc.
I find it a good thing to check present settings after I've modified any of the parameters as 203 seems to slip and slide if not treated woth kidd gloves.
Don't get me wrong here, Tekin RS Pro is the best piece of equipment in the world for tunability. I run one in a 13.5 sedan/rocket and one in a WGT ballistic missile !!
Jacko
I am having a clogging problem I think. The motor sometimes will not spin and make terrible noises, I seen it in the 7.5 motor, not bad, but I put in a 10.5 and its terrible, brand new 10.5 I ran for 6mins, I cant figure it out. The 7.5 only did it with the RS Pro, not the GTB, so I am pretty sure its in the esc.
First things to try are reducing the motor timing and then reducing the boost & turbo timing. I turn the turbo off when I'm having problems just to rule it out first.
This is all assuming that you try the normal stuff. Sensor wire, check that the sensors are working, double check that your not overgeared.
Another thing to try is reverting back to 198 and then reloading 203. Some times I've had issues with the firmware update.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (159)
I am having a clogging problem I think. The motor sometimes will not spin and make terrible noises, I seen it in the 7.5 motor, not bad, but I put in a 10.5 and its terrible, brand new 10.5 I ran for 6mins, I cant figure it out. The 7.5 only did it with the RS Pro, not the GTB, so I am pretty sure its in the esc.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (2)
Help please
Fellas i jus got a rs an i have a fellow racer put the new software on it....ran great for the first day...no over heating..im running a novak 17.5.....now when i turn on the car the no.1-3-5 lights just blink an nothin works......help fellow racers?????
Tech Regular
iTrader: (2)
i had that same problem before mine went out.....i think somethin is wack in the softwear because the guy u loaded mine his rs went out also!!!! Tekin Step up please???
Tech Champion
Yeah a new harness shouldn't have a problem but it probably still should be checked. We had a similar issue here locally with one of our racer's RS. On the track it would have a problem after a few minutes...on the bench sometimes it would and sometimes it wouldn't. The harness looked fine and since it worked sometimes initially it was ruled out as a problem. When we couldn't find anything else that could be the cause we swapped the wire and never had a problem since. As it turns out one of the wires had a break in it that would usually make contact but under heavy vibration it would lose contact and fail.
Tech Champion
Have you tried re-calibrating the RS and rebinding your receiver?
If you're cogging you need to post what your settings are. If you're running a 10.5 or any motor for that matter with too much timing too soon this is the result. We need to no your 203 setup, what motor, what amount of motor timing, what car?
Led's 1 3 5 are either a thermal(doubtful since you're just now trying to turn it on again) or Low Voltage cut off.
Make sure you're hooked up to a charged pack, and that your VC setting is set correctly.
Led's 1 3 5 are either a thermal(doubtful since you're just now trying to turn it on again) or Low Voltage cut off.
Make sure you're hooked up to a charged pack, and that your VC setting is set correctly.