Tekin RS ESC sensored
01-03-2010, 07:25 PM
#9856
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
Actually turbo is completely seperate from boost and has nothing to do with rpm. Turbo can actually be engaged and advance the timing before boost with a 0 delay. The Hotwire was not suppose to go below .3sec in the release version..... you know what happens when you hurry.
With turbo delay at 0sec and the ramp rate at 3x the unit could add significant timing advance before the motor is turning fast enough to take it.
In most applications we do not think Turbo is really needed. Turbo really is meant for very short uses and only when the motor is fully spooled out and you have room to squeeze just a little more. If you had NOS in your car you would not drive around holding the button
Tekin Prez
With turbo delay at 0sec and the ramp rate at 3x the unit could add significant timing advance before the motor is turning fast enough to take it.
In most applications we do not think Turbo is really needed. Turbo really is meant for very short uses and only when the motor is fully spooled out and you have room to squeeze just a little more. If you had NOS in your car you would not drive around holding the button
Tekin Prez
01-03-2010, 07:27 PM
#9858
01-03-2010, 07:34 PM
#9861
Picture this:
You set turbo to 20 degrees with .0 delay and the fastest ramp rate. With boost you have your end rpm as 20000 with 40 degrees and "0" rpm for you start rpm. If you are at 10000 rpm and hold full throttle the turbo will add in addition to the 20 degrees of boost at 10000 rpm.
01-03-2010, 07:35 PM
#9863
Turbo when set with a 0.0 delay will be instantly applied when full throttle is hit. Which is why we don't reccomend this setup.
Turbo IS NOT affected by RPM.
Turbo IS NOT affected by RPM.
01-03-2010, 07:37 PM
#9865
FIrst day results were mixed. Car was stupid fast using the follwoing set up:
Drag Brake - 10
Brake Strength - 100
Throttle pofile - 5
Boost - 50
Turbo - 10
Turbo delay - .2
Ramp - 3
Start rpm - 1437
End rpm - 4000
Motor timing - middle position on a Duo 1 Trinity
Roll out was 64.3mm - 42 tire with 78/38 Track is 66' x 36' and pretty open. 8.5 second fast lap time.
Easily .3 sec per lap faster than I have been able to do before but there is a problem. First off, I tested a few different settings and gear ratios early in the day and checked the temp after about 2 minutes each time. Started the morning off with around 140* which I thought would be too hot so I geared down each time until I got to the above roll out. Temp was actually going up each time I went down a tooth but I ran out of practice time and had to run this gearing in the first qualifier.
At the 7 minute mark, the car just stopped and then started to smoke.
Yep, burnt Drew Ellis's On Road Nat's motor to the ground. Later in the day I pulled the battery out only to find that the three motor wires that run under the pack, (Yes I run a t-bar with the pack going over the top) had melted a groove in the 1s plastic hard case. When I pulled the car off the track after finding the motor smoking I noticed that every piece of metal in the rear pod including the screws that hold on the top plate were blisteringly hot.
Pulled out the motor and replaced it with a Hacker 13.5 that I had run before and everything went back to normal except for the fact that it took almost 4700mah to recharge the pack after the melt down. Ran the last qualifier finding out that the Hacker needs more boost to be as fast as the Duo.
Question is, was it the motor that caused the melt down or esc set up or gearing? (Drew says Tekin owes him a new motor.)
It was odd that the temp kept going up as I geared down, but one guy at the track says that brushless can get hot if they are under geared just as easily as being over geared. Is this correct?
All I know is that the new software is seriously faster than the old and I will have fun trying to find the sweet spot for the new motor than I'm ordering tomorrow morning. (sorry Drew)
And to top off the day, my old Turbo 30 shot craps and fried my receiver pack right before the main.
Not a good day.
Any feedback would be appreciated as to what could be the cause for the melting motor.
Drag Brake - 10
Brake Strength - 100
Throttle pofile - 5
Boost - 50
Turbo - 10
Turbo delay - .2
Ramp - 3
Start rpm - 1437
End rpm - 4000
Motor timing - middle position on a Duo 1 Trinity
Roll out was 64.3mm - 42 tire with 78/38 Track is 66' x 36' and pretty open. 8.5 second fast lap time.
Easily .3 sec per lap faster than I have been able to do before but there is a problem. First off, I tested a few different settings and gear ratios early in the day and checked the temp after about 2 minutes each time. Started the morning off with around 140* which I thought would be too hot so I geared down each time until I got to the above roll out. Temp was actually going up each time I went down a tooth but I ran out of practice time and had to run this gearing in the first qualifier.
At the 7 minute mark, the car just stopped and then started to smoke.
Yep, burnt Drew Ellis's On Road Nat's motor to the ground. Later in the day I pulled the battery out only to find that the three motor wires that run under the pack, (Yes I run a t-bar with the pack going over the top) had melted a groove in the 1s plastic hard case. When I pulled the car off the track after finding the motor smoking I noticed that every piece of metal in the rear pod including the screws that hold on the top plate were blisteringly hot.Pulled out the motor and replaced it with a Hacker 13.5 that I had run before and everything went back to normal except for the fact that it took almost 4700mah to recharge the pack after the melt down. Ran the last qualifier finding out that the Hacker needs more boost to be as fast as the Duo.
Question is, was it the motor that caused the melt down or esc set up or gearing? (Drew says Tekin owes him a new motor.)
It was odd that the temp kept going up as I geared down, but one guy at the track says that brushless can get hot if they are under geared just as easily as being over geared. Is this correct?All I know is that the new software is seriously faster than the old and I will have fun trying to find the sweet spot for the new motor than I'm ordering tomorrow morning. (sorry Drew)
And to top off the day, my old Turbo 30 shot craps and fried my receiver pack right before the main.
Not a good day.Any feedback would be appreciated as to what could be the cause for the melting motor.
01-03-2010, 07:45 PM
#9868
FIrst day results were mixed. Car was stupid fast using the follwoing set up:
Drag Brake - 10
Brake Strength - 100
Throttle pofile - 5
Boost - 50
Turbo - 10
Turbo delay - .2
Ramp - 3
Start rpm - 1437
End rpm - 4000
Motor timing - middle position on a Duo 1 Trinity
Roll out was 64.3mm - 42 tire with 78/38 Track is 66' x 36' and pretty open. 8.5 second fast lap time.
Easily .3 sec per lap faster than I have been able to do before but there is a problem. First off, I tested a few different settings and gear ratios early in the day and checked the temp after about 2 minutes each time. Started the morning off with around 140* which I thought would be too hot so I geared down each time until I got to the above roll out. Temp was actually going up each time I went down a tooth but I ran out of practice time and had to run this gearing in the first qualifier.
At the 7 minute mark, the car just stopped and then started to smoke. Yep, burnt Drew Ellis's On Road Nat's motor to the ground. Later in the day I pulled the battery out only to find that the three motor wires that run under the pack, (Yes I run a t-bar with the pack going over the top) had melted a groove in the 1s plastic hard case. When I pulled the car off the track after finding the motor smoking I noticed that every piece of metal in the rear pod including the screws that hold on the top plate were blisteringly hot.
Pulled out the motor and replaced it with a Hacker 13.5 that I had run before and everything went back to normal except for the fact that it took almost 4700mah to recharge the pack after the melt down. Ran the last qualifier finding out that the Hacker needs more boost to be as fast as the Duo.
Question is, was it the motor that caused the melt down or esc set up or gearing? (Drew says Tekin owes him a new motor.) It was odd that the temp kept going up as I geared down, but one guy at the track says that brushless can get hot if they are under geared just as easily as being over geared. Is this correct?
All I know is that the new software is seriously faster than the old and I will have fun trying to find the sweet spot for the new motor than I'm ordering tomorrow morning. (sorry Drew)
And to top off the day, my old Turbo 30 shot craps and fried my receiver pack right before the main. Not a good day.
Any feedback would be appreciated as to what could be the cause for the melting motor.
Drag Brake - 10
Brake Strength - 100
Throttle pofile - 5
Boost - 50
Turbo - 10
Turbo delay - .2
Ramp - 3
Start rpm - 1437
End rpm - 4000
Motor timing - middle position on a Duo 1 Trinity
Roll out was 64.3mm - 42 tire with 78/38 Track is 66' x 36' and pretty open. 8.5 second fast lap time.
Easily .3 sec per lap faster than I have been able to do before but there is a problem. First off, I tested a few different settings and gear ratios early in the day and checked the temp after about 2 minutes each time. Started the morning off with around 140* which I thought would be too hot so I geared down each time until I got to the above roll out. Temp was actually going up each time I went down a tooth but I ran out of practice time and had to run this gearing in the first qualifier.
At the 7 minute mark, the car just stopped and then started to smoke.
Yep, burnt Drew Ellis's On Road Nat's motor to the ground. Later in the day I pulled the battery out only to find that the three motor wires that run under the pack, (Yes I run a t-bar with the pack going over the top) had melted a groove in the 1s plastic hard case. When I pulled the car off the track after finding the motor smoking I noticed that every piece of metal in the rear pod including the screws that hold on the top plate were blisteringly hot.Pulled out the motor and replaced it with a Hacker 13.5 that I had run before and everything went back to normal except for the fact that it took almost 4700mah to recharge the pack after the melt down. Ran the last qualifier finding out that the Hacker needs more boost to be as fast as the Duo.
Question is, was it the motor that caused the melt down or esc set up or gearing? (Drew says Tekin owes him a new motor.)
It was odd that the temp kept going up as I geared down, but one guy at the track says that brushless can get hot if they are under geared just as easily as being over geared. Is this correct?All I know is that the new software is seriously faster than the old and I will have fun trying to find the sweet spot for the new motor than I'm ordering tomorrow morning. (sorry Drew)
And to top off the day, my old Turbo 30 shot craps and fried my receiver pack right before the main.
Not a good day.Any feedback would be appreciated as to what could be the cause for the melting motor.
01-03-2010, 07:50 PM
#9869
SteveL says:
Drag Brake - 10
Brake Strength - 100
Throttle pofile - 5
Boost - 50
Turbo - 10
Turbo delay - .2
Ramp - 3
Start rpm - 1437
End rpm - 4000
Motor timing - middle position on a Duo 1 Trinity
Krio says:
You were WAY overtimed at mid/low rpm. With the middle whole on the duo, 50 degrees of boost @ 4k rpm, and 10 turbo with the fastest ramp up you were easily pulling 70+ degrees of timing at HALF speed assuming 1s. For your small track you should drop your boost to 40, put the end rpm closer to 10k, and probably turn the motor to the lowest timing hole with no turbo. Then gear back up now that your motor is running icy cold.
Drag Brake - 10
Brake Strength - 100
Throttle pofile - 5
Boost - 50
Turbo - 10
Turbo delay - .2
Ramp - 3
Start rpm - 1437
End rpm - 4000
Motor timing - middle position on a Duo 1 Trinity
Krio says:
You were WAY overtimed at mid/low rpm. With the middle whole on the duo, 50 degrees of boost @ 4k rpm, and 10 turbo with the fastest ramp up you were easily pulling 70+ degrees of timing at HALF speed assuming 1s. For your small track you should drop your boost to 40, put the end rpm closer to 10k, and probably turn the motor to the lowest timing hole with no turbo. Then gear back up now that your motor is running icy cold.
01-03-2010, 07:50 PM
#9870
I also don't think this is useful in of itself, but I'd love to find out why this happens.To answer the impending question of "what settings do this?", the RPM values are so sensitive that they will be different based on the endbell timing of any given motor, even within the same family of motors. But the basic concept is this: Set your Timing Boost low RPM value just barely out of reach for your motor, just a few thousand RPM above where the motor would naturally top out (from the effects of it's endbell timing) so that Timing Boost won't occur. Then set your turbo delay to 2.0 full seconds, a nice big value so that you can effectively perceive the difference between full RPM (from endbell timing) and the ramp up of the Turbo Boost.
