GasGod

iTrader: (4)

Sucess--there was 1copy of a file hidden on my HD-don't know how it got there-
thnx.

cwoods34

iTrader: (10)

Just a couple of questions before I get the new software ready and in my car....

I ran 13.5 rubber yesterday with my '007. I was using the RS, Novak Ballistic (stock 30* timing), and a Thunderpower LiPo. I believe my FDR was 5.95 the last time I checked, and the track is big, but I don't have exact specs (R/CAR at the Indy Fairgrounds for those of you in central Indy). After a nerve-wracking 5-minute main the motor temp was around 165* F.

My first question is, after I install the new software and update my ESC will it retain the settings I have right now and do "default" values for the new settings I can play with (RPM and ramp values), or will I have to start on my Tekin setup from scratch? Basically I want to know if I should write my current setup down or if after the update I can run it the way it was yesterday without making any changes.

Also, will the car be any faster after just an update, or will it not change until I actually adjust some of the new settings?

I TQ'd each round and took 1st for the main, so I really don't want to change anything at the moment if I don't have to although I should've turned the turbo down just a bit!

Sorry if these questions have been asked recently, I've been trying to keep up with the thread but I might've missed something! Thanks Tekin!

tallyrc

iTrader: (12)

write it down, your getting new firmware too.. all will be new i think.. the good news though is that if yu don't like the 203, you can reload the 200 with a click.. you wont go back though

Cammer

iTrader: (3)

I am having a heck of a time with my Novak booster in my WGT. With my Thunder Power battery it shuts down a few times a race. With my SMC it shuts down almost every lap. Is there a way to disable the low voltage cutoff, has anybody tried a cap inline with the booster to take out the dips.

The car rocks with the new software though, .5 per lap and punch that I never saw before.

wallyedmonds

my boost is from TQ cells and i have not had a problem with it i love the new 203 works good

Clint161

iTrader: (1)

I see racers are puting 0.0 for the Turbo Boost delay.

Does this mean the Turbo kicks in exactly when you are at full throttle..... every time you hit full throttle? No matter what RPM.
or
Does it mean Turbo kicks in at full throttle after you reach the high RPM of your Timming Boost setting?

g12314

iTrader: (6)

Got back into town Saturday night, went to the track today to test the new SW in 17.5. Dropped my lap times 0.3 seconds after finding a good ESC/FDR setup for the X11 17.5 motor.

Witnessed a 13.5 car with the new SW, and all I can say is WOW.

Thank you Tekin for supporting us!

Jimmy

stiltskin

iTrader: (103)

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vazzo

iTrader: (101)

Hi, Is the software on the website v203 or Vegas v200?

Thanks
Adrian

20 SMOKE

iTrader: (103)

http://www.teamtekin.com/hotwire.html

tallyrc

iTrader: (12)

if your using a real high end rpm for the boost like i am, not much point in delaying the additional turbo.. frankly with my current setup, i may not use turbo at all since we can now go to 50 on the boost!!!!

AreCee

iTrader: (1)

First of all, the Novak Booster has a LVC built in that you can't turn off. All it does is interupts power to the RX. Second, the RS can be run with the switch off and then you bypass the Tekin LVC which monitors the voltage to the motor.

Tekin Prez

Actually turbo is completely seperate from boost and has nothing to do with rpm. Turbo can actually be engaged and advance the timing before boost with a 0 delay. The Hotwire was not suppose to go below .3sec in the release version..... you know what happens when you hurry.

With turbo delay at 0sec and the ramp rate at 3x the unit could add significant timing advance before the motor is turning fast enough to take it.

In most applications we do not think Turbo is really needed. Turbo really is meant for very short uses and only when the motor is fully spooled out and you have room to squeeze just a little more. If you had NOS in your car you would not drive around holding the button

Tekin Prez

SteveL

iTrader: (23)

FIrst day results were mixed. Car was stupid fast using the follwoing set up:

Drag Brake - 10
Brake Strength - 100
Throttle pofile - 5
Boost - 50
Turbo - 10
Turbo delay - .2
Ramp - 3
Start rpm - 1437
End rpm - 4000
Motor timing - middle position on a Duo 1 Trinity

Roll out was 64.3mm - 42 tire with 78/38 Track is 66' x 36' and pretty open. 8.5 second fast lap time.

Easily .3 sec per lap faster than I have been able to do before but there is a problem. First off, I tested a few different settings and gear ratios early in the day and checked the temp after about 2 minutes each time. Started the morning off with around 140* which I thought would be too hot so I geared down each time until I got to the above roll out. Temp was actually going up each time I went down a tooth but I ran out of practice time and had to run this gearing in the first qualifier.

At the 7 minute mark, the car just stopped and then started to smoke. Yep, burnt Drew Ellis's On Road Nat's motor to the ground. Later in the day I pulled the battery out only to find that the three motor wires that run under the pack, (Yes I run a t-bar with the pack going over the top) had melted a groove in the 1s plastic hard case. When I pulled the car off the track after finding the motor smoking I noticed that every piece of metal in the rear pod including the screws that hold on the top plate were blisteringly hot.

Pulled out the motor and replaced it with a Hacker 13.5 that I had run before and everything went back to normal except for the fact that it took almost 4700mah to recharge the pack after the melt down. Ran the last qualifier finding out that the Hacker needs more boost to be as fast as the Duo.

Question is, was it the motor that caused the melt down or esc set up or gearing? (Drew says Tekin owes him a new motor.) It was odd that the temp kept going up as I geared down, but one guy at the track says that brushless can get hot if they are under geared just as easily as being over geared. Is this correct?

All I know is that the new software is seriously faster than the old and I will have fun trying to find the sweet spot for the new motor than I'm ordering tomorrow morning. (sorry Drew)

And to top off the day, my old Turbo 30 shot craps and fried my receiver pack right before the main. Not a good day.

Any feedback would be appreciated as to what could be the cause for the melting motor.

Mark506

iTrader: (42)

For you foam guys, prefer stock, how many teeth did most of you drop? On a tight track about 65X30, most us dropped around 7-9 teeth. Which change my original gearing of 34/84, to 26/84, and played around from there. But even with many different gearing changes, we couldn't find a good spot, with a good temp range. (Running the around 165)

With Tire Dia. 56.7, IR 1.71, and 26/84, I was rolling out around 1.25.