Tekin RS ESC sensored
#5596
If the wire is suspect i would actually check it with a meter. Just in case. You wouldn't want to waste two weeks to find you still have a problem when Tekin sends back all your hardware (motor/esc or both). Wires are annoying and lose continuity easily. Besides being a low cost item I don't think they would have any serious QC.
#5597
I will be in attendance at the IIC. No, you don't need your hotwire. I've got you covered.
The rotors do fit any of our sensored Redline motors.
If you're having ANY cogging you've got one of two problems: You have a sensor issue, or you have poor wiring to your motor, or both.
The RS has a sensor checker function, simply install a motor to the sensor harness, rotate the motor slowly by hand and watch the last 3 led's on the RS for cycling on/off dimmly. If you don't see this THIS is the problem. Try a different motor, sensor harness,etc.
If you have your motor wired wrong ie; A to A , B to B, C to C it will cause sensor issues.
Make sure your soldering on the speedo and motor is good and clean.
The squealing noise is the speedo driving your motor in sensorless mode.
The rotors do fit any of our sensored Redline motors.
If you're having ANY cogging you've got one of two problems: You have a sensor issue, or you have poor wiring to your motor, or both.
The RS has a sensor checker function, simply install a motor to the sensor harness, rotate the motor slowly by hand and watch the last 3 led's on the RS for cycling on/off dimmly. If you don't see this THIS is the problem. Try a different motor, sensor harness,etc.
If you have your motor wired wrong ie; A to A , B to B, C to C it will cause sensor issues.
Make sure your soldering on the speedo and motor is good and clean.
The squealing noise is the speedo driving your motor in sensorless mode.
#5598
Tech Master
iTrader: (39)
I will be in attendance at the IIC. No, you don't need your hotwire. I've got you covered.
The rotors do fit any of our sensored Redline motors.
If you're having ANY cogging you've got one of two problems: You have a sensor issue, or you have poor wiring to your motor, or both.
The RS has a sensor checker function, simply install a motor to the sensor harness, rotate the motor slowly by hand and watch the last 3 led's on the RS for cycling on/off dimmly. If you don't see this THIS is the problem. Try a different motor, sensor harness,etc.
If you have your motor wired wrong ie; A to A , B to B, C to C it will cause sensor issues.
Make sure your soldering on the speedo and motor is good and clean.
The squealing noise is the speedo driving your motor in sensorless mode.
The rotors do fit any of our sensored Redline motors.
If you're having ANY cogging you've got one of two problems: You have a sensor issue, or you have poor wiring to your motor, or both.
The RS has a sensor checker function, simply install a motor to the sensor harness, rotate the motor slowly by hand and watch the last 3 led's on the RS for cycling on/off dimmly. If you don't see this THIS is the problem. Try a different motor, sensor harness,etc.
If you have your motor wired wrong ie; A to A , B to B, C to C it will cause sensor issues.
Make sure your soldering on the speedo and motor is good and clean.
The squealing noise is the speedo driving your motor in sensorless mode.
#5599
Then take a new sensor wire and connect it
then manual turn the wheels of your car with the drive train connected
When you turn the wheels you should see some movement of lights on the speedi
This is covered in the manual
#5600
you need to remove teh motor and install the new or spare motor and connect the sensor lead.
The when you switch on the esc you can just turn the motor by hand and you will see the 3 led's on the rhs light up dimly and in sequence.
If any of these led's dont light up then the motor sensor is faulty or damaged.
Not sure if just the sensors are available loose.
Not sure if the surface mount hall sensors can be sourced from electronic supplies and replaced.
The when you switch on the esc you can just turn the motor by hand and you will see the 3 led's on the rhs light up dimly and in sequence.
If any of these led's dont light up then the motor sensor is faulty or damaged.
Not sure if just the sensors are available loose.
Not sure if the surface mount hall sensors can be sourced from electronic supplies and replaced.
#5601
Can any of you guys explain brushless esc AND motor timing...and how they both relate to gearing?
...or does anyone have a link handy that explains all this?
Feel like I'm sort of stumbling around, making changes to gearing/timing without a thorough understanding of it all...
Thanks for any help.
...or does anyone have a link handy that explains all this?
Feel like I'm sort of stumbling around, making changes to gearing/timing without a thorough understanding of it all...
Thanks for any help.
#5602
look at your own home thread under setup tips
but basically, more timing equals more rpm and heat, so lots of timing smaller pinion,
low timing equals more pull, less heat, so run a bigger gear, now go forth and fine that magic combo
but basically, more timing equals more rpm and heat, so lots of timing smaller pinion,
low timing equals more pull, less heat, so run a bigger gear, now go forth and fine that magic combo
#5603
#5604
The motor does NOT need to be soldered to the speedo. You can check them with JUST the sensor harness, quick and easy.
In general more timing is more rpm, less torque.
Less timing is more torque, less rpm.
In general more timing is more rpm, less torque.
Less timing is more torque, less rpm.
#5606
#5607
If you're doing it with the motor wires unhooked, you must cycle the on/off switch and not hit the throttle.
#5608
hotwire
Randy where can I download 189 194 198 from the Tekin website
#5609
#5610
hotwire
thanks