lidebt2

iTrader: (21)

I agree.

zharn

When using a 4.5t motor, will you notice any benefit with the new 200 firmware in dual mode?

and... in sensored mode the esc gets 6 bars, but in dual mode its nice and cool (2 or 3). Ive got extra caps and a fan blowing the exposed posts.
I want the try the boost and turbo features in mod, but the esc just gets way too hot. Why does sensored mode run hot and dual mode run cool?

Thanks for you help.

hint hint, f1 style launch control would be nice. lrp sxx has it from reading the manual.

cyanyde

Hi guys. Just took delivery of a spanking new RS Pro yesterday thinking I'm gonna kick dust up the marshalls faces on the straights with the turbo this weekend, only to realise that its still not out yet in the latest software available!!... Oh well..

About the brakes issue I've been reading, does it make sense to go with a larger rotor if the rules allow? It should help right?

mikky32

Some motors have problems with the brakes but I heard that an other driver has great breaking with the Speedpassion motor. I'm going to look if it comes because I shimmed it different.
With my other motors I have great breaking.
All my other club members have also a good breaking.

The Turbo will not work with the Mod motors.
You also don't need it.

If you want to accelerate like the SXX and LRP TC speedo's, Just set your throttle profile on 5.
You have than every corner that power.
I hath a LRP TC. I used it once and the power was so much that I didn't hath advantage wit it. When you are in the back you will close a gap to the others but the change that you will win places is small because as soon you reach a corner, you lose your advantage and it becomes a dis advantage.
And after the start, you lose your acceleration power.

razzor

i tried shimming the motors for different air gaps for the sensor and no difference to brake performance.

tc3team

Without wanting to start a war on this discussion about brakes, my own thoughts on this are as follows and may be exaggerated: (and yes my theory is not always right)...

If a motor is geared for excessive speed, you only need a few laps of taking corners with the wrong approach to try and catch up your opposition, couple this up with late braking... and you are heating the motor up more and switching the FETS on and off more frequently with your mind on the race and trying to catch someone up.

You're giving the motor more load with a lower gear ratio, hence the heat, and maybe jamming the throttle in the process to get it up to speed, the motor is also taking longer to get to full speed.

Excessive heat for any motor, or ESC is not good, it is just wasted energy.

I would rather gear a "little" more lenient on speed and know I am taking the corners better, (tight to the apex) and heating things up less with less load on the motor. If i'm slightly slower down the straight, i've got less speed to kill for the corner.

Of course though, if you have the handling set well and you are dialled for some killer laps, you need the speed!

If your car is pushing and you're still working on the setup, a little less speed probably wont hurt too much and you'll have a slower car for the corner, which is useful if your car is not on par with the handling you need.

The fastest way of racing is usually by having a smooth throttle finger - repsect the power you have. (More so with faster motors)....

Or you play around with the throttle profile or transmitter settings if your thumb can't behave itself

However, there are lots of aspects to consider, is the track technical, or is it flowing?

If it's flowing, you probably wont be using the brakes as much, so an aggressive brake may be something to consider and get away with.

If its technical and not partically big, you may want to set the car up with strong brakes for a lunge down the inside of someone coming up to a sharp corner. And thats when you need a tried and tested ESC/Motor/gear ratio setup/combination for its optimal braking.

For me, RS Pro braking with a redline motor is good, I have the security of it being tried and tested.

I dont see the need to hybrid an esc and motor, others do and its just another thing to put into the equation of when gearing and seeing how well the brakes work...

***A further thought on braking*** Even the grip level could determine the braking on any given esc/motor.

Wheel spin is popular on a low grip track, as is locking the brakes. There simply is no adhesion to the track to let the tyres bite the track.

Dusty parking lots, tree sap, etc etc are all evil to a cars grip and overall handling. Even the best setup car is no good on an ice hockey pitch for example, unless you know how to drift!

I think this is another part of the reason why I like high bite tracks. Grip is there, so is the braking - It's a certainty.

razzor

tc3 that is true but what i have experienced with the 199 software is the motors are not heating up as much so is not a factor.
Hottest my motor has gotten is 60 deg/c and that was overgeared so i geared down to benefit from the turbo and it wouldnt get hotter than 55 deg/c
If i run 198 the motor temps go up to 65 and i have to gear up at least 6 teeth and lose the bottom end rip that you get with the 199.
i am driving around the brake issue as it is only a hassle on the hairpin at the end of the main straight but i have to be conservative and cautious not to overrun the corner. If i had the brakes i could actually gain here and attack cars in front by getting on the brakes later and coming in on the apex as they run a bit wider.
at slower speeds the brakes are perfect just not from full speed.

I am racing the regional champs on Sunday and will try a few different things as well as go back to 198 or older versions.
will give more feedback then.

tc3team

If the laptimes are good, that can only be a good thing Razzor, good times!

Quante

iTrader: (6)

Has anyone had any probs burning an RS when using too much timing?? Or I guess that can be the only thing that could've burnt mine past weekend.

I drive 1/12th 4cell and was driving a GM EVO3 9.5 with a new rotor (12.5mm) in it. I had the motor on std timing and had the advanced timing set on about 2/3rds of what can be set (I think 20).
Running free the motor had an incredible amount of revs, on track it wasnt that impressive. I raced the same setup, gearing on this EVO3 with my R1 for over a year without any heat probs (3-4 leds showing).
The RS ran fine for about 20 packs, had good rip on another 9.5 motor.
The EVO3 was working fine in my PRO10 on a 7.4Lipo using a R1 pro.

Ran 3 batteries with the evo3 and the RS, first 2 runs only 4 leds showing heat. 3rd run the car stalls on the straight, all LEDs blinking and I measured 100degr.C . But it smelled burnt.
Let it cool, now it only says wrong motortype connected.
Personally I think its strange the Temp protection kicks in when the ESC has prolly already received deadly heat.

I asked a repair number at Tekin and I'm waiting for it. I know their service is top notch and I kinda hope they offer a swap action (with extra money of course).

But I dont want this prob to happen again, so would it be possible to destrao the ESC when setting too much timing (which I even doubt I did).

khaledome

iTrader: (2)

guys, about the brakes issue,
i just have too much brake on the rs pro
it is amazing,
i am using lrp x11 3t and lrp x12 4t motors, both of them with rs pro has amazing brakes, even i get down my brake epa on the transmittter to %30, this way i can control the brakes. i am using hybrid mod,
in our local track one of my friends complained about the brakes with rs pro, and we switched his rs pro to sensored only, than he also had very good brake.

khaledome

iTrader: (2)

another thing :
in the last race, a friend with rs pro, experience a very weird problem,
only with a sp 4.5t motor, when the car spins and the tires runs a little backwards if you push on the throttle the car starts to go backwards.... then you need to brake again and stop the car and then it go forwards.
we double checked everything on the hotwire nothing wrong.
with another motor we don't have this problem but this motor has no problem with any other esc.
we tried it sensored mode and hybrid mode nothing changed.
but we can solve the issue with removing the sensor cable...
what do you think?

btw we had our 4th leg of nationals on 8-9 th august, come on guys i really like to try the 200 software in these.... pleasee.

mikky32

When you have a lot of rpm's when you hold the car up and on the track it's all gone. You can have used to much Total timing.
The stock motors like the 13,5 17,5 and 21,5 can handle better the timing.
I use now with the 10,5 lipo not as many timing any more as I did with my 10,5 on 5 cell.
Not only because the Turbo but also because of the temps.
I notes that the Lipo has enough power to compensate the lower timing and the motor can be geared a bit heavier.
Also is the 10,5 on lipo fast enough.
The 9,5 motor is better of with a lower timing boost.
Especially the GM motors. They go better with a lower timing and some heavier gearing.

mikky32

You must lower your brake power on the Speedo.
This works better.

Clean the sensor cable connections and clean the motor.
There can be dust on the sensors and this can cause the problem.

hound_dogs_01

iTrader: (16)

Mikky when you say gear heavier or lighter i tend to get confused...

which one is gearing high/low?

sorry just wondering

Alex

mikky32

heavier you gear it with a bigger motor pinion and a smaller spur gear.
Lighter is just the way around.
When you gear it lighter, the motor needs more rounds to make to reach the same distance.
This better?