lifeguy

Not sure if this has been asked in the 2000+ posts on this topic!

I have a TC5, running Foam, 10.5

What are the best settings on the 2.89 software?

I am using a novak 10.5

Should I set timing on the motor to zero, or should I use some mechanical timing, I really needs some vital information on this.
(complete setup if possible)

Thanks
Grant

Grenade10

iTrader: (40)

Nice Job Service Department - AKA - Ty & Sherri - New rotors in four & 1/2 days (as it was delivered before noon) with 2 of those days over the weekend, and a third day as a holiday for the delivery service!!! (Actually should be 4 days, as I did not get it ordered until late afternoon)


THANKS!!!!

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

Here's a great setup for 10.5 and 13.5 Racing. This is Team driver Jason Moberly's RS setup!

lifeguy

Thanks Randy, would I run any timing in the Novak Motor???

Also what about a single cell Lipo with a 13.5 in a 1/12 scale??

Thanks
Grant

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

Grant,

Yeah run the novak fully timed.

Single cell is still new as far as setups go but it would be a good place to start.

tomdav

iTrader: (44)

I just purshased my second RS pro and the lipo cutoff was not preset from the factory. As Stocker said you can set it on the speedo itself for 2 or 3 cell setups. The hotwire allows custom cutoffs. Instead of 6.0v for two cells I like to bump it up to 6.6 just for giggles.

tellan

[QUOTE=Randy_Pike;5319767]Here's a great setup for 10.5 and 13.5 Racing. This is Team driver Jason Moberly's RS setup

Looking at the settings why does Jason have reverse set 100 when he is running FW/BL ??????

bviktor

[QUOTE=tellan;5322015]Because the value of the reverse strength doesn't matter, when he is running forward only mode.

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

What Viktor said

mikky32

I receipt today my Tekin RS pro back from repairs.
I started to build in the the speedo in my car to test it.
After updating the software from the 180 to the 189 software and resetting the speedo and setting it up just as i did with the speedo of a frend of mine, I tested the speedo.
First i thougt the battery was empty but after changing the battery the power was still verry low.
Than i tried the other speedo. that one has a lot of power.
I tried several other things and i notised that i still have the same problems
I readed the discription where they wrote what they did.
Replaced wire and tested it.
But i don't beliefe that they tested it with the 189 software were the problems were.
in the 180 the speedo hath before also power and that was not the problem.

Now i'm not happy at all. I wrote a mail back to Jim and Ty.
I hope i get soon an reply on wath to do.
also somwhere along the way my receipt is lost so now i don't have the 120 warrenty.

i have updated the Tekin for a frend and used the same settings. The car was running great.
i used the same motor and sensor wire so that is not te problem.
I have tested that.
tested that before i send the speedo for repair.
if it was only the wire i can do it self. don't need to send it.
I thouged i was clear to Jim wath the problems were.

I hope to hear soon of them and that they help me. I'm not amused at all

now i cant race till i have an other speedo

padailey

iTrader: (11)

Looking for some suggestions for my setup for my RS and 189. I basically started with Jason Moberly's setup listed earlier. Then changed the drag brake to my taste and messed with the "boost" and gearing.

These are VTA runs.

1. 4 cell NIMH (newer battery). 17.5 duo motor timing in middle hole. ESC boost at 15. 4.43 FDR. Motor was right at 100 degrees. Couldn't keep up with the 21.5 lipos (we gear at 5.0 for the 21.5's) on top speed but punch in the infield was very good!

2. Again using the same motor/battery combo I set the boost to 20 and geared to a 4.13 FDR. Temp was around 120. The top speed was about up to par with the 21.5's but the punch was gone! I wasn't expecting it to be that sluggish at all. Lap times were even a little slower than the first run. I would have thought it should have been better. Would you guys have expected this? What could I try to make it better?

3. Well mains were coming up and I didn't like how the 17.5 was working so I switched to a lipo/Novak 21.5. Timing maxed on the motor and just to be safe I put the boost at 10. As I mentioned earlier we have a 5.0 FDR limit on the 21.5's so that was where I was geared. Temp was around 100. Speed was on par with everyone else but seemed a little sluggish also. Not like the 17.5 was but certainly not what I'm used to with this combo. Lap times were about 3 tenths better than the previous runs, but I was off the pace by 8 tenths. I'm usually only 2-3 tenths off the best lap times. Just keep going with the boost?

I'm not down on the speedy. Thought it was nice and smooth.. brakes were awesome... all good I just need to find that sweet spot! I'll probably stick with the 21.5 setup but just added the 17.5 to show what I had tried. Basically wanted to know if my attempts to make it better were going in the right direction.

Thanks

TRF415boy

If your speedo works with 180 and not 189 then I don't see why you sent the speedo for repair, the problem is obviously with the software and not your speedo.

Keep in mind that 189 is a BETA and it may have bugs and that's why it hasn't been released yet.

Tekin Prez

Mikky,

You need to call me directly and we can go over this. We would not have updated the software to 189 for you. You have to have the right Hotwire to go with it so we have the customers do it to make sure.

There is nothing wrong with 189 software. There could be something wrong with the unit that only shows up in 189. That would be very odd however. Things are usually broke or work and if 180 or 183 work well the unit is not broke.

If we cannot make it work right I want to see this unusual case myself so no worries on a receipt. We know when we sent it to you anyway.

Just realized you are not in the US. I will respond to your email you sent and see what we can figure out to get you rolling.

Jim Campbell
Tekin

HarryN

iTrader: (2)

This is true. I was having issues at first with 189 Dual Mode. The power seemed quite weak for my liking. Furthermore, it seemed like my batteries were being drained way too quickly. Yet my batteries never overheated nor did my motor and ESC. When I started using Sensored mode (and after a friend at the track told me to go into sensored mode...thanks Chris) and some settings he recommended, oh man my car was FLYING!!!! Run time definitely went up and my motor felt a lot better.

All this feedback is important to Tekin so they may improve their software and help it be more stable and ready for customer release. For me, I am using 189 Sensored mode and I am in love with it. I also updated a couple people's Tekin ESC that race in Trans Am, and they too also love it. We are all running in sensored mode.

So my question to you, mikky32, are you using Dual Mode or Sensored? If you are using Dual Mode, go to Sensored. If you are using Sensored, then I don't know.

mikky32

Thanks Jim,
must i send it back again?

No i live in the Netherlands. Not around the corner.
I hooped that my problems were solved.

TRF415boy i updated 3 other Tekin RS pro's with it on my own computer.
All of them were running very well.
tried several sensor weirs and motors.
Tried my motor and sensor weir on the other speedo's and that worked great.
I have from the start problems with the speedo.
First thing was that it didn't drive away some times in dual mode.
after installing the 189 software it drives verry slowley and after a few times bracking and full trotle i hath more power but after bracking it fals back.
In the 180 it drives also not fine away.
didn't test it now but i want to drive with the most power.

here we are going to drive 5 cell 10,5 and a lot of drivers drive the lrp spx. the only way to keep up with them and having a change to win is with the 189 software.
so as it doesn't work i can better buy a cheap speedo. than i drive as fast as i do now but than for 55 dollar.