theisgroup

iTrader: (10)

have you tried flashing the firmware again? also, i might try a differenet version of the firmware. if you are runnign a boosted class, you may try going back to 203 and run that for a weekend and see if you are seeing the same thing. if you are then it is hardware and if not, then it might be a bad flash. i had an issue where I would have to re-calibrate every time i turned on the speedo. i had to flash it down to 203 and flash back to 212 and that resolved the issue

wingracer

iTrader: (24)

I believe he said that is what he has had to do. Don't think he has tried flashing down yet though. That might be worth a shot.

theisgroup

iTrader: (10)

hard to tell, he says he resets it and then calibrates

Advil

iTrader: (19)

I have NEVER seen this guy slow... (says the lapper) sheesh

InspGadgt

That's what mine does...it gets it's boost back after I turn it off and turn it back on again.

Dog Bone

iTrader: (4)

What kind of servo are you running? There's a fast guy who participates in our series who runs a Tekin with a Savox, and he had exactly the same problem. Some online research showed that Savox servo's can spike their power draw, which in turn seemed to cause the Tekin to drop the turbo setting...simply powering off/on would fix the problem, albeit temporarily.

I think the solution was to put an additional cap on the receiver to store up some power for the power spikes...

The above is 3rd hand, so the above may or may not be useful...

InspGadgt

I use a JR 4750 in my touring car. Just a plain ol analog high torque servo. If that is so running a receiver pack should also cure the issue...as I have a receiver pack on the way I'll give that a try.

HarryLeach

Open up the RS case and make sure your servo leads and power switch wires are in good shape, no kinks, melted insulation, or damage of any kind to the wires.

I didn't have boost issues, but I have had glitching issues that were resolved after replacing the servo lead and power switch wires when I discovered them kinked in the case. Those damaged wires meant my servo was drawing down the BEC, and knocking out the Rx, because the extra resistance in the wires didn't allow the full 6V/3A to make it to the Rx.

I can't say for certain, but it could be possible that something is drawing down radio voltage to the RS to bump it into dual mode without dropping it all the way out.

AARON YOUNG

iTrader: (15)

I have to re flash to factory default settings then reload 212 and program. A few people have been saying it's from overheating the speedo . Going to install caps and a fan before the nats.

theisgroup

iTrader: (10)

i see my confusion now.

flashing is when you load a version of firmware to the device.

to reset the tekin to factory default, you push a couple buttons while you turn on the speedo. then all the user programmable setting are "reset" to factory default.

when you flash v203, v208, or v212 to the speedo, it reload the program that runs the speedo. this also does factory default the unit as well, but that is more likely because memory locations of the user programmable setting have changed from version to version.



as long as you have a game plan to try and resolve your issue. if "they" say it is heat in the speedo, how many lights are flashing at the end of your run?

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

If you're losing boost it can be other things on the BEC circuit like the servo, p/t,etc.

First thing to check is the sensors themselves. Use the Rs's sensor checker feature and verify that you have all 3 sensors reporting.

Next remove all un essential items from the receiver. Check it again.

Post all of the equipment you're using and we'll get you sorted out.

InspGadgt

I'm using a Spectrum RX SR3500, a JR 4750 servo, the Tekin RS ESC with a D2 17.5 motor and the only other thing plugged into the receiver is the MRT transponder.

I won't be able to get to the track until Sunday but any suggestions I will keep in mind. If it is a BEC power issue running a RX pack should let us know...then at that point I can narrow it down to if the servo or transponder is drawing too much power or if there is an issue with the BEC. I don't want to have to permanently run a RX pack but if we can narrow it down to something having too much draw running an extra cap on the RX won't be too bad. I know Spektrum can sometimes have issues if the power isn't really strong to the RX that normally causes a glitching issue...if it comes down to that then it will be time to look at a different radio system. Currently I'm using a Futaba radio with the Spektrum module and RX and I've been looking to get the new DX3R Pro...but if it is a RX issue in general then it is probably a good idea to make the switch to a different brand. I didn't really want to do that though since I already have 4 Spektrum receivers so it makes more sense to stay with that brand if I can.

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

It can be on the BEC. Yes a rx will prove otherwise.

Sensor boards in motors can go bad also so be prepared to swap out the motor also.

M-Technic

iTrader: (15)

I'm not going to say they are the only ones that face issues, but I see far more issues with Spektrum equipment than any other Tx/Rx combos.

InspGadgt

Once I found out about the low voltage issue with Spektrum years ago I haven't had any problems that I could say was definately the system so I stayed with them. But after hearing about the power issue with some things like the servos I am starting to put things together and can definately see where this could be an issue with Spektrum and their issues with being power hungry. At the same time I've got 4 Spektrum RXs so switching systems at this point isn't practical...but might be necessary. If I am able to cure my fade issue with a RX battery or a capacitor I will definately move to a Futaba or Airtronics system.