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Old 10-17-2010, 06:15 AM
  #17491  
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Hi guys, would like to know if anyone has got bad experience with the Redlines' rotor? I had a bent rotor shaft (17.5T) today, and I didn't even remember having a huge crash or some sort! Its a NEW motor in my F109, only ran thru 2 packs of battery.
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Old 10-17-2010, 06:21 AM
  #17492  
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Originally Posted by pakk
we're talking about cutting the LVC out of the Novak Smart boost, not the Tekin RS.
ooooops sorry

my bad , that'll teach me to read it propperly
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Old 10-17-2010, 07:13 AM
  #17493  
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Originally Posted by 20 SMOKE
no,right know i am only doing the state series,next month i will since there are a few races i am not going to
Come to our state race man, WGT is awesome at Village Raceway, we have very high traction.
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Old 10-17-2010, 07:47 AM
  #17494  
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Originally Posted by tommi
Hi guys, would like to know if anyone has got bad experience with the Redlines' rotor? I had a bent rotor shaft (17.5T) today, and I didn't even remember having a huge crash or some sort! Its a NEW motor in my F109, only ran thru 2 packs of battery.
All it takes is a freak crash to damage something like that but this is the first I've heard about it. That doesn't mean it can't happen though. These rotors have been bullet proof IMO. The shaft was straight when you first put it in the car correct??? I'm sure if you PM Randy Pike something might possibly be worked out.
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Old 10-17-2010, 07:52 AM
  #17495  
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Originally Posted by jjfo80
hey guys I have read thru a few pages but havent came across this as yet.

I have a futaba 2.4ghz stick radio with a 603ff rx running with a tekin rs and a simple johnson 540 silver can. I am teaching a new guy about learning how to gear a engine and driving style as the engine is very forgiving for treating it like shit and still working but heres my problem,

I have the hotwire and updated the firmware to vegas 208 set the transmitter trims and sub trims all to zero and 100% where they need to be. Cal'ed the tx to the speedo and the speedo is getting full brake signal and full throttle signal but heres the catch. I have full throttle but the engine is not getting full brake even tho the lights on the speedo is telling me it is by scaling down and then flashing all the lights to say yes I have full brake.

I went to the hotwire and set everything up by having 100% brake strength no push control and a custom throttle profile. and still the same thing.
But if I move the brake strength to 0% I notice the engine doesnt even think of wanting to try and slow down but put it back to 100% and you can here the engine wanting to slow down but no where near strong enough to stop the car.

Can anyone point me in some direction please.
Cheers
Ian

My first question would be how old is the motor/rotor? Treating the motor like the "S" word as you stated could have weakened the rotor and when continuous over heating happens rotor strength fades and the first to go would be bottom end punch and breaks. Have you noticed that the RPMS have gotten faster??? This is another sign of a rotor getting weak. You radio and RS setting seem spot on.
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Old 10-17-2010, 07:54 AM
  #17496  
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Originally Posted by M-Technic
Come to our state race man, WGT is awesome at Village Raceway, we have very high traction.
best traction in the series!
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Old 10-17-2010, 08:00 AM
  #17497  
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is it possable to get a new sensor pack for a redline motor ??

mine has stopped seeing the sensors

yes i have tried new leads, speedo and motors it is 100% the sensor pack

thanks in advance Phil
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Old 10-17-2010, 08:16 AM
  #17498  
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Originally Posted by M-Technic
Come to our state race man, WGT is awesome at Village Raceway, we have very high traction.
your 5 hrs away from me so nope
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Old 10-17-2010, 08:26 AM
  #17499  
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Originally Posted by sidecarphil1
is it possable to get a new sensor pack for a redline motor ??

mine has stopped seeing the sensors

yes i have tried new leads, speedo and motors it is 100% the sensor pack

thanks in advance Phil
yes you can just need to contact tekin to purchase one
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Old 10-17-2010, 09:33 AM
  #17500  
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Yes the sensor board part # is TT2283.

If you have a bent rotor while in the car something went through the gear mesh most likely. It happens and usually ruins the spur/pinion gear.
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Old 10-17-2010, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by 20 SMOKE
your 5 hrs away from me so nope
Wrong attitude man... we came to your race! And it was only 3 hours to Adrenaline.
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Old 10-17-2010, 10:04 AM
  #17502  
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Originally Posted by M-Technic
Wrong attitude man... we came to your race! And it was only 3 hours to Adrenaline.
i will rephrase it,financially i cant travel that far yet
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Old 10-17-2010, 08:06 PM
  #17503  
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Originally Posted by STLNLST
My first question would be how old is the motor/rotor? Treating the motor like the "S" word as you stated could have weakened the rotor and when continuous over heating happens rotor strength fades and the first to go would be bottom end punch and breaks. Have you noticed that the RPMS have gotten faster??? This is another sign of a rotor getting weak. You radio and RS setting seem spot on.
Yeah mate I shouldnt have said that lol.... this is a brand new motor straight out of the box besides running in the brushes. Its had no work at all besides that.
Its confusing thats for sure.... Yeah your right tho if the motor was abused I would understand it would be time to change it but its new so I didnt think I would have any problem. Any other ideas STLNLST?
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Old 10-17-2010, 08:57 PM
  #17504  
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Originally Posted by jjfo80
Yeah mate I shouldnt have said that lol.... this is a brand new motor straight out of the box besides running in the brushes. Its had no work at all besides that.
Its confusing thats for sure.... Yeah your right tho if the motor was abused I would understand it would be time to change it but its new so I didnt think I would have any problem. Any other ideas STLNLST?
Running in brushes???? What motor do you have?
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Old 10-17-2010, 09:17 PM
  #17505  
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Originally Posted by STLNLST
Running in brushes???? What motor do you have?
He said it was a "Johnson 540 silver can" in his first post...LOL
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