Tekin RS ESC sensored
Need a little help.
One race weekend during the begging of the main ( about 2 minutes in ) 3/4 down the streight at full throttle all of a sudden the car acted like I went from full throttle to full brake. I tried the throttle and nothing happens, but the steering worked, this happened twice during the main.
The next race weekend the car held full throttle and would not stop ( run away ) the steering was fine but no matter what I tried to do with the throttle ( brake or neutral ) the car still was at full throttle. The only way I was able to stop the car was to drive it into the outside wall and turn the power switch off on the speedo.
I'm using a Venom 13.5 motor, timing set at 0 deg on the can, speedo timing set at 45 deg and turbo set at 15. the motor is coming off the track at 155 deg F.
Any suggestions,
Thanks
One race weekend during the begging of the main ( about 2 minutes in ) 3/4 down the streight at full throttle all of a sudden the car acted like I went from full throttle to full brake. I tried the throttle and nothing happens, but the steering worked, this happened twice during the main.
The next race weekend the car held full throttle and would not stop ( run away ) the steering was fine but no matter what I tried to do with the throttle ( brake or neutral ) the car still was at full throttle. The only way I was able to stop the car was to drive it into the outside wall and turn the power switch off on the speedo.
I'm using a Venom 13.5 motor, timing set at 0 deg on the can, speedo timing set at 45 deg and turbo set at 15. the motor is coming off the track at 155 deg F.
Any suggestions,
Thanks
I now won't run the RS without a booster.
I have also swapped my main ESC to a Black Diamond.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...esc-issue.html
Tech Regular
Capacitor
I was wondering if anyone has tired different capacitor setups with their Tekin RS with a 17.5. I am running a Duo2 17.5 and also a Tekin Redline 17.5. I usually run on two different tracks 110ft x 50ft and 85ft x 50ft. I know that LRP makes a capacitor for single cell and I have read that people are using multiple Tekin caps. What are the pros vs cons running different cap setups?
Tech Elite
iTrader: (49)
I was wondering if anyone has tired different capacitor setups with their Tekin RS with a 17.5. I am running a Duo2 17.5 and also a Tekin Redline 17.5. I usually run on two different tracks 110ft x 50ft and 85ft x 50ft. I know that LRP makes a capacitor for single cell and I have read that people are using multiple Tekin caps. What are the pros vs cons running different cap setups?
I was advised with my RS to run 2 caps when i was getting close to the motor limit to help the speedo
I have run 2 since then on without issues
I have run 2 since then on without issues
Tech Master
The caps are only required to regulate the power flow when there are large spikes in power useage that the esc/battery can't provide as fast as the motor wants it. Low turn mod motors can do this, 17.5's can't. I doubt there would be any recogniseable increase in performance by either changing or adding caps on a 17.5 setup.
BTW, my definition may not be perfect, but it's the gist, i'm no electronics engineer
BTW, my definition may not be perfect, but it's the gist, i'm no electronics engineer
Tech Apprentice
I think you need to justify that. I have never run turbo below11 so I could easily say never run it below 11. My recommendation would be not to run a 10.5 with a start rpm below 10K, which I could turn in to "neve", but you run start rpm much lower so it seems.
I just think if one is going to use such a strong assertion there needs to be a basis for it- beginners read that sort of stuff and take it as the law.
No offence; just a question of forums and care need on English used
I just think if one is going to use such a strong assertion there needs to be a basis for it- beginners read that sort of stuff and take it as the law.
No offence; just a question of forums and care need on English used
Tech Elite
iTrader: (15)
I was wondering if anyone has tired different capacitor setups with their Tekin RS with a 17.5. I am running a Duo2 17.5 and also a Tekin Redline 17.5. I usually run on two different tracks 110ft x 50ft and 85ft x 50ft. I know that LRP makes a capacitor for single cell and I have read that people are using multiple Tekin caps. What are the pros vs cons running different cap setups?
Caps that can power a fan for 5 seconds after being disconnected from power are the OPPOSITE of what we're looking for. We want a low esr cap that has the ability to soak up and release the energy quickly therefore stabilizing the battery line. A cap(s) that takes that long to discharge isn't helping your cause.
Two of the TT3520 caps will not really gain power but it can help keep things running cooler. We reccomend this for most of our guys running low turn mod motors like 3, 4 and 5 turn. This is especially helpful in 1s applications because of the ripple current.
Adding a 2nd cap will not hurt anything. I do reccomend using a pair of the SAME cap, don't mix and match.
Two of the TT3520 caps will not really gain power but it can help keep things running cooler. We reccomend this for most of our guys running low turn mod motors like 3, 4 and 5 turn. This is especially helpful in 1s applications because of the ripple current.
Adding a 2nd cap will not hurt anything. I do reccomend using a pair of the SAME cap, don't mix and match.
21.5
21.5 Tekin Redline w/Default timing on motor
(well what ever they get shipped with)
Boost 40
Turbo max
Brakes 100
Start 4678
End 12500
Delay 0.49
FDR 5.1
Does the start and end rpm sound right..
How do you determine the start and end rpm
dose my fdr sound correct for the motor as i can go up on down depending on temps.
(well what ever they get shipped with)
Boost 40
Turbo max
Brakes 100
Start 4678
End 12500
Delay 0.49
FDR 5.1
Does the start and end rpm sound right..
How do you determine the start and end rpm
dose my fdr sound correct for the motor as i can go up on down depending on temps.
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
Caps that can power a fan for 5 seconds after being disconnected from power are the OPPOSITE of what we're looking for. We want a low esr cap that has the ability to soak up and release the energy quickly therefore stabilizing the battery line. A cap(s) that takes that long to discharge isn't helping your cause.
Two of the TT3520 caps will not really gain power but it can help keep things running cooler. We reccomend this for most of our guys running low turn mod motors like 3, 4 and 5 turn. This is especially helpful in 1s applications because of the ripple current.
Adding a 2nd cap will not hurt anything. I do reccomend using a pair of the SAME cap, don't mix and match.
Two of the TT3520 caps will not really gain power but it can help keep things running cooler. We reccomend this for most of our guys running low turn mod motors like 3, 4 and 5 turn. This is especially helpful in 1s applications because of the ripple current.
Adding a 2nd cap will not hurt anything. I do reccomend using a pair of the SAME cap, don't mix and match.
what cap(s) would u add? if any
Tech Lord
iTrader: (103)
just run the one stock cap that comes with the rs,if you see a increase in the heat on the esc(by all leds flashing)look at your setup to see if it can be changed and add a second cap.you should be fine with a 10.5
The stock cap spec'd in the unit is fine in nearly all applications.
Your 21.5 setup looks good to me for TC.
Your 21.5 setup looks good to me for TC.
Tech Lord
iTrader: (103)
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
Tech Elite
iTrader: (34)
Hey guys, I am selling all my electric equipment.
I have a pair of Tekin RS Pros
and a few Tekin Motors (4.5, 10.5, 10.5).
Shoot me a PM if interested. You can find my sale thread in the respective RCTech area.
Thanks.
I have a pair of Tekin RS Pros
and a few Tekin Motors (4.5, 10.5, 10.5).
Shoot me a PM if interested. You can find my sale thread in the respective RCTech area.
Thanks.