New TEAM WAVE racing brushless system
09-15-2009, 08:57 PM
#421
Like TEAM WAVE says it works at +95% throttle regardless of rpm or load. Its also important to realize that turbo doesn't only add rpm to the top end. I found it gave me an instant power boost at any rpm. Even coming out of tight hairpins, if I gave it full throttle, look out!
09-16-2009, 01:27 AM
#422
Yup, Dragonfire already answer most of the question and explain how timeshift and drive profile works. With mixing drive profile, timeshift and turbo, there are so many combination to tune up. The turbo will be engaged (if enabled) when your throttle is over 95% and will give extra boost to the motor and make insane speed. Turbo will increase the motor/ESC temperature, you need to drop 4-5 teeth if enabled! We usually add heatsink/fan on the motor to keep the temperature down.
If you don't use turbo, you can gear up 3-4 teeth (over gear) to compensate straight line speedo but the corning will be improved and overall linearity and drivability will be improved.
We don't recommend using adjustable timing motor (unless keep it at 0 timing) since it will affect the whole range of throttle and brake and make adverse effect on the ESC and may blow up the ESC/motor if not tuned correctly.
If you don't use turbo, you can gear up 3-4 teeth (over gear) to compensate straight line speedo but the corning will be improved and overall linearity and drivability will be improved.
We don't recommend using adjustable timing motor (unless keep it at 0 timing) since it will affect the whole range of throttle and brake and make adverse effect on the ESC and may blow up the ESC/motor if not tuned correctly.
So based on this turbo purely adds timing on top of all other settings so you basically gain top end but more than likely you will trade some bottom end (prolly less than most speedo's) so its more or less a big track (where speed matters more) thing. I would also assume that by this that adjustment of timing on the motor will have a similar effect but if you don't need it (otherwise motor timing zero) than less motor timing is better cause the speedy does the job.
Sounds a lot like reading the Tekin thread actually but at least this speedy has a heatsink and fan and brakes and dosen't need a PC to get the most out of it.
09-16-2009, 01:52 AM
#423
RB50 Free Shipping With Setting Card
09-22-2009, 02:23 PM
#424
I just did some playing around with the RB50 using the SP motor checker. The Turbo function makes a huge difference to top end and max power of any motor. I would suggest running turbo and timeshift 1 would be faster than no turbo and timeshift 5. Also of note was that when we wound up the timing on the motor the speedy got HOT real fast on timeshift 5 and turbo. I would imagine then that the speedy then achieves virtually the maximum timing possible with the motor set to zero. It would be interesting to know how much that is though. Just be careful to set your motor timing down if you are running the speedy maxed out.
09-22-2009, 02:40 PM
#425
Hi guys would the novak 10.5 balistic be ok to use on a rb50 ?
09-22-2009, 05:35 PM
#427
I just did some playing around with the RB50 using the SP motor checker. The Turbo function makes a huge difference to top end and max power of any motor. I would suggest running turbo and timeshift 1 would be faster than no turbo and timeshift 5. Also of note was that when we wound up the timing on the motor the speedy got HOT real fast on timeshift 5 and turbo. I would imagine then that the speedy then achieves virtually the maximum timing possible with the motor set to zero. It would be interesting to know how much that is though. Just be careful to set your motor timing down if you are running the speedy maxed out.
The settings used on the RB50 is timeshift 5 and turbo on, 0deg timing on the motor... a 17.5 doesn't cause the ESC to heat up too much.
I would recommend to ALWAYS use 0 deg timing on the motor when using the RB50...
Tony
09-22-2009, 10:16 PM
#428
We always suggest keep motor timing at "Zero" on the motor and let the ESC to do all the job! Adjust the motor timing on the end bell will affect the whole throttle range, causing motor heat up and may affect the ESC software calculation of timing. Normally you need to drop 4-5 teeth when running with turbo and take care on your motor temperature at all time.
Adding heatsink / fan on the motor is highly recommended. Incorrect motor timing adjustment and gearing will eventually kill the motor and the ESC.
If user really want to adjust the motor timing on the endbell, try 0.5 degree - 1.0 degree each time and take care on the temperature.
ESC temperature will raise rapidly if free spinning with turbo on (i.e. test on motor checker). We highly recommend not free spinning for more than 2sec at full throttle.
If you would like to go fast, take care on every detail is very important. It may spend more time and afford in tunnig but you can fly to the moon once you found the sweet spot. Only change one parameter at a time is also suggested. Do not just follow other drivers gearing, RB ESC needs different gearing than other speedo even with the same motor.
Adding heatsink / fan on the motor is highly recommended. Incorrect motor timing adjustment and gearing will eventually kill the motor and the ESC.
If user really want to adjust the motor timing on the endbell, try 0.5 degree - 1.0 degree each time and take care on the temperature.
ESC temperature will raise rapidly if free spinning with turbo on (i.e. test on motor checker). We highly recommend not free spinning for more than 2sec at full throttle.
If you would like to go fast, take care on every detail is very important. It may spend more time and afford in tunnig but you can fly to the moon once you found the sweet spot. Only change one parameter at a time is also suggested. Do not just follow other drivers gearing, RB ESC needs different gearing than other speedo even with the same motor.
09-22-2009, 11:00 PM
#429
We always suggest keep motor timing at "Zero" on the motor and let the ESC to do all the job! Adjust the motor timing on the end bell will affect the whole throttle range, causing motor heat up and may affect the ESC software calculation of timing. Normally you need to drop 4-5 teeth when running with turbo and take care on your motor temperature at all time.
Adding heatsink / fan on the motor is highly recommended. Incorrect motor timing adjustment and gearing will eventually kill the motor and the ESC.
If user really want to adjust the motor timing on the endbell, try 0.5 degree - 1.0 degree each time and take care on the temperature.
ESC temperature will raise rapidly if free spinning with turbo on (i.e. test on motor checker). We highly recommend not free spinning for more than 2sec at full throttle.
If you would like to go fast, take care on every detail is very important. It may spend more time and afford in tunnig but you can fly to the moon once you found the sweet spot. Only change one parameter at a time is also suggested. Do not just follow other drivers gearing, RB ESC needs different gearing than other speedo even with the same motor.
Adding heatsink / fan on the motor is highly recommended. Incorrect motor timing adjustment and gearing will eventually kill the motor and the ESC.
If user really want to adjust the motor timing on the endbell, try 0.5 degree - 1.0 degree each time and take care on the temperature.
ESC temperature will raise rapidly if free spinning with turbo on (i.e. test on motor checker). We highly recommend not free spinning for more than 2sec at full throttle.
If you would like to go fast, take care on every detail is very important. It may spend more time and afford in tunnig but you can fly to the moon once you found the sweet spot. Only change one parameter at a time is also suggested. Do not just follow other drivers gearing, RB ESC needs different gearing than other speedo even with the same motor.
Max the only reason i ask about the balistic is that they state N on the end bell is not 0 degrees what do you think
I want to run these motors because i can change between motor winds at a fraction of the cost
09-22-2009, 11:03 PM
#430
Ballistic Motor Timing Information Update (Preliminary)
In an effort to answer a number of questions relating to motor timing we have compiled some information to help you better understand static motor timing and its effects with our Ballistic Series of motors.
“How many Degrees of Timing does my Ballistic Motor have?”
Our Ballistic motors come with their timing calibrated and set from the factory. Using custom built and calibrated electronic equipment we set each and every motor to 30 degrees of timing. After Calibration the timing label is added and this set timing corresponds to the “N” on the timing label on the side
Each line on the label denotes a 5 degree change, so the timing available on the motor the label corresponds as follows:
-3 -2 -1 N +1 +2 +3
15 20 25 30 35 40 45
N = 30 (rows do not line up correctly)
SPECIAL NOTE: The timing we are describing is the ACTUAL ELECTRICAL TIMING in the motor, not just some arbitrarily reference made from a point on the outside of the motor like many of our competitors' motors. This makes comparing timing settings between different brands of motors difficult without the proper equipment.
“What Does Timing Adjustment do?”
We set our timing at an optimized point for most general applications. Adjusting the timing should only be done in small increments and with great care to observe the changes in system performance and temperatures.
WE RECOMMEND THAT YOUR SYSTEM’S TEMPERATURE NEVER EXCEED 160 DEGREES FARENHEIGHT.
When adjusting the timing, we recommend adjusting the timing, at most, 1 notch, or 5 degrees at a time.
When you turn the timing up to a more positive number (from N to +1) your motor will produce more no-load RPM and generally suffer a slight reduction in torque. To combat excessive heating brought about the loss of torque we recommend gearing down 1 tooth on the pinion for each notch (5 degree increment).
When turning the timing down, to a more negative number (from N to -1) your motor will produce less no-load RPM and generally experience an increase in torque. To combat a loss of top end speed brought about by the loss of RPM we recommend gearing up 1 tooth on the pinion for each notch (5 degree increment).
In an effort to answer a number of questions relating to motor timing we have compiled some information to help you better understand static motor timing and its effects with our Ballistic Series of motors.
“How many Degrees of Timing does my Ballistic Motor have?”
Our Ballistic motors come with their timing calibrated and set from the factory. Using custom built and calibrated electronic equipment we set each and every motor to 30 degrees of timing. After Calibration the timing label is added and this set timing corresponds to the “N” on the timing label on the side
Each line on the label denotes a 5 degree change, so the timing available on the motor the label corresponds as follows:
-3 -2 -1 N +1 +2 +3
15 20 25 30 35 40 45
N = 30 (rows do not line up correctly)
SPECIAL NOTE: The timing we are describing is the ACTUAL ELECTRICAL TIMING in the motor, not just some arbitrarily reference made from a point on the outside of the motor like many of our competitors' motors. This makes comparing timing settings between different brands of motors difficult without the proper equipment.
“What Does Timing Adjustment do?”
We set our timing at an optimized point for most general applications. Adjusting the timing should only be done in small increments and with great care to observe the changes in system performance and temperatures.
WE RECOMMEND THAT YOUR SYSTEM’S TEMPERATURE NEVER EXCEED 160 DEGREES FARENHEIGHT.
When adjusting the timing, we recommend adjusting the timing, at most, 1 notch, or 5 degrees at a time.
When you turn the timing up to a more positive number (from N to +1) your motor will produce more no-load RPM and generally suffer a slight reduction in torque. To combat excessive heating brought about the loss of torque we recommend gearing down 1 tooth on the pinion for each notch (5 degree increment).
When turning the timing down, to a more negative number (from N to -1) your motor will produce less no-load RPM and generally experience an increase in torque. To combat a loss of top end speed brought about by the loss of RPM we recommend gearing up 1 tooth on the pinion for each notch (5 degree increment).
09-23-2009, 12:12 AM
#431
I'd turn the timing all the way down with that motor and be careful with time shift. All the way down is still 15 degrees and thats dangerous.
09-23-2009, 03:19 AM
#432
All motors have a certain amount of timing built in, they need it too work effectively. For example, the wave linears, have about 30deg built in, but are fixed timing.
What novak have done, by the sounds of it, has labelled the motors up with actual timing, rather than the relative of before.
I.e. It may have stated 0deg for ease of reference, but in actual terms the motor timing is closer to 30. The statement in the novak bumf about labelling the motors different to competitors gives me that impression..
Regards
Ed
09-23-2009, 03:34 AM
#433
Actually, I'd stick it on N and leave it.
All motors have a certain amount of timing built in, they need it too work effectively. For example, the wave linears, have about 30deg built in, but are fixed timing.
What novak have done, by the sounds of it, has labelled the motors up with actual timing, rather than the relative of before.
I.e. It may have stated 0deg for ease of reference, but in actual terms the motor timing is closer to 30. The statement in the novak bumf about labelling the motors different to competitors gives me that impression..
Regards
Ed
All motors have a certain amount of timing built in, they need it too work effectively. For example, the wave linears, have about 30deg built in, but are fixed timing.
What novak have done, by the sounds of it, has labelled the motors up with actual timing, rather than the relative of before.
I.e. It may have stated 0deg for ease of reference, but in actual terms the motor timing is closer to 30. The statement in the novak bumf about labelling the motors different to competitors gives me that impression..
Regards
Ed
You should run the middle for timing on motors with this speedy, which on most motors maybe already positive timing but only a small amount!! if you go to far on timing on motor and any modern speedy with lots of timing it will sacrifice bottom end or stress motor and speedy!!
09-23-2009, 07:17 AM
#434
Um, that's what I said.... First line.
Stick the motor on N (middle) and leave it....
The problem is that most motors have timing labelled relative to the mid point... The new novak doesn't, it states the absolute timing amount, hence the confusion!
Stick the motor on N (middle) and leave it....
The problem is that most motors have timing labelled relative to the mid point... The new novak doesn't, it states the absolute timing amount, hence the confusion!
09-23-2009, 08:11 AM
#435
Tech Apprentice
You Go Edd!! 
Though the matter still stands, the team wave is LACKING in the grunt when compared to the GM.
Ive had a good look at the gm over the last few days and have started to understand why the GM is so good at what it does.
The wave system is really really good when it is wound up, but its getting the car to spool up fast enough.
Edd, you got an MSN addy want a word with you about a few things.
Cheers
Craig
Though the matter still stands, the team wave is LACKING in the grunt when compared to the GM.
Ive had a good look at the gm over the last few days and have started to understand why the GM is so good at what it does.
The wave system is really really good when it is wound up, but its getting the car to spool up fast enough.
Edd, you got an MSN addy want a word with you about a few things.
Cheers
Craig