13Likespro3
11-30-2002, 08:42 PM
#1247
Tech Elite
Pro-3 Hop-ups
lee82gx;
I forgot if you are racing or not. If your racing, pick up one pair each of the 27mm Pro-linier springs for your car.
Part #'s, 6841, 6843, 6844, 6846, 6847, 6849, 50, 51, 52.
Unless you've been racing for awhile. I wouldn't recommend a Front one-way ($40). Makes the car much harder to drive for most people. The upper deck is OK (I don't use one) but only If your racing on carpet or a "Sticky" prepared racetrack. Also If you can't move the electronics all the way back by using a micro size ESC & Receiver. The batteries are very difficult to change out.
The Heatsink motor plate and Aluminum side bulkhead are good hop-ups that provide more support for the countershaft and cooling for the motor. Otherwise save your money for better batteries, charger, new brushes, etc.
You can use the 6 degree caster blocks to get more steering, that and turn the front hinge pin block upside down (in the instructions)
I forgot if you are racing or not. If your racing, pick up one pair each of the 27mm Pro-linier springs for your car.
Part #'s, 6841, 6843, 6844, 6846, 6847, 6849, 50, 51, 52.
Unless you've been racing for awhile. I wouldn't recommend a Front one-way ($40). Makes the car much harder to drive for most people. The upper deck is OK (I don't use one) but only If your racing on carpet or a "Sticky" prepared racetrack. Also If you can't move the electronics all the way back by using a micro size ESC & Receiver. The batteries are very difficult to change out.
The Heatsink motor plate and Aluminum side bulkhead are good hop-ups that provide more support for the countershaft and cooling for the motor. Otherwise save your money for better batteries, charger, new brushes, etc.
You can use the 6 degree caster blocks to get more steering, that and turn the front hinge pin block upside down (in the instructions)
Last edited by popsracer; 11-30-2002 at 08:44 PM.
11-30-2002, 08:44 PM
#1248
depends on what pro3 version you have. i would recommend the following:
HB upper deck
pro-linear springs (depending on your track)
heatsink motor mount
graphite arms (use the rear hub carrier that comes with this)
spur gear and pinion to properly gear your 27T motor
HB upper deck
pro-linear springs (depending on your track)
heatsink motor mount
graphite arms (use the rear hub carrier that comes with this)
spur gear and pinion to properly gear your 27T motor
11-30-2002, 08:58 PM
#1249
Tech Elite
Front one-way
I ran a Front one-way today for the first time and it really gave the car alot more steering. Only problem was that it sprinkled rain on and off so the track was "Slippery when wet".
After much experimentation, 27t Stock Motors in this car seem to like an overall (final) gear ratio of around 7.00 to 7.20:1. Taller ratios (under 7.00) seems to take away too much punch in the corners. Shorter ratios (above 7.20) top speed suffers.
After much experimentation, 27t Stock Motors in this car seem to like an overall (final) gear ratio of around 7.00 to 7.20:1. Taller ratios (under 7.00) seems to take away too much punch in the corners. Shorter ratios (above 7.20) top speed suffers.
12-02-2002, 04:09 AM
#1251
The caster block is the C-shaped part. They have a number and letter on the inside edge (eg R6), which indicates the side and caster angle of the block.
The hinge pin blocks are the parts that the suspension arm mounts in on the chassis. The standard setting is 2deg, but if you turn the front block upside down, you get 0deg.
The total caster angle is the sum of the hinge-pin setting and caster block.
The hinge pin blocks are the parts that the suspension arm mounts in on the chassis. The standard setting is 2deg, but if you turn the front block upside down, you get 0deg.
The total caster angle is the sum of the hinge-pin setting and caster block.
12-02-2002, 08:15 AM
#1254
Tech Elite
Pro-3 decisions
lee82gx;
Don't waste money buying new shocks for the car. Even the plastic shocks work just fine. Put bladders in the shock caps instead of the foam inside the shock, but that's all that is needed.
Use the 6 deg Caster Blocks ("C" shaped) as Sosidge described. I turn the pin block upside down to get less overall caster in the car. This gives the car more on power steering. (from Thad Garner@ HPI) Which it needs because of the flexy chassis.
Some guys run the optional 3 and 4 degree caster blocks. Should be on page 25 of your Pro-3 manual, has springs, gear ratios, and chassis tuning.
Don't use tires/inserts to reduce traction. Change the shock springs to firmer ones.This in itself will reduce traction as your go up in spring rate.
A stiffer insert will make the car more responsive and will reduce rolling resistance some.
I really liked the Front One-way in my Car this past weekend. Only thing it was raning on and off so the track was really slippery.
Don't waste money buying new shocks for the car. Even the plastic shocks work just fine. Put bladders in the shock caps instead of the foam inside the shock, but that's all that is needed.
Use the 6 deg Caster Blocks ("C" shaped) as Sosidge described. I turn the pin block upside down to get less overall caster in the car. This gives the car more on power steering. (from Thad Garner@ HPI) Which it needs because of the flexy chassis.
Some guys run the optional 3 and 4 degree caster blocks. Should be on page 25 of your Pro-3 manual, has springs, gear ratios, and chassis tuning.
Don't use tires/inserts to reduce traction. Change the shock springs to firmer ones.This in itself will reduce traction as your go up in spring rate.
A stiffer insert will make the car more responsive and will reduce rolling resistance some.
I really liked the Front One-way in my Car this past weekend. Only thing it was raning on and off so the track was really slippery.
12-02-2002, 08:19 AM
#1255
Tech Elite
Forgot about turnbuckles
lee82gx;
Replace turn buckles ONLY if you are bending them in mishaps at the track. I bought the whole set of Ti buckles for my car, but have only replaced the 2 that were bent from hacks at the track.
The turnbuckles aren't exactly cheap ($$) either.
Replace turn buckles ONLY if you are bending them in mishaps at the track. I bought the whole set of Ti buckles for my car, but have only replaced the 2 that were bent from hacks at the track.
The turnbuckles aren't exactly cheap ($$) either.
12-02-2002, 10:16 AM
#1256
picts of the current prototype used in Cleveland
http://www.team-orion.ch/live/result...d=138#hpiproto
http://www.team-orion.ch/live/result...d=138#hpiproto
Looks pretty nice
12-02-2002, 07:52 PM
#1258
Re: damn!
Originally posted by lee82gx
no wonder nobody is suggesting shocks and turnbuckles...mine is spec V not spec S.
Ok NOW should i get them or what?
no wonder nobody is suggesting shocks and turnbuckles...mine is spec V not spec S.
Ok NOW should i get them or what?
12-02-2002, 10:25 PM
#1259
NO NO
Now Im confused.spec V is lower spec or higher spec.??????
Mine is the lower spec one ,no turnbuckles and god knows less what else.
SO, what do u guys suggest now?I have ordered shock nuts and a 14T motor(supportable by my ESC) , and also the alu. spur hub.what else is recommended?
Mine is the lower spec one ,no turnbuckles and god knows less what else.
SO, what do u guys suggest now?I have ordered shock nuts and a 14T motor(supportable by my ESC) , and also the alu. spur hub.what else is recommended?
12-02-2002, 10:51 PM
#1260