Andrew is right in his reply but I prefer to just unscrew the cross brace from the chassis and un-bolt the pod plates from the bottom graphite plate. Swing every thing out of the way and feel just the movement in the bottom plate. The graphite piece should be able to move up and down very freely. Side to side should be smoooth with no notchy feel as it pivots.

If it doesn't feel right loosen the 2 screws that hold the center pivot to the chassis. The best way to set the alignment is to place the chassis and pod plate on a smooth flat surface and then tighten the the screws back up. In a pinch you can also just apply light pressure to the center pivot holder toward the rear of the car and tighten the screws. Check the pod movement again to verify that it feels right.

This pod alignment is very important to getting your car to handle right. It doesn't seem to change much after you get it right. If you have a major impact it is always a good idea to check this.

Sean
In you 1 cell lipo set-up posted, you stated no spacers behind the servo and use silver ballstuds. Is this correct and did you leave the ballstuds facing towards the rear of the car?

Thanks

rollout?
 

What rollout should i aim for?

i have a 10.5t purple roche brushless motor and will be getting a GTB 4-cell speedy running 4cell nimh batteries. Spur gear is a 72t and will be using Jaco Prisms.
We are going to be playing around with track designs on a twin tenis court size area. i guess that would make it a medium size track?
i hope this is enough info, if someone can please help?

Thanks
Alex

I use a JR servo and drill the chassis for my own mounts. The most important thing is the steering rod angle. It needs to be straight or angled forward just a little. Use whatever combination of spacers and ball ends it takes to get the correct angle.

Does anyone sell the parts for the yokomo version of the 12r5?

yup
 

yeah rcmaket.com they have them for about 51$ with shipping i got them there great:nod:

Hey Sean Cochoran ygpm

could somebody post a picture of the car with a 1 cell lipo installed.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2427/...96e0daeb86.jpg

I've since changed to 13.5. The 17.5 is too slow for me with 1c lipo.

do you use a lipo tray?

What kinda bumper is that one? Im using the one from Parma but is smaller than that one on the picture.

A.Vazquez

No, weight limit is 730g. The car weight 731 grams with cut tires and light weight body. With new tires 742g. Took me a few packs to find a setup I like with the lighter weight but I think I about got it where it needs to be.

It's the CRC bumper (CRC3260). The body post holes are direct fit. All you will need to do is shape the bumper to fit under the body.

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...=ns&pn=CRC3260

Another option is CRC3259. It is slightly smaller and only covers the front of the chassis. I like the wide to support the entire front of the front body but it does weight a bit more.

Wow my eyes hurt after 92 pages ;)

So without drilling out the chassis for fitment etc. what is the concensus for best out of the package servo?

Diff rings?
 

Hi peoples, ive got a new 12r5 and i purchased a bunch of diff rings with it.
Ive checked the part number a number of times and i have the right part but instead of being D rings they are just plain circles.

IE. Just like this.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...625+&search=Go

Can anyone tell me what the deal is with this?

Thanks,
Martin

PS. If anyone has any build tips (things to look out for) it would be appreciated! :)

Ko and Futaba both have servos that are direct fit.
Airtronics also but I heard that one might have been discontinued.