.050" wrench.

12r5 spinning out
 

ran my 12r5 tonight with the one cell lipo and it gave me small fits...it kept wanting to spin out coming in and out of corners...i could not drive it as aggressive as i wanted to ...anyone have any suggestions..it is a carpet surface...

Best place to start...what is your setup and tires?

DK

set up
 

.020 front springs

neg 1 camber

10 degree upper arm mount

6.15 caster

gold side spring

copper middle spring with 40wt oil center shock

side shock 30wt oil

Pink rear tires

purple fronts..

help me out someone..the car is spinning ...not as much as it was before I untweaked it...i cannot drive it aggressive coming in and out of corners..

Here are my suggestions. The front is too soft. Go to 22 springs. Use a softer center sprint maybe Olive or Blue.
Change the gold side springs to Green.

Steve Dunn
Indianapolis, IN

obi wun...
your car is too stiffly sprung for lipo (730g roar wght). go to .018 front springs and 2000 wght lube on the king pins, gold or blue center springs and go to the stock side springs or the next softer depending on how quickly you want your car to transition. I saw the Sean Cocren (sp) also had changed the side shock oil wght as well as adding spacers to the front arms btwn the arm mount and bulkhead.
E

The stock setup for the 12R5 actually works pretty well with lipo on carpet. The only changes as suggested above are softer springs upfront. Try double pink up front and white in the rear. This worked well this past winter in 13.5/17.5 with lipo.

fit?
 

Does anyone know if the calandra springs and bearing holder (rear ride height adjusters) fit the 12R5?

these are the ones i'm looking at:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tchlink:top:en

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tchlink:top:en

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tchlink:top:en

I only ask cause associated dont seem to have a set of springs that you buy as a kit and the centre springs come in pairs when i only need one of each. also the kit i have only came with the one rear ride height adjuster so i will get this set if they fit.

other than springs and ride height adjusters, is there anything else i need to buy for my new kit which it didnt come with?

thanks

I've been using some 15 year old associated rear height adjusters on my CRC and they seem to work fine.
Springs I don't know though.

Those will work just fine, pick up some side springs to. Other then that there is nothing else you will need for your kit. I do suggest some additional front springs as the stock AE springs tend to get destroyed rather quickly and you will want to have fresh ones to put in. Best of luck with your car and we are always here to help!

:)
 

You guys are great. soo much help, and i've learned heaps already by reading this oh so long thread :)

I'll order the springs from calandra (centre and side) and then get some fronts with my next tower hobbies order. I guess it would be to logical for the colour of the calandra ones to match the colour of the same weight in associated spring?

Once the cars up and running, i'll let you's know how it goes. what tires should i be getting for an asphalt track (its fairly large but i have never used another track so i wouldnt know whether it is high grip or low as i have nothing to compare it to). is there a good starting setup for asphalt using 4 cell nimh's?

heres a link to pics of the track if it helps

http://www.onroadrccarclubbunbury.org.au/Site/index.htm

OBI WUN...

Try 5 degrees caster upper mount and run less static caster . Then you could move the batteries forward also

You can also shim the tires out .030 per side and this will help as well.

You could also drop one down from copper on the center spring. If you still have problems you could also go 5 wt heavier in the side shock.

hope these options will help..

Mike Blackstock

Obi Wun

You should also check to be sure the alignment of the rear pod. Be sure that it is aligned properly with no binding. If that is not set right it can cause many frustrating handling issues.

How do you properly check the alignment of the rear pod...and by the way, big thanks to everyone helping me out with this 12r5...when I get it right i will hopefully be competitive with it ...

Disconnect the side shock and remove the side springs. Then rotate the rear pod in your hands. It should flop freely, side to side without any binding, catching, or notchiness. If it feels tight or goes from tight to free as you rotate it, you will need to check that the side links aren't tightened too much and then loosen the screws for the center pivot on the bottom of the chassis and rotate the pod until it frees up. then re-tighten the center pivot screws slowly checking that the pod stays free as you tighten.