vafactor

iTrader: (6)

on our carpet track which is fairly low bite for carpet, grey rears work great for 6 minutes but get very loose at the end of the run. it's an easy fix just by going to pink rears. they don't seem to give up on the back end of a run like the greys do. when I go to places where the grip level is higher, the greys are a good choice. but at my home track, they just won't bite for the whole 8 minutes.

Apex

iTrader: (51)

The front tires are getting softer and gaining more grip after each round. You could put new fronts on each round and that would solve the problem.
You can also clean the front tires with motor spray after each round. Spray some motor spray on a paper towel\rag and wipe the gunk off the front tires and let the tires dry. You won't feel that tacky layer anymore after it dries. Or if you have a truer you can skim the fronts slightly each round to get the gunk off the tires.

Ike

iTrader: (8)

For those of you having issues later in the race with the front tires, I'd check into compounds... I noticed at least one of you mentioned purples and I'd say that's at least part of if not all of the problem. Try double pinks if you think a little more steering will be doable or lilacs if it's a high grip track. On my link cars I've usually liked yellow rears and either pink of lilac fronts unless there is insane grip then black fronts work. I gave up on purples a while ago...

StephenSobottka

iTrader: (8)

I used blacks with alot of success on high bite.

AreCee

iTrader: (1)

Did my first run with a Tekin 13.5/RS today and right out of the box the car was spot on. All I needed to do was play with the tire sauce (and not chunk a rear tire ). The basic set up worked great with dbl pink front and magenta rear Jaco Prisms uncut on a low-medium bite track.

Great car, glad I chose it.

fire929

iTrader: (13)

What kind of servo are you running on the 12R5?

trf415ms

Question...Does the R5 front end bolt onto a L4? Or are they just too different.

Thanks

Johnny Carey

iTrader: (10)

The R5 front end uses reg 3x8mm screws to attach it to the chassis while the L4 front end used 8-32 screws.

UltegraSTI

iTrader: (20)

a rc12 with metric screws, i'm still tryin to digest that. that single cell lipo looks neat, saw 1 of those yesterday. i was fortunate that the shop didnt have a R5 in stock, cuz i prolly wouldve walked out with it.

R

well not 'walked out' with it, but paid for it 1st

Taz_S

iTrader: (5)

I still doing a that if they would have made it m4 screws with the same holes as there old front end. AE would have sold a ton of the new front ends to ever one that want to try the new front end. A 4m screws would have fid the 8/32 holes just fine.

I know i would have gotten 4 to 6 of the new AE front end if they did that.

Ffejdat

iTrader: (5)

I think the aluminum standoff in the front end would have been way too thick and heavy to have a 4mm hole in it, a shame really as I and many other people would love the new front end on other cars...

xtrememadness

iTrader: (2)

or manufacturers could start putting the new front end in there kits. and they can make a chassis conversion for existing kits i like the adjustability of the new front end and it looks stronger.

Taz_S

iTrader: (5)

Not to much, it would be a little more of work but they could have done it. It would have been a great drop in for the old front end. The 350 chevy block of pan car front ends.

Taz_S

iTrader: (5)

It a good front end but when more then 90% of the car out there came with the bolt holes for the old and DS AE front end it hard to change that.

TJames987

iTrader: (11)

how do you figure rollout or FDR for a 17.5 motor on the 12r5 car? Im guessing you just use the formula for the sedans without multiplying the internal ratio?