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Old 09-15-2008, 11:35 AM
  #526  
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Originally Posted by rezenclowd3
I got to drive my R5 for the first time yesterday and it was a blast. I run on med to med low bite asphalt and had the odd problem that it would randomly spin out. I am sure it is not setup right. I will have to do some more testing to figure out the problem. However I did have another issue that the rear end always wanted to swap ends in the corner. I tried double pink Jaco Prisms all around then used lilacs in the front, then tried lilac front and magenta rear. It SHOULD have been pushing like crazy from too little front traction and too much rear traction, however it STILL could not take corners at any decent speed. Diff was not slipping and felt VERY smooth like it should.

Running 20 wt AE oil in both dampers, and kit springs. I tried black side springs which did not help. Ride height at 4-5.5 mm as the track surface is pitted.

Where did you try running the car? I tried mine a Bending Corners and had similar issues. I felt the problem was tire related as I drove Bob and Barry's car there and they both drove very well.
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Old 09-15-2008, 11:48 AM
  #527  
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Originally Posted by rezenclowd3
I got to drive my R5 for the first time yesterday and it was a blast. I run on med to med low bite asphalt and had the odd problem that it would randomly spin out. I am sure it is not setup right. I will have to do some more testing to figure out the problem. However I did have another issue that the rear end always wanted to swap ends in the corner. I tried double pink Jaco Prisms all around then used lilacs in the front, then tried lilac front and magenta rear. It SHOULD have been pushing like crazy from too little front traction and too much rear traction, however it STILL could not take corners at any decent speed. Diff was not slipping and felt VERY smooth like it should.

Running 20 wt AE oil in both dampers, and kit springs. I tried black side springs which did not help. Ride height at 4-5.5 mm as the track surface is pitted.
Would it want to swap ends on throttle or off throttle? If on throttle, most likely you're spinning the wheels and losing traction causing the rear wheels to slide around under power. And if the surface was untreated without any VHT, then this will be even more prone to happen. Remember, the brushless motors spool up real quick. I would try playing around with your speed control settings and set it for looser conditions or changing your throttle curve to apply throttle slower at the low end.
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Old 09-15-2008, 11:59 AM
  #528  
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Originally Posted by David Galdo
http://www.precisionracingsystems.com/default2.aspx is where you can get a 76 tooth spur for running tall gears with a 17.5. I am normally using 40-45 tooth pinions. At my track we play with a 75 to 80 rollout.
Hello David,
Is this the spurs for 12R5? Small Spurs (Precision Racing Systems), just want to make sure before I make orders Also, what spurs do you usually stock up for 13.5 10.5 and mod?
Thank you very for your help!

Also, what rollout do you or anyone here start for a 10.5? Thank you!
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Old 09-15-2008, 12:35 PM
  #529  
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Sean, I ran the R5 at the Camarillo Roadrunners track, you might have heard of it as a small group from there travel to BCR as well sometimes.

Mach5: on AND off power it would swap ends, telling me its setup related as well. Still, with lilacs front and magentas rear, I thought it may make it more bearable. The first run I did was kit springs however .18s up front, 20wt oil, and 2 turns of preload on the side springs. That was with 2x pinks all around. It was at least drivable. I did not hit anything to cause tweak. I decided not to go back to something that worked as I need to try setups to learn the black art of pan cars.
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Old 09-15-2008, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by RC12
Hello David,
Is this the spurs for 12R5? Small Spurs (Precision Racing Systems), just want to make sure before I make orders Also, what spurs do you usually stock up for 13.5 10.5 and mod?
Thank you very for your help!

Also, what rollout do you or anyone here start for a 10.5? Thank you!
RC12, you actually have all the information. Your fellow racers can help you arrive to a suitable conclusion of what pinions and spurs to acquire. Find out what the going rollout is at your track for specific motors and make your gearing selection from that.

Keep your motor happy. Don't think you will be close to being competitive if at 120 degrees, otherwise you are a really good driver! Don't go above 160 degrees. I usually come off the track consistantly at 135 degrees or so. I could gear up but find I am competitive running a lower rollout than others.

Rollout will help you nail down your gear selection and keep you competitive as your rear tires decrease in size. It set me back on my seat when I heard we were using a high rollout, but that is what a 17.5 requires. If I can recall, I was using an 88 spur and 34 tooth pinion with a 13.5 motor.

I run on carpet, what surface are you running on and how big is your track? Have a link to any pics of the track you race on?

BTW, that is the gear I use for a 17.5 BL motor... the 76. An 80 may work. 76 is in demand so check back with them or send PRS an e-mail for more info. Great service there at PRS.
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Old 09-15-2008, 03:11 PM
  #531  
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Originally Posted by rezenclowd3
Sean, I ran the R5 at the Camarillo Roadrunners track, you might have heard of it as a small group from there travel to BCR as well sometimes.

Mach5: on AND off power it would swap ends, telling me its setup related as well. Still, with lilacs front and magentas rear, I thought it may make it more bearable. The first run I did was kit springs however .18s up front, 20wt oil, and 2 turns of preload on the side springs. That was with 2x pinks all around. It was at least drivable. I did not hit anything to cause tweak. I decided not to go back to something that worked as I need to try setups to learn the black art of pan cars.
Make the rear track as narrow as you can get it. Make the front track as wide as you can make it. Use 22 front springs, or even 24 and an olive shock spring. Put in as much static caster as possible. (All of the shims in the rear) Do not use any preload on the side springs. In fact, back the springs off until there is equal gap between the side spring and the lower motor pod plate on both sides. Use pink rears and purple fronts and when you sauce the rear tires, work the traction compound into the tires and then smear a thin film of Coppertone SPF 35 on the rear tires and let it soak in the sun or use a heat gun to set. Do not put anything on the front tires. This is the set up for a track with little to no grip.

Do they prep the track at all? Blow off the dirt and then spray?
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Old 09-15-2008, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by rezenclowd3
Sean, I ran the R5 at the Camarillo Roadrunners track, you might have heard of it as a small group from there travel to BCR as well sometimes.

Mach5: on AND off power it would swap ends, telling me its setup related as well. Still, with lilacs front and magentas rear, I thought it may make it more bearable. The first run I did was kit springs however .18s up front, 20wt oil, and 2 turns of preload on the side springs. That was with 2x pinks all around. It was at least drivable. I did not hit anything to cause tweak. I decided not to go back to something that worked as I need to try setups to learn the black art of pan cars.
Double check the pod links and how tight you have the screws on the links. Being new to 1/12th scale one of the build mistakes I made was to have these screw too tight. The ball would move but it was not free. No matter how soft I made the rear of the car I would still spin the wheels or just swap ends on or off throttle. Also, on medium bite asphalt we were running Jaco black or purple fronts and pink rears. When the traction came up after sealer was put down it was dbl pinks all around.
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Old 09-15-2008, 08:40 PM
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Crashby and Mkdut, thanks for the info, Ill look into what you guys said next time I am out in 2 weeks. The track is blown off and pressure washed the day before, and the day of, blown off, and sprayed with grape soda. Sometimes it is reapplied before the mains.

Mkdut: when the car did work decently well, the side springs were preloaded 2 turns with the stock silver springs. I tried black with 1 turn preload and then again silver with 1 turn. I am thinking it is possible the front .18 springs collapsed from me toying with the car too much before running it:rolleyes

Edit: Interestingly enough, I am unable to have a gap on the side springs. If I have the chassis on a flat setup board and install the springs and unscrew them to the top of the brace, they still just touch the side link. It was NOT this way when I assmebled the chassis. Oddly enough, I don't see why unless I stretched the springs accidentally when removing them. I was quite careful to remove the side springs....

Last edited by rezenclowd3; 09-15-2008 at 08:56 PM.
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Old 09-15-2008, 09:11 PM
  #534  
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What tire additives do you use to run on carpet?
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Old 09-15-2008, 11:07 PM
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Originally Posted by David Galdo
RC12, you actually have all the information. Your fellow racers can help you arrive to a suitable conclusion of what pinions and spurs to acquire. Find out what the going rollout is at your track for specific motors and make your gearing selection from that.

Keep your motor happy. Don't think you will be close to being competitive if at 120 degrees, otherwise you are a really good driver! Don't go above 160 degrees. I usually come off the track consistantly at 135 degrees or so. I could gear up but find I am competitive running a lower rollout than others.

Rollout will help you nail down your gear selection and keep you competitive as your rear tires decrease in size. It set me back on my seat when I heard we were using a high rollout, but that is what a 17.5 requires. If I can recall, I was using an 88 spur and 34 tooth pinion with a 13.5 motor.

I run on carpet, what surface are you running on and how big is your track? Have a link to any pics of the track you race on?

BTW, that is the gear I use for a 17.5 BL motor... the 76. An 80 may work. 76 is in demand so check back with them or send PRS an e-mail for more info. Great service there at PRS.
Hey David,
Thanks for taking time replying...Unfortunately, I really don't have the information to get from other racers as we are just starting 12scale here. We are about 6-8racers who are all starting. Mostly have 12L3s.

Our track in an indoor asphalt with mid-high bite traction. Back straight is about 100ft. I can't find a picture of the track but have sourced out a video... Nicolas from Singapore with Masaaki Hirosaka visiting us for a race.

Will try to contact PRS about the spur gears and hopefully can get some in for the guys too.

I guess I'll have to start with 55-60mm rollout with my 13.5 and may 45-50mm rollout with 10.5? Not sure guess I have to play with rollout and check temps every run?
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Old 09-16-2008, 07:13 AM
  #536  
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RC12:: Indoor asphalt! I hate you now. I miss asphalt badly! That is an awesome track.

You are spot on with your rollouts for 13.5 and 10.5. Your track is flowing allowing you to gear couple teeth more than I could on a tighter carpet track.

Yes, keep your motor temp down or you risk overheating.

I miss asphalt!
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Old 09-16-2008, 10:24 AM
  #537  
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Originally Posted by David Galdo
RC12:: Indoor asphalt! I hate you now. I miss asphalt badly! That is an awesome track.

You are spot on with your rollouts for 13.5 and 10.5. Your track is flowing allowing you to gear couple teeth more than I could on a tighter carpet track.

Yes, keep your motor temp down or you risk overheating.

I miss asphalt!
Come over and we can do some indoor asphalt racin

Just curious, does the truer nitro guys use with there 1/10 nitro touring can fit 1/12 foam tires to true or need some other truer or adapter?

Thanks again!
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Old 09-16-2008, 10:26 AM
  #538  
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You need a 12th tire truer arbor. Hudy is considered to be the best. However some say it does not work the best for the Jaco Prisms. It seems to work fine for mine...
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Old 09-16-2008, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by rezenclowd3
You need a 12th tire truer arbor. Hudy is considered to be the best. However some say it does not work the best for the Jaco Prisms. It seems to work fine for mine...
Thank you!!

Last edited by RC12; 09-16-2008 at 11:25 AM.
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Old 09-16-2008, 11:14 AM
  #540  
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#102374 WA-CB 1/12 Scale Universal (Except Corally)
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