johnbull

Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.

STLNLST. I have just recently fitted the TC2, having used a Mk 1 Cyclone then a TC. If I'm not imagining I am finding the TC2 much smoother throughout the range. I also agree with your findings on LRP. The trend seems the same here.

Whilst the on-off switch integrated with the set up buttom is a nice touch, I don't really use it. I have seen so many guys being wiped out of races because of switch problems, with switches getting unglued and draggingon the ground, or even switches being broken in impacts, even switches being turned off in impacts, that the first thing we normally do is remove the switch, bypassing it internally. So I am so used to simply disconnecting one of the battery leads that I tend to forget the switch. But this idea in the TC2 is neat.

Set up is exactly the same as the older Cyclones, except that you can now switch the speedo on or off by simply blipping the button. I like the big cap supplied too. I run mine on programme 1.

I have discussed the TC2 with Charlie from Novak on their Orange Room Forum and he gives some very good tips. Worth a scroll.

Finally I have just installed a TC2 on my son's TC3. I'll let you know what he thinks of it after tomorrow's meeting.....if it happens for the weather seems very uncooperative at the moment.

Regards

Joe from not so sunny Malta.

WailinOnYa

iTrader: (4)

This 2002 Keyence model you guys are talking about, what designates it as being different than the regular Zero V Extreme? Is it called the zero v extreme 2002 and what if any thing is better about it or has changed. The one I purchased has a heatsink included, I have not yet felt the need for this though but I have yet to run it in hot weather. My Zero V Extreme didn't get very hot at all when I used it but it was also during fall I believe when I ran it. So far I really like it! More functions than an R2D2 unit, lol.
Viper1: What magazine did you see this article?

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

johnbull- Keep me posted on how it turns out. I'm headed out there door pretty soon here to go to the track. I have alot of testing to do today. I have to get ready for the Carpet nats at the end of March.

viper1

Hi guys,

The magazine is R/C Car. If you do not want to play around with the settings so much. Then you can use the 3 pre-set modes.

I can't attach the setting file here please email me at [email protected].

Cheers

imataquito

ok vip ty for the setting sheet and the instructions
i think i know how to set it up now ....:-) preety easy actually ...
LOL
its been reaining and stopping and raining again outside so we never got the fully test the car yet we did try testing it for a short run when the road was dry
we used the setting for 23 turn on a 23 turn yok stocker
hehe i must say its a small speedo with the looks on the car but sadly i must say its not as punchy as i would want it to be but it was ok ..
goint to do further test after reseting some options ... will post further updates here

did u realize that sometimes it takes a while for the speedo to reconaise the input to change the option screen after a trail run ??? or maybe my fingers are too big for the buttons ... LOL

johnbull

Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.

STLNST. Since our last bit, we have had 2 race meetings in which both son Josh and I have run our cars with the Novak Cyclone TC2 speedos.

I gave you my findings earlier, namely smoother pick up without being lazy, and consequently easier to drive.

Without any hints from me, Josh told me that he too had found the car so much easier to drive. In fact he has won all the last 4 rounds of the Nat championships since fitting the TC2. It seems to produce bags of punch, probably thanks to the big cap, without making the car twitchy on acceleration. Certainly, off the line, my car and his are always way quicker than the rest - it's just that I can't keep my thumbs doing the right things long enough - he can.

Another great thing is that at the end of a 5 minute race in warm conditions, the speedo isn't even warm, and that's without any heat sinks.

I certainly recommend it. Like you say, it may not be small, but I'd rather have the Cyclone's size than the LRP's unreliability.

regards

Joe from sunny Malta.

viper1

You can reduce the drive frequency and the min drive % this will increase your punch.

Cheers

The sheet was just a guide recomended as a starting point.

Have Fun.......

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

johnbull- Thanks for the update. I have one last question....does the TC2 have a turbo start mode like the LRP? With the LRP if you hold the brake for a certain amount of time on the starting grid you get full punch off of the line with the first trigger pull. It's always nice to try and get the whole shot.

johnbull

STLNLST, I don't think the TC2 has this option, though I can't vouch for it. I suggest you ask Charlie on the teamnovak.com site. Get into the Orangeroom, which is their forum, and simply ask Charlie. he is most helpful. If he can't answer that one I am sure nobody can.

But getting back to the turbo start, I suppose that in stock racing this would be a real advantage but in mod it's difficult enough taking it off the line squarely without any additional gizmos.

We had alot of trouble early in the season with Josh's TC3 with getting off the line cleanly. We played with diffs, softening and tightening till we got it right, and I also have this problem with the MR4occasionally. If I'm not absolutely straight it's all over the place as soon as I power off the line.

Ye, get onto Charlie, you'll find him very interesting.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.

Yorkie

STLNLST,

I agree with Johnbull on the reliability and performance of the Cyclones. Might not be small but they are bulletproof.

With the turbo start, most top end radio sets have this facility in some guise or other. I have it on mine but never use it as it feels too wierd. You seem to set off like a rocket and your trying to get the car under control instead of thinking about the first corner.

Yorkie

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

Yorkie/johnbull- The LRP's turbo start have been great for us out here (Sacramento) in both mod and stock. I don't use it in mod when I'm on the pole or in the 2nd position. I always gain 1-2 positions by the first turn when using this mode. To me it's better used in stock racing.

jonbull- I would think that you would have to make sure that the rear end is hooked up rather than adjusting the diffs...unless the punch was too great for the surface you were running on. Maybe another week or two and I'll buy mine. If I didn't plan on running two classes at the carpet nats I would have had the extra cash to spare. Bottom line........I'M GETTING A TC2 I do appreciate all of your helpful info.

imataquito

RAIN RAIN go AWAY !!!!!!! LOL
still cant test it .... today ... but i did change some settings for better punch ... hope it works out well
here's some things about it - haven tested

d_po 20
b_po 20
nubr 0
f_br off
d_fr 0.3
b_fr 5
nbfr 4
po_l 100
dash ??????

i still dont undersand what some of this settings does ... like the
neutral brake and neutral braking frequency and the neutral width

how do i know if the dash mode is on or off .... can i set a timer to the dash function ?? like say 2 secs on 1/2 punch and then full punch ? - like the GMv12

TY again

Dave S

Hello from the great not-so-white north,

I was wondering if anyone else has had problems with a Quantum Competition model from LRP. I bought it as a backup for the 'ol g-10 I normally use, so I thought I'd throw it in to get familiar with setting it up and such. I followed the directions to the letter, put the worlds options kit on it (big cap, heat sink) because this is for my 1/12 scale, and it will not go into the setup mode and it has absolutely no mid-range as far as throttle goes. It's either full throttle or full brake. I use a KO propo EX-1 Mars radio and receiver, and run a P2k pro or a green machine 3 tweaked by Fantom. I think I got a bum steer right out of the box, but I have heard of others where I race saying that some have a defective board. Just curious if anyone else has run into this problem and spent a bunch of coin on something that doesn't work.

johnbull

Dave S. Try Novak.

Corse-R

Dave:

I have the same setup: KO EX-1 Mars, 1/12 & Quantum with Worlds kit. First of all, you need to have some kind of radio setup before adjusting the ESC.

This is are the settings of my EX-1 related to throttle:

TH:SPD.P L-> 100
TH: SPEED OFF L100
TH: PUNCH F 0%
TH: CURVE F -45%
TH:BRAKE B 150%
TH:HiPOT H150

Rather than messing with the adjustments when changing the ESC, use a memory for the 1/12+Quantum and other for the 1/12+G9.

A word of caution: When you setup for the first time the Quantum put at default all the throttle settings (I don't know on what sys level you have your Mars, mine is at 3). If you want more progression to your throttle the adjustment you need to use is those I marked on bold. A more negative value gives you more medium throttle sensitivity. With a very low traction y use values up to -60% but normally I use from -15% to -45%.